Cleveland Magazine

No Snow? No Worries

2012-01-27T15:27:00.006-05:00

Winter, oh winter, where are you? Snow has been scarce this season, umbrellas and rain boots commonplace. Still, our "Explore Winter" package from December 2010 is full of ideas for winter activities that won’t be hindered by the lack of powder.

The Cleveland Metroparks Chalet toboggan chutes give daredevils a wild ride, with maximum speeds reaching 45 miles per hour. You don’t have to be at Cedar Point to feel the rush of a 66-foot vertical drop.

If speeding face-first down a steep slope isn’t your style, you can fill your travel mug with hot chocolate, perhaps bundle up in your favorite blanket and enjoy the countryside from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. With Valentine’s Day fast approaching, this makes for a great date.

Ever thought about channeling your inner Michelle Kwan (or Wayne Gretzky, your choice)? If the feeling strikes, you can visit one of Cleveland’s outdoor skating rinks. What you may remember as a childhood hobby takes on an exciting twist once you hit adulthood — and no, it’s not like riding a bike.

Even Mother Nature needs a little assistance sometimes, and if snow isn’t falling from the sky, local ski resorts will create their own. The only catch? A minimum temperature of around 28 degrees is required at the time of production. The Boston Mills/Brandywine snow report shows both resorts are fully functioning tonight, so don’t hesitate if you get the urge to grab your skis or snowboard and hit the slopes.

OK, this last one is slightly contingent on snow, but the second snow does fall, you may want to grab a sled that best suites your style (classic wood, modern, tube, saucer, or something completely MacGyvered) and hit one of the many sledding hills that dot Cleveland.

Minnillo and Mytro Making Magic at Flour

2012-01-25T06:00:00.004-05:00

Like the perfect couple, Paul Minnillo and Matt Mytro bring out the best in each other. The two chefs discovered they have great chemistry in the kitchen when Paul hired the younger guy last fall to fill the exec chef spot at Flour, his 9-month-old Moreland Hills restaurant. Evidence for what a good match-up this has proven to be is on the plates they’re sending out. Since the pair started cooking up a storm together, the hours have been extended to include lunch service, and I finally got there last week to sample some of what the new midday winter menu has to offer. If you’re short of time and don’t intend to read all the following paragraphs, let me give you the nutshell summary: Hurry up and go! The food’s marvelous.

The gray day was considerably brighter after the cara cara citrus salad arrived at the table. The mix of juicy red tinged slices of orange, slivers of white fennel and bright green pea tendrils dressed in a smoked tomato vinaigrette tasted as good as it looked. Same with a small skillet of sweet, meaty chorizo-stuffed dates wrapped in pancetta and surrounded by a smooth, thick roasted red pepper sauce. I loved the dried olives that dotted the chop salad and the choice of Moody blue, a delicate, lightly smoked cheese.

Manila clams and mussels are cooked in the pizza oven, and something wonderful happens to the shellfish in there. They come floating in a parmesan broth with bits of sausage and pickled fennel. It's really an outstanding dish, served with flat bread to soak up all the liquid. Another excellent and season-hearty dish is the Calabrian stew, made with Italian sausage, perfectly tender white beans, parsnips and braised pork shoulder. A paste made from Calabrian chiles, a small spicy pepper from the region, gives a slight and welcome bit of kick.

And then there are the paninis: warm sandwiches that are elevated to something extra special because of what goes into them. Pickled red onions interact deliciously with Minnillo’s sausage and smoked mozzarella. Italian mustard is a nice touch with the housemade mortadella.

But the version that truly had me sighing with pleasure was one made with shredded short ribs. They’re slow simmered, Mytro told me, in chocolate milk (really). He explained that the sugars caramelize as it tenderizes the meat. The result is ridiculously good. Then they tuck it between slices of toasted bread with pancetta, a fried egg and arugula. Bites. Of. Bliss.

I'm happy to report that for those unlikely to visit the restaurant during the day, a number of these items also make an appearance on the dinner menu. But some, like the paninis are lunch-only options. My advice: Take a sick day. It's not a lie. Because no doubt you'll leave Flour feeling much better than when you arrived.
photos by Lisa Minnillo

MOCA's Last Hurrah on Carnegie Avenue

2012-01-20T13:49:00.008-05:00

The end is near for the Museum of Contemporary Art Cleveland – well, at least for the museum’s current location.

MOCA reflects on its impending move from 8501 Carnegie Ave. to 11400 Euclid Ave. with its last exhibition, 8501 to 11400 (On Moving). The exhibition's opening night celebration, tonight from 7 to 9 p.m., debuts work from regional artists Corrie Slawson, Brandon Juhsz and Ben Kinsley, all of it exploring their perspectives and philosophies about moving.

Kinsley, known for his playful and engaging site-specific performances, has engaged two actors to play street preachers. One actor will stand outside at MOCA’s current location and announce, “The end is nigh!” while the other, in University Circle near the construction site, will proclaim “A new beginning is imminent!”

The actors debut the performance tonight and will appear on the street 12:30-1:30 p.m. every Sunday through March 24. They’ll distribute hand-written brochures to witnesses on the street that will contain testimonials about MOCA from visitors but never actually name the museum itself. Sound recordings of this quirky scene will play through the speakers in the exhibition space.

Slawson’s work explores the move through screen prints that mirror the streets and landscapes of MOCA’s current and future locations. A screen-printed mural on a glass partition depicts an evolving streetscape that viewers can walk along.

Juhsz is known for recreating and reshaping ideas by manipulating digital images into surreal artwork and then photographing them. His eye-catching work explores the theme of a moving transition, reflecting a balance between architecture and nature.

During the exhibit, a board on the wall will invite guests to share memories and moments of inspiration from MOCA’s old space.

“Guests can share what they like about MOCA and what they look forward to at the brand-new gallery,” says marketing and design director Tom Poole.

The exhibit will run until March 31, when MOCA shuts its doors for the move. It’ll reopen in early October at its new location.

Cheering for Team Sawyer

2012-01-18T06:00:00.001-05:00

Chef Jonathon Sawyer is ambitious in a good way. He’s always got something new going on, striving to advance his reputation, build his career and get people in the doors of his two restaurants, Greenhouse Tavern and Noodlecat. And he’s committed to bringing the whole city with him into the spotlight.

That’s why he organized a tweetup to coincide with his appearance as a competitor on Iron Chef America Jan. 22 at 10 p.m. Instead of a simple watch party, attendees are being asked to tweet about the action. The idea is to turn Sawyer into a trending topic on Twitter with Cleveland coming along for the coast-to-coast promotional ride. The free event to be held at Greenhouse Tavern booked-up fast, so another one was offered at Noodlecat. There’s no space left for this one either. But that doesn’t mean you can’t be part of the experience. Invite friends over. Get takeout from either place or make something wonderful to eat while watching and tweeting (use the hashtag #teamsawyer) at home. Pop corn, toss with melted butter, salt and Parmesan and just enjoy the show, without worry about greasy fingers.

The culinary cook-off pits Sawyer against Geoffrey Zakarian, winner of The Next Iron Chef Season 4. The gray-haired contender, who heads up multiple dining establishments in New York City, Miami and Atlantic City, looks more like a natty businessmen than a stove jockey. And he definitely had his work cut out for him going up against the Cleveland team, which included Sawyer’s talented right- and left-hand guys, Jonathan Seeholzer and Brian Goodman.

Abiding by his ironclad contract, Sawyer isn't breathing a word about the secret ingredient or the final outcome of his Food Network battle, but he still has plenty he can say.

“It was hard to portray the entirety of the Tavern style in just five courses,” he says. “There was so much we wanted to do, but we only had an hour and had to keep it simple. Even so, I am absolutely pleased with the food we produced and how it defined us and the restaurant.”

And, the chef continues, it should be big fun to watch.

“We were super entertaining, loud, laughing and enjoying ourselves in the kitchen just like we always do," he says. “I hope that comes across to the viewers.”

Noting that he’s been in the hot seat before as an assistant when Michael Symon took on the challenge, he adds, “It is awesome and humbling to be the actual competitor instead of the sous chef.”

Another thing Sawyer’s doing for his hometown’s dining scene is hosting pop-ups. He’s using his national connections to bring in really great chefs from other cities to cook in his kitchen and making room for locals to shine too. Three of these one-night-only experiences are scheduled for January and February at Noodlecat: Lee Anne Wong returns to prepare a lunar new year feast on Jan. 21; Fresh Street of Columbus makes Japanese street food on Feb. 2; and Cory Barrett, a trained pastry chef now serving as executive chef at Lola does desserts on Feb. 13. Reservations for Bricks and Mortar Pop-Ups required.

Fresh Brewed Tees Catches Tebow Fever

2012-01-13T12:34:00.000-05:00

Fresh Brewed Tees has entered a partnership with the NFL Players Association that allows the Cleveland company to produce apparel featuring the league's players. Founder and CEO Tony Madalone announced the agreement earlier this week and marked the occasion with the release of a "Tebow Time" T-shirt ($22).

The process of getting the NFLPA license took more than two months but was expedited by Fresh Brewed Tees' past experience working with Browns players such as Joe Haden, T.J. Ward and Josh Cribbs, according to Madalone

"Our history of working with these players and probably a dozen others around the league in some capacity, along with the credibility of being introduced through an agent, allowed us to move forward quicker," he says.

The choice of Tim Tebow should come as no surprise following the Denver Broncos' surprising upset win over the Pittsburgh Steelers last weekend.

"He was just named America's most popular athlete by ESPN, and broke the Twitter mentions-per-second record," Madalone says. "He's a big name right now."

The Tebow shirt will be followed by others, likely big-name NFL stars such as Drew Brees and Aaron Rodgers, but Madalone can't get into all the details yet.

"We're working on some stuff I can't disclose right now," he says. "But we're definitely interested."

Mondays with Moxie

2012-01-11T06:00:00.005-05:00

Jan. 9 was the first Pizza Monday at Moxie in Beachwood. The new wood-burning oven was fired up and turning out wonderful pies. I was there to try them at the kickoff for this once-a-week-only special. Right now, there are three versions: a classic red white and green Margherita with fresh mozzarella, tomato, Romano and basil; the Funghi made with oyster mushrooms from Killbuck Valley farm, Fontina and a toss of aurugla after it's baked; and a Calabrese topped with slices of spicy salami, fresh mozzarella, tomato, basil and slivers of garlic. Don’t ask me to name a favorite because I thought all were superb. photo courtesy of of Michael McElroy

Executive chef Jonathan Bennett and his crew are making hand-shaped, Neapolitan-style rounds, each one beautiful in its irregularity. The crust is really outstanding — thin on the bottom, puffy at the edges, with the right crisp to chewy ratio. Charring, a characteristic of wood-fire baking (Bennnett calls it "leopardness" for the pattern of dark spotting) adds a dark, smoky note. Long-fermenting dough is one of his secrets. Another is a lot of trial and error. A pleasant tempered perfectionist, Bennett admitted to me that he’d spent the month of December experimenting to get every detail right.

“When you’re working with just a handful of simple ingredients, every little thing, every step matters,” he says. In addition, he got schooled in the craft at an intensive, four-day training course taught by certified experts with the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana in Marina del Rey, Calif., where he did nothing but make pizza for 8 to 9 hours each day.

I also had a great, not-your-usual salad composed of juicy marinated grapes, frisee, walnuts and sheep milk feta, and a bowl of heavenly warmed olives. I sampled the meatballs small plate too, not because I needed more food, but because I needed to taste them. Verdict: delicious. I discovered that dipping the thicker pieces of the pizza rim into the red sauce they come in is an excellent idea.

Another incentive to show up here at the start of the work week is that all bottles of wine less than $100 are half price on Mondays. It’s an incredible deal. The server helped me select the terrific Tikal Amorio malbec from Argentina that normally sells for $64.

With the Monday options of pizza and bargain vino, Moxie has managed to redefine when the weekend begins and ends. You might also want to come in on Thursday, Jan. 19. The restaurant is having a whiskey dinner featuring five courses paired with brown spirits from Ireland, Scotland, Kentucky and Tennessee. $65 per person plus tax and gratuity. Reservations required, 216-831-5599 or here.

Remembering Mary Zunt

2012-01-10T13:39:00.001-05:00

The magazine cover is one of our favorites around here: Cleveland councilwoman Mary Zunt clad in an orange coat and hat, and holding a huge cigar. "Women Who Could Be Your Boss," shouted the March 1974 issue's main cover headline.

"People back then were shocked by my photo because they thought I looked outrageous," Zunt recalled with a laugh when we talked to her for our December 2007 35th anniversary issue. "I had to negotiate that shot with the powers that be at Cleveland Magazine. They wanted me to wear a Bunce Brothers suit, a fedora and smoke a cigar, but I said 'no' to the suit and hat. I didn't want to appear too manly."

Zunt died Jan. 6 in a hospital near her California home at the age of 72 (read The Plain Dealer's obituary).

She may be best remembered for her time at City Hall, but she also helped establish PBS channel WVIZ, started a construction company, studied wine-making in France, cooked at a monastery and helped migrant farm workers in California.

As a young woman, she also just happened to crash the inauguration of John F. Kennedy with Mary Rose Oakar. Zunt recounted that story in the pages of our November 2008 issue.

"The best way, we figured, was to attach ourselves to those who were invited," Zunt said. "Mary Rose walked in through the hotel kitchen on the arm of a Navy violinist, and I followed a Kennedy family member from the front entrance unnoticed. While the Navy band played 'Hail to the Chief,' we stood three feet from Jackie Kennedy, JFK, Lady Bird and LBJ, all in evening attire for Frank Sinatra's gala that night at the Armory."

In addition to Zunt's exemplary public achievements, she also raised four children as a single mom.

"It's been a wonderful life," she told us in 2007. "I'm delighted that our daughters have so many choices today, but I hope they appreciate what a tough road it was for us. Many men didn't like us back then — and even a lot of women — but we're here now and we're not going away."

Novelist Thrity Umrigar Kicks Off Book Tour in Lakewood Tonight

2012-01-05T11:10:00.001-05:00

Cleveland author Thrity Umrigar appears at Rozi’s Wine House in Lakewood tonight, one of five local appearances she's making to promote her new novel, The World We Found.

The novel, released Tuesday, bridges her two disparate worlds: contemporary America and the India she knew in her youth.

Born in Bombay, Umrigar grew up in a home where books and flowers were considered indulgences.

“Every time I brought fresh flowers home, I would get a lecture on saving my money, not wasting it,” she tells Stuart Warner in "Life In Motion," Warner's profile of Umrigar in the January issue of Cleveland Magazine.

In 1983, Thrity Umrigar left her family and flew to the United States. Inspired by Joan Baez’s doleful song “Banks of the Ohio,” she headed to Ohio State University, where she received her masters in journalism. Umrigar turned to writing novels after writing for newspapers for nearly 20 years.

“There were things I wanted to say, worlds I wanted to describe, people I wanted to memorialize," she tells Warner. “None of that was possible in journalism.” Her second book, The Space Between Us, became an international hit.

The World We Found tells the story of four Indian women who grew apart 30 years ago. In their youth, they wanted to change the world, but life took them away from their youthful idealism. One made the bold decision to marry a Muslim, who became a conservative fundamentalist after. Another moved to America. Diagnosed with an inoperable brain tumor, she invites her friends to the U.S. in hopes of a reunion.

Thrity Umrigar will also be signing her book at the Woodmere Barnes and Noble (28801 Chagrin Blvd.) January 10 at 7 pm, the Hudson Library (96 Library Street) January 12 at 7 pm, the Berea branch of the Cuyahoga County Public Library (7 Berea Commons) January 14 at 2 pm, and the Coventry Village Library (1925 Coventry Road, Cleveland Heights) February 1 at 7 pm.

Tonight’s event at Rozi’s Wine House, 14900 Detroit Avenue in Lakewood, is a benefit for the Lakewood Public Library. Tickets, $35, can be purchased online or at the door.

Something Southern on the West Side

2012-01-04T06:00:00.004-05:00

We had a birthday to celebrate last week so the husband and I decided to take our son and daughter-in-law to SoHo Kitchen and Bar. The new Ohio City spot with the Southern accent has only been open since Nov. 17, and this was a first visit for us all. Definitely won’t be the last.

(By the way: it might seem to some that I write about this neighborhood often. Don't blame me. I'm not showing favoritism. It's just that so much has been happening in the area around the West Side Market lately. The district has become one of our most exciting dining destinations on either side of the river.)

Since toasts were on the agenda, drinks were essential. SoHo has an intriguing list of specialty cocktails. The only problem was choosing … and then convincing everyone else to give me a taste. On the table were the most excellent and seriously strong Corpus Christi made with moonshine (white unaged whiskey), tomato water, lime and hot sauce, topped with pickled veggies on stick and a salted rim; the fruity Coral Gables, mix of tequila, passion fruit, fresh orange juice, and pomegranate grenadine (dangerously easily going down); and the Savannah with tea-infused vodka, honey lemonade and hibiscus syrup that had me thinking sunshine, porch swings and summer sipping. Happily, though there will be no porches or swings, there will be seating outside for about 40 when the warm (I mean really show some skin warm, not just unseasonably, leave your mittens at home mild) weather returns. The husband chose a South Carolina IPA-RJ Racker’s Bell Ringer from the great list of microbrews that’s nicely organized by type.

Every table gets fluffy buttermilk biscuits (one per person) on the house. We slathered on the sea salted honey butter and apple-berry preserves and disappeared them embarrassingly fast. Luckily, the starters we ordered to share came soon after, but we devoured them quickly too, right down to the last crumb and crumble because one bite kept leading to another. It’s hard to take it slow when stuff is this good. See for yourself: Get the Pimento Cheese Dip with fresh BBQ chips or the S'uthern Snacks, a board of artisanal cheeses, shavings of country ham, the fine Surryano American prosciutto from Edwards & Sons, with pickled pluots (apricot plum hybrid), which Chef/owner Nolan Konkoski brines in vinegar, orange juice, cinnamon and a bit of Creole mustard.

I then moved on to, and loved, his duck gumbo with shrimp andouille, okra (done perfectly, no glueyness) and rice plus crawfish and crab fritters with spicy slaw. I also sampled shrimp and grits; buttermilk-fried chicken and sweet potato waffles, sloshed in bourbon maple syrup; and a bite of catfish Po' Boy with hot pepper remoulade. Stuffed but not daunted, we shared a plate of small beignets with dark chocolate and blackberry jam and pecan pie with bourbon-brown butter ice cream.

They are currently only serving dinner Tuesday through Saturday but will be adding Sunday brunch beginning Jan. 15 and Friday and Saturday lunches later in the month. Konkoski told me he’ll be starting monthly whiskey dinners in February, most likely on Monday evenings, throughout the year. I, for one, can hardly wait for these additional opportunities to enjoy his cooking and the special Southern hospitality he and partner Molly Smith have brought to us here on the north coast.

New Year's for the Young and Young at Heart

2011-12-30T10:52:00.017-05:00

When I think of New Year’s Eve, I think of ridiculous party favors draped and strewn among drunken partygoers holding half-spilled beer and a Champagne toast to a memory that'll probably be lost by morning.

Enjoying the holiday with kids can be an alternative to the typical New Year’s celebration. Several family-friendly spots in Cleveland offer New Year’s Eve extravaganzas ranging from relaxing to adventurous to picturesque.

Great Lakes Science Center
New Year’s Eve, Eve
216-621-2400
Dec. 30, 7-11:30 p.m.
Eager holiday celebrators can enjoy the new year a night early, with a scientific twist. Visitors to downtown Cleveland’s science center can make their own supply of fake, fluffy, white snow to take home as a souvenir, watch fruitcake detonations, eat liquid nitrogen ice cream samplers, drink a ginger ale toast and see a balloon drop to end the second-to-last day of the year.
$24 per person, $20 for members

First Night Akron
330-374-7690
Dec. 31, 6 p.m.-midnight
The main streets of downtown Akron will bustle with families strolling past flame twirlers, stilt walkers, illusionists and ice sculpting specialists. Eighty artists and performance groups will appear at the event, including a Beatles tribute and Celtic music from Fergie & The Bog Dogs. Several downtown eateries will be open, including The Lockview, Spaghetti Warehouse and Cilantro Thai and Sushi. Horse-drawn sleigh rides and free Metro bus rides will take people around.
Admission buttons $10, children under 10 free

Mapleside Farms
Kids New Year’s Eve Bash, New Year’s Eve Grand Buffet
330-225-5577
Buffet 3-8 p.m., kids party 4:30-6:30 p.m.
Mapleside Farms in Brunswick has recently revamped its old-fashioned persona and is welcoming the New Year as a stylish, modern gathering place and eatery. Kids can celebrate the New Year with a toast from a fruit punch fountain in plastic champagne glasses. A buffet dinner will feature carved prime rib, walnut-crusted salmon, a salad bar and a chocolate fountain.
Party: $25, $15 for children 2-12; Buffet, $31.95, $18.95 for kids 5-12, free for kids 4 and under

Progressive Field
Snow Days
216-420-4487
Noon-1 a.m.
The Cleveland Indians’ home stays open past midnight for 2012's arrival. It’s part of the Indians’ Snow Days, which has transformed the stadium into a winter wonderland, with three ice-skating rinks and the 200-foot Batterhorn tubing hill for those in the need for speed.
Admission $5, children 2 and younger free

Cleveland Metroparks Zoo
Noon Year’s Eve
216-661-6500
10 a.m.-1 p.m.
For kids who can’t keep their eyes open until midnight, Cleveland Metroparks Zoo welcomes a pre-jamboree at the stroke of noon. The zoo’s festivities include a wild animal show, ice-sculpturing performances and animal-costumed characters greeting visitors. The 1260 AM Radio Disney Road Crew will play hits from 2011. And as the clock finally strikes noon, the Zoo’s ball will drop to ring in the New Year. Bundle up; most of the activities will be outdoors.
Free with zoo admission: $7 adults, $4 children 2-11, free for 2 and under

0 to 100 in Six Bites

2011-12-28T06:00:00.002-05:00

I don’t eat fast food. If I munch on junk, it's because I don’t have time for a sit-down meal or there’s nothing better available, I’m always sorry afterward. I like to get my nutrition in the form of real food, well-prepared and minimally processed. But sometimes life makes that difficult. Good Greens has a solution: an energy bar. So what, you say. There are plenty of energy bars out there to choose from. But this one has three reasons to recommend it.

They are made in a factory in Girard, Ohio, by Purus Health, a company with offices in Launch House, a business incubator in Shaker Heights. Supporting local enterprises, especially small startups, is important. Basically, buying these power bars energizes your body and the regional economy.

The nutrient profile on this product is pretty amazing, especially given its iPod-like dimensions. Each bar measures only 4 inches by 1.5 inches and is about 1/2 inch thick but contains 10-12 grams of protein and 100 percent of the daily recommended amount of fruits and vegetables, which deliver a bounty of vitamins and antioxidants. They’re low on the glycemic index, gluten fre and vegan. No trans fats but lots of fiber and probiotics. The secret is a patented powder (also available for purchase and used in smoothies at Liquid Planet) that has more stuff in it than most people’s pantry and fridge combined: 52 ingredients to be precise. Sort of like nano-technology applied to food.

And lastly, they taste pretty good. Sunflower seed paste holds everything together. It has a nice nutty flavor and contributes to a soft chewy texture. Three of the four flavors (raspberry, coconut and peanut) are covered in chocolate (can’t go wrong there, and in fact the one version without it, wildberry, does seem lacking compared to the others). There’s a slight grittiness I’m not crazy about in all of them and a little palate coating effect that bugs me, but these are tolerable considering the payoff: something I can eat on the run that seems like dessert, quells hunger and is actually good for me. The regular Good Greens bars are soy based, but there is another kind made with brown rice that I have not tried. I was told two new flavors are in the works. The bars are available at Marcs, Heinens, Mustard Seed Markets and Murray Hill Market. You can order them online from Amazon, too, or the company’s website. Prices vary, generally between $2 and $3 each. Seems like a good investment to me.

Gordon Square District Goings-On

2011-12-21T06:00:00.002-05:00

The husband and I decided to start off our evening with a stop at Happy Dog last Friday night. We parked across Detroit, on West 58th Street and noticed lights on inside Spice Kitchen and Bar, the soon-to-open restaurant on the corner. I went up close for a look and spotted Ben Bebenroth, chef and owner, hard at work. He put down his paintbrush to unlock the door for us.

With his dad’s help, he was just about done applying the final coats of taupe, beige and white to the once candy-colored walls. They were putting in some extra after dark hours because the pressure’s on to ready the place for a special New Year’s Eve Preview Pop-Up Dinner. There will be two seatings for the five-course prix fixe menu. Four Bells Sparkling will be on tap for the event, just one of the festive beverages available.

Bebenroth, and his food, have quite the following, so tickets have been selling fast. But as of five nights ago, there were still some spots available. Call 216-432-9090 for prepaid reservations.

Then he’s closing to finish the makeover and organize the staff, but only briefly if all goes according to plan (does it ever?), the restaurant should be completely ready and serving meals Tuesday through Saturday toward the end of the second week in January.

It was nice chatting with Ben, but we were hungry, so we headed on to Happy Dog. The bar was wall to wall people, a rowdy crowd gathered to enjoy the particular peculiar pleasure of DJ Kishka and his annual Christmas show (he does his thing there monthly). I was in need of food, not polka tunes, and I feared the servers would never find us in the bouncing boozing mob. Luckily there was an alternative close at hand: Underdog.

The proprietors of the tavern cleaned and remodeled the basement, turning it into another seating area and underground playroom for grown-ups. It’s been open just a couple of months. A long shuffleboard runs parallel to the bar. There are three old-fashioned pinball machines and a large screen for cartoons. On Thursdays only, a limited number of burgers, 24 to be exact, are offered on a first-come, first-serve basis. The rest of the time, it’s the same menu as upstairs: hot dogs and your choice of 50 toppings (as many as you want) that run the gamut from traditional (house-made ketchup, dill pickle and baked beans) and ethnically eclectic (Brazilian chimichurri, Korean kim chee, and Thai chile and garlic sauce), to gourmet (Brie, black truffle honey mustard and wasabi aioli) and kind of out there (chunky peanut butter, caramel applesauce and chipotle hollandaise).

I was restrained, choosing a modest three, and relatively conventional in my selections (Guinness sauerkraut, caramelized onions and barbecue sauce) and very happy with the result. I washed it down with a cold Shiner Bock. The husband ventured into more creative territory with Oaxacan red chile and chocolate mole. An order of tater tots arrived and disappeared in short order too.

We ate, we drank, we ran into people we know and were glad we’d decided to cross the river and make a visit to one of Cleveland’s coolest up and coming neighborhoods.

Something Sweet

2011-12-14T06:00:00.006-05:00

I dropped in at Bonbon Pastry and Café last week for the first time and was thoroughly charmed. It’s a lovely place for breakfast (and brunch) any time of day or night, from early in the morning until long after dark. The corner spot on Lorain and West 26th Street with two walls of big windows just opened about a month ago, but it feels like it’s been there for a hundred years. The look is modern with touches of 19th century Parisian patisserie: a marble countertop with pastries displayed under glass “bells,” wooden tables with ornate old-fashioned metal pedestals, church pew seating along one side of the room.

Courtney Bonning is the woman behind this new addition to the burgeoning Ohio City culinary district, relocating her business (started in 2009 and formerly known as Bonbon Bake Shop) from the Detroit Shoreway neighborhood. She’s a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America’s Baking and pastry program and is famous around these parts for competing and winning in the Food Network’s Cupcake Wars last summer with teammate Becca Ritterspach, now her bakery manager.

You can get coffee in all its variations and muffins, scones or croissants to go, or settle in for a leisurely meal of chocolate French toast, cinnamon pancakes or herbed omelette. There’s also a burger, a wrap, a couple of salads and a few heartier entrees, plus a luscious lineup of dessert options. I was on my way to drinks and dinner and couldn’t indulge in a serious tasting but couldn’t resist a mug of warm cider and fig bar, made with am excellent shortbread crust and dense fruit filling. I noticed two long shelves of wine and martini glasses, reinforcing the message, on the menu and repeated to me by Courtney, that a liquor license is expected very soon. Corn beef hash and cabernet anyone?

For now, focus on hot chocolate and bring the kids (your own or somebody else’s) this Saturday, Dec. 17. There’s a large and beautifully decorated gingerbread house. It evens opens revealing two levels of cookie- and candy-covered rooms. Santa will be sitting beside it at 4, reading aloud from The Polar Express and T’was the Night Before Christmas. Courtney, who plans to be here serving sweets and brunch for a long, long time, hopes it’s the start of an annual tradition.

George Bilgere, Cleveland Magazine Contributor, Appears on Prairie Home Companion

2011-12-11T14:15:00.004-05:00

George Bilgere, poet, professor, and Cleveland Magazine contributor, appeared on Garrison Keillor's Prairie Home Companion radio show this weekend.

The John Carroll professor read three poems, "Bridal Shower," "The Table," and "Snow," and provoked rounds of laughter from the audience at New York City's Town Hall.

"A poet who knows how to blend the sentimental and sarcastic," the show's website calls him, capturing Bilgere's appeal. His narrative poetry, its line breaks crackling with wit, is a nice complement to Keillor's equally precise, drier humor.

The podcast of the show is up today, and you can listen here. (He comes on at 78:40 and 111:47.)

We've been publishing Bilgere and writing about him for years. So if you enjoyed his radio appearance and are googling for more, please check out his work in our archives:

"Single Guy," November 2011, about his brief vacation from his marriage

"Dawn Patrol," July 2011, about the summertime community at the Cleveland Heights pool

"Beyond Borders," April 2011, anticipating the decline of the big-box bookstore

"Poetry in Ruin," September 2010, on the beauty of Cleveland's architectural decay

"My Weirdest Meal," for Feast!, Summer 2007, a memoir of a meal of mystery food in Tokyo

"A Garden of Poetic Delight," February 2006, Bilgere's review of Akron poet Elton Glaser's book

"Ode to the Road," December 2004, Bilgere's poem about I-480, commissioned by Cleveland Magazine for our "East Side vs. West Side: Get Over It!" issue

A Cheesy Gift Idea

2011-12-09T10:36:00.002-05:00

What do you buy for the cheese lover who has everything? Brandon Chrostowski, sommelier and fromager at L’Albatros, recommends sending your friend on a trip to cheese heaven via the restaurant’s new Cheese of the Month program.

Club membership (available on a monthly basis) provides a delivery of seasonal cheeses, each hand-selected by Chrostowski. The package includes three half-pound pieces of cheese, accompanied by hand-written descriptions of the selection and suggested wine pairings.

Chrostowski’s established relationships with cheese mongers across the United States ensure that his clients get the best of the best.

“They’re giving me top wheels,” he says. “I’ve been working with these people five or ten years, some of them.”

The fromager is not new to the cheese scene himself, having worked in restaurants in Chicago, Paris and New York before accepting Zack Bruell’s offer to develop a cheese board at L’Albatros.

The club’s cheeses come from across the homeland and abroad. Recently featured were Rush Creek Reserve from Wisconsin and Mimolette from France, both of which were delectable enough that Chrostowski sent them to club members without a second thought.

The selection offered through Cheese of the Month is at times similar to the restaurant’s cheese board but often features unique and hard-to-get wheels. Discerning members can request a specific type of cheese, but less certain members can rest assured that they’re in good hands.

“You’re going to get three great pieces of cheese that are seasonally perfect and ripe,” Chrostowski says. “It’s a little taste of heaven every 30 days.”

The Cheese of the Month club is $60 per month plus shipping. To sign up or send a membership as a gift, call L’Albatros: 216-791-7880.

Hunt in the 216 Sends Shoppers Scavenging

2011-12-09T09:15:00.027-05:00

Downtown's new retail store recently had shoppers vying to solve mysterious Cleveland-centric riddles in pursuit of a grand prize.

Sean Bilovecky of Dredgers Union spearheaded Hunt in the 216, a scavenger hunt for the store's fans. Riddles were posted twice a week on the store's blog and Facebook page, leading Cleveland-savvy hunters to locations around the city. At each location, participants found one of four cards that formed a secret phrase. The winner was the first person to get to the store and recite the phrase.

“It was a fun way to incorporate our Facebook followers and put a little bit more of an exciting spin on a holiday giveaway,” says Bilovecky.

Creating the riddles nearly stumped him.

“I was getting ready in the morning and was like, ‘Maybe I’ll just write ridiculous poems about it,'” says Bilovecky. “It kind of makes it whimsical and doesn’t make it too dark and evil, like the Da Vinci Code movie.”

The hunt began on Nov. 14; the final clue was posted on Black Friday. Only 20 minutes after the store opened that day, the grand prize was claimed. The winner, identified as Kelly F. on the store's website, took her lunch break at 10 a.m. to ensure she’d have enough time to figure out the clue, says Bilovecky. She received a $100 gift card to the Dredgers Union. She'll also get to choose the name of one piece in Dredgers Union's spring 2012 collection and receive that item in her size.

Here are the riddles and solutions:

1. From the heart of downtown I headed due West.
I was craving a hot dog, and wanted the best.
After 58 blocks I entered this place,
and saw a peculiar bulletin space…

2. From the heart of downtown East I must go,
To see an independent moving picture show.
Next to the theater stands an Irishman’s bar,
within it a cigarette machine, to the back but not far.

3. From the heart of downtown a bit South I would travel,
To trees and grass where nearby clues would unravel.
This open air space in honor of old Abe,
Has as its neighbor a beanery in its shade.

4. In the heart of downtown this time I will stay,
On this glorious, victorious, final clue day.
To a street formerly known as Sheriff I will go,
And find a place that sells a “crush,” and the stuff we call Joe.

Then I’m gonna book it to DU and win!

1. The Happy Dog. The clue was located on the bulletin board by the door.
2. Parnell's Pub, next to the Cedar-Lee movie theater. The clue was located on top of the cigarette machine.
3. Civilization, a coffee shop off Lincoln Park in Tremont. The clue was located near the fliers.
4. Erie Island, the coffee shop next to Dredgers Union. (The "crush" refers to Erie Island's name for its paninis.) The clue was located by the cash register.

Bilovecky says he hopes to have three or four Hunts in the 216 in 2012.

You can read about Dredgers Union in our December issue and check out a profile of store co-founder Danielle DeBoe in our June issue.

Do Good for Baked Goods

2011-12-07T06:00:00.002-05:00

If you believe in supporting local food; small, locally owned businesses; artisanal craftsmanship; and good people. Or, if you just believe in giving to those who need help, now’s the time to step up. Michael and Marika Feigenbaum, owners of Lucy's Sweet Surrender, a bakery on Cleveland’s Buckeye Road, have their backs against the wall and are asking the public to lend a hand.

They’ve been robbed, mugged and shot at the store multiple times in the past two years. Two of their vehicles have been stolen from the parking lot. It’s just not safe to do business at their present location. More than the financial loss, the couple worries about each other all the time. The stress is awful. Imagine if it were you or someone you love in this situation. Michael bought the bakery, originally opened in 1957 to serve the Hungarian clientele that populated the neighborhood, in 1994. No longer a bustling ethnic enclave, the area’s been down on its luck for years. But Michael stayed, hoping for a comeback and trying hard to make that happen. But things have gotten worse, not better And so with great reluctance (Michael loves the little shop with the long history), it’s time to go.

They’ve found an ideal location: the old Chandler and Rudd store, another spot with a storied past, at Van Aken and Chagrin. They hope to be in by early February and have a grand opening for Valentine's Day. There is, however, a major obstacle to achieving this goal: money. The hardworking couple have leveraged all their assets just to keep the doors open on Buckeye Road and don’t have the resources to cover the expense of moving and setting up in the new space. They've managed to get a small grant from Shaker Heights and a loan, but it's not enough. So they’re asking for donations to raise an additional $20,000. Between now and Dec. 25, you can contribute to Lucy’s Moving Fund, using PayPal, by clicking on the Fundrazr button on the left side of the bakery’s Facebook fan page.

By way of thanks, those who give $100 or more will receive half off a custom cake order, a minimum $40 value, good starting March 20, 2012. But everyone who gives, in any amount, will get the satisfaction of knowing you’re like Santa Claus, the Tooth Fairy and Glenda the Good Witch all rolled into one. Of course, another way to help is to buy, buy, buy: wonderful tortes, pastries, cookies and breads. The bakery is open until Christmas.

I’ve known these people personally and professionally a long time. They don’t come any better. It’s been tough for many small businesses but especially difficult for this one. They’re an important and valued part of our unique food community. Please rally round and make it possible for them to continue to do what they do so well.

Successful Pekar statue drive closes; his Cleveland book coming in March

2011-12-05T22:44:00.006-05:00

It's official: The Harvey Pekar library statue will be built.

His widow Joyce Brabner's fundraising campaign on the website Kickstarter closed Sunday night with $38,356 in pledges. Brabner says she hopes to dedicate the Comics as Art and Literature Desk inside the Cleveland Heights-University Heights library on what would've been Pekar's next birthday, Oct. 8, 2012.

"It's great to take this thing that hurts and turn it into something that could matter," Brabner says.

Pekar, Cleveland's legendary underground comic-book writer, died last July at age 70. The memorial is Brabner's response to an earlier idea for memorializing Pekar: Some fans wanted to erect a statue over his grave in Lake View Cemetery.

"When Harvey died, there were all these New York folks banging the drum, saying Harvey needs a statue, he was a working class hero, a literary lion, our man," says Brabner. "I thought they were nuts."

Brabner and Pekar felt a person's works should be celebrated after death, not the person. So Brabner took the statue idea and turned it into a practical memorial dedicated to creativity: a desk and small statue dedicated to comics, the genre Pekar did so much to elevate into a serious form of literature.

The desk will always be filled with pencils, paper, and art materials from the art supply company Faber-Castell. Rising from the desk will be a bronze plaque of a comic book page. A small statue of Pekar, shrugging his shoulders, will step out of it. Two Pekar quotes about his artistic philosophy will be engraved on the memorial: "Anybody’s life story is potentially the source of a great novel, comic book, or movie," and, "Comics are words and pictures. You can do anything with words and pictures."

"If somebody sits down at the desk and starts to make the connection that their stories are worth telling, that’s an important message," Brabner says.

Pekar is on Clevelanders' minds because a preview of his forthcoming book, Harvey Pekar's Cleveland, ran in Monday's Plain Dealer. Unfortunately, the accompanying article erroneously reported that the book came out Monday, causing readers to deluge Pekar's favorite bookstore, Mac's Backs, with phone calls. Actually, the book comes out in March.

The article was right about this, though: Pekar fans can still contribute to the memorial project. Donations will cover incidental expenses, everything from installation and legal fees to shipping gifts to pledgers. (For instance, Brabner has promised to create and send Harvey Pekar dolls to the 29 people who donated $125-$199 to the Kickstarter campaign.) Any proceeds left over will go to expanding the Heights Library's comic book collection. To contribute to the campaign, send money through PayPal to hpekar@aol.com, or a check to The Estate of Harvey L. Pekar, P.O. Box 18471, Cleveland Heights, OH 44118.

To read the obituary for Pekar on the Cleveland Magazine blog, click here. To read our essay about him in Cleveland Magazine's December 2010 cover package, "Our Miserable Year," click here.

(art from smithmag.net/pekarproject)

Say [Mascarpone] Cheese

2011-11-30T06:00:00.002-05:00

Mascarpone is a gift from the food gods. It’s slightly sweet, rich and buttery, silky and smooth. I discovered the fabulousness and flexibility of this Italian double or triple cream cheese late in my cooking life and started using it only about five years ago. I’m not a very skilled baker, but with mascarpone, I’m now able to make one cake that always pleases and impresses my guests. I can’t tell you anymore about what goes into it because I’m submitting the recipe to a contest sponsored by the Wisconsin-based Crave Brothers Farmstead Classics Cheese.

There are separate competitions for chefs and home cooks, and three categories: appetizers/side dishes (includes salads), main dishes and desserts. Each will have a first place winner that receives $200. The Grand Prize winner will be awarded an Apple iPad 2. You have until January 13, 2012, to submit your recipe. It’s not essential, but they’re encouraging entrants to include a one-minute (or less) video demo of your recipe for the Crave Brothers website. Send recipes and videos by email to alise@cravecheese.com or by mail to Crave Brothers, Attn. Alise, W 11555 Torpy Road, Waterloo, WI 53594. photo of Strawberry cheesecake courtesy of Crave Brothers

Of course, they’d like you to use their award-winning mascarpone (but it’s not a requirement). Order it online. Other brands are available at many stores around town. Or you can make it yourself. More like yogurt than a real cheese, mascarpone is a cultured dairy product.

Start with really good local cream, stir in tartaric acid, watch the curds form, and drain. It really is that easy. Leener’s, a do-it-yourself fermented food supply store in Northfield, sells the acid in 2-ounce packets. They also include it in a soft cheese kit that has starter cultures for chevre, crème fraiche and fromage blanc. If you’re into this sort of thing, or know someone who is, the kit makes a nice gift. (So does Crave’s Chocolate Mascarpone Pie basket which contains the ingredients to bake one.)

I’m thinking the holiday season, with its requisite entertaining frenzy, is the ideal time to perfect a winning recipe. But don’t get your hopes up. I want that iPad and am in it to win it with my cake.

Ale-Tail

2011-11-22T09:15:00.004-05:00

Cocktails made with beer are a hot new trend. They’re serving a fine one at Amp 150, the bar and restaurant at the Airport Marriott. I had an opportunity to taste it at the start of a private dinner I attended a few weeks ago.

The purpose of the gathering was to introduce some members of the media to the new team: Executive chef Jeff Jarrett and food and beverage manager Nathan White. The take-away message and good news was that these two are continuing the commitment to keep a local focus when it comes to ingredients and products. And that was perfectly expressed in the refreshing drink that kicked off the evening.

It’s called The Rockmill, after the brewery in Lancaster, Ohio that supplies saison, a Belgian beer the bartender uses in combination with St. Germain, an elderflower liqueur, and fresh lemon juice. Matt Barbee, founder and fermentation master of Rockmill Brewery (pictured below), is in a truly unique position, and I mean that literally, to make this traditional farmhouse ale.

The former horse ranch owned by his family where he works his magic with organic yeast, hops and malt is located upstream at the source of the Hocking River. His water is not just clean but has a mineral profile remarkably similar to what’s found in Wallonia, the region of Belgium where saison was perfected. Since water is the main ingredient in beer, his stuff has an authentic edge that others can’t match.

Barbee also does a witbier, a dubbel, and a tripel. The production is small and hands-on. His beers were the only spirits selected for this year’s Maxim holiday gift guide. When I spoke to him last week, he was in a truck driving to Cleveland with his first delivery to all of Heinen’s grocery stores. Bottles are also sold at Grady’s Fine Wines in Rocky River. In addition to Amp 150, the beers are served at B Spot, Greenhouse Tavern, and Buckeye Beer Engine.

Sam McNulty and Andy Tveekrem of Market Garden Brewery in Ohio City, which also pours Barbee’s brews, are cooking up a special Nose-to-Tail beer dinner for Tuesday, Nov. 29. I love the collaborative spirit behind this event. Executive chef Michael Nowak of Bar Cento, another of McNulty’s dining and drinking establishments, and his team are in charge of the food side, turning a pasture raised heirloom breed pig from Tea Hills Farm into four fabulous courses (out of five, counting a non-pork dessert). Guests will get to meet the brewers and be among the first to sample something new from Rockmill. Tickets are $45. Reservations are required: 216-621-4000. Glasses are raised at 6:30 pm.

Ohio Knitting Mills' Pop-Up Shop Opens

2011-11-18T09:20:00.000-05:00

Venturing to find vintage vêtements for your fashionista friends this holiday season? Look no further than the Ohio Knitting Mills’ Pop-Up Shop (a 2011 Best of Cleveland winner) located on the corner of West 28th Street and Lorain Avenue in Ohio City.

“Three generations of one family ran the mill from 1927 to 2004, when it finally shut down its production operation,” explains Steve Tatar, current president and creative director of Ohio Knitting Mills.

“I met the owner of the business, Gary Rand, who revealed a very, very large collection of historic sweaters that his father and grandfather had been saving since World War II. He kept one or two of everything they made from the 1940’s up through the 1970’s," Tatar says. "It became this tremendous collection of more than 5,000 sweaters.”

The holiday shop will have an assortment of these one-of-a-kind sweaters, skirts, vests and shirts on-hand ($48-$188). “We’ll have accessories (starting at $20) too — hats, gloves, scarves and mittens that we’re making here, out of our historic fabrics,” Tatar says.

The pop-up shop also has finds for those who prefer to hang their art rather than wear it. “We’re doing a project with the Cleveland Public Library to promote their vast collection of historic images of the region,” says Tatar. The 18 x 24 inch full-color posters ($20, featured above) will showcase an array of advertisements celebrating the city’s heyday. There are four different images available, including an ad for the seminal Cleveland Industrial Exposition of 1909.

New threads are in the near future for OKM, too. The company has designed a capsule collection of men’s shirts for spring 2012, which they will be offering exclusively at the Cleveland store before going national with the newly knitted numbers.

“You know, I think it’s time to put the Ohio Knitting Mills name on new goods,” Tatar suggested. “Let’s continue the tradition. Let’s continue to make amazingly patterned, colorful knitwear and really own it — own the brand.”

And you can own it too, when the OKM Holiday Pop-Up Shop opens this Friday at 6 p.m. for a special unveiling party, hosted by partner Twist Creative Inc. Don’t dawdle though, OKM will be closing up shop on Jan. 8.

For more info on OKM, holiday shop hours and online store, visit ohioknittingmills.com

“Cosmic Collisions” Hit Natural History Museum This Weekend

2011-11-17T17:10:00.009-05:00

The universe began with a bang, and the hits just keep on coming.

“Cosmic Collisions,” the newest planetarium show at the Cleveland Museum of Natural History, opens Saturday and will showcase collisions within our universe from all points in time: past, present and future.

The show features supercomputer simulations of the collisions of galaxies, asteroids, comets and solar particles, as well as the collision between the Earth and a Mars-sized object that most scientists believe ultimately formed our moon.

Jason Davis, the astronomy programs coordinator at the natural history museum, says the simulations “are as accurate as we can get to the science.”

The American Museum of Natural History in New York City produced the show and made it available to all museums with the equipment to project it. Thanks to an extensive upgrade in summer 2010, the natural history museum is well capable.

Viewers will take in the awe-inspiring story of how our moon came to be and see how the Northern Lights are caused by solar particles’ collisions with the Earth’s magnetic field. The audience can also travel through space after the show, if they so choose. The planetarium operators can zoom viewers to any planet, star, or galaxy in their database.

“It could be as simple as a trip to Pluto, or as complicated as [a map of] the mass of the universe,” Davis says. “If asked to, I could show them every galaxy ever discovered.” Even though a large number of them will simply be data points, just seeing the vastness of the universe we live in is eye-opening.

Wednesday evening shows keep visitors a little closer to home. On clear Wednesday nights through December, the museum invites planetarium attendees to go up to the telescope dome after the show to gaze upon Jupiter and four of its brightest moons, the same four first discovered by Galileo more than 400 years ago.

“Cosmic Collisions” premieres at noon this Saturday, with shows at 2 and 4 pm following. It runs through December 31. For complete showing information, click here.

Milk and Potatoes in Cleveland Heights

2011-11-16T06:00:00.002-05:00

When he got pink-slipped by corporate America in a downsizing frenzy, Keith Logan embarked on a journey that involved cross-country travel and soul searching to discover what he wanted to do next. He found his passion and purpose in making good things to eat. The result is Sweetie Fry. There are just two options on the menu at this little corner spot: ice cream and french fries. It’s a clever choice since just about everybody in America loves one or both. In all kinds of flavors and variations that display his natural flair for culinary creativity, they are each made in small batches to the highest standards with the finest ingredients Logan can get his hands on. And they are equally, irresistibly delicious.

Logan gets his milk and cream from a local producer and uses an ice-cream-making process that, he explains, is superior to the standard approach because it intensifies the taste of whatever he adds to the butterfat. According to him, nobody else in Ohio does it this way. He learned the method from some acknowledged experts and perfected his technique at home until opening on Lee Road in October. After sampling many of the options on his chalkboard, which often change, I can verify that he’s doing something very right. His vanilla bean and butter pecan are the best versions I’ve ever had. The caramel pear is amazing, more so with a drizzle of his salty caramel sauce. Maple bacon, laced with bits of candied pork, will be my downfall because I live dangerously, conveniently close, and he keeps late-night hours.

If the ice cream doesn’t become an addiction, the fries will. It’s a seven-step, labor-intensive process involving some pretty high-tech equipment. And it’s the sauces on the side that take these tubers (Idahos waffle cut or strips, and orange sweet potatoes) to the next level: hot and sweet chipotle, barbecue mayo, Indian masala and toasted sesame. Then there are what Logan refers to as the entree options: baskets of fries tossed with shredded Parmigiano Reggiano and truffle oil (heaven); topped with chili and cheese (haven’t tried … yet); or paired with Tabasco and crumbled gorgonzola (didn’t think I’d like this but found I could not stop my hand from picking them up and putting them in my mouth). Order at the front counter, take a seat, and when they’re ready, Thomas Hathaway, a man who used to sell peanuts at the ballpark, gives you a hearty booming shout-out to retrieve them at the pick-up window in back. They come in a paper cone tucked in a cute metal holder with dipping cup attached.

Then there are the desert fries. These batter-based babies are in a class all their own. Reminiscent of funnel cakes but far superior to the greasy stuff sold at fairs and carnivals, they’re dusted with cinnamon and maple sugar. While chatting and sampling with Logan, I suggested we try dunking them in ice cream, something he hadn’t thought of before. Definitely a good idea and better as the ice cream gets soft and melty.

There are eight tables plus a little one for the youngest customers. Logan wants Sweetie Fry to be a neighborhood hang-out, a place where everyone (and that includes toddlers, high school kids, and adults of all ages) feels at home. He warmly welcomes each person who walks in the door and feels like he’s investing in the community as well as his business. Logan clearly likes what he’s doing, and his favorite part is watching the look of pure pleasure on people’s faces when they try his creations. Stop in and make his day. 2301 Lee Road, Cleveland Heights

Raab, Izrael Talk LeBron at Happy Dog

2011-11-15T10:54:00.001-05:00

Last night, The Happy Dog was the scene of a debate of sorts between Esquire writer Scott Raab, author of The Whore of Akron: One Man's Search for the Soul of LeBron James (read an excerpt here), and writer and culture critic Jimi Izrael, a supporter of LeBron's right to leave town. Plain Dealer columnist and WCPN 90.3 Sound of Ideas host Michael McIntyre moderated the event, which was dubbed The Derision but felt more like a good-natured debate between friends.

Raab started the evening by reading an excerpt from his book — a scene in which he meets Izrael at a black barber shop in Cleveland Heights, where Raab grew up, and the men discuss James' legacy in Cleveland, centering on race.

"It's late in the book," Raab said. "And it's the only time I try to face, head on, that issue."

Once Izrael took the stage, the early part of the debate was more a continuation of their conversation from that barber shop.

"A lot of people of color saw [The Decision] as a young man who had agency over his life," Izrael said. "That's something uncommon to black people."

"When I left Cleveland, I didn't inflict a severe emotional and economic wound on the town," Raab countered. "I didn't disappoint anyone."

Though Raab and Izrael disagreed, they were clearly chummy. This wasn't a knock-down fight by any means. As the night went on, those in the crowd proved to be the most outwardly passionate — be it for or against James. Raab and Izrael came off as pragmatic and reasoned by comparison.

An early questioner asked if The Decision hadn't happened, did Raab think people would still be as upset?

"The only circumstances under which LeBron would have left that I would not have been angry would have been after bringing a championship home," Raab answered.

A common theme in the crowd's questions was whether we as a culture take sports too seriously. One person made the comparison to the reaction of Penn State students to the firing of Joe Paterno.

"I know on one level it's only sports," Raab said. "People get worked up about seeing a painting or listening to music, but sports really does take on a meaning way out of proportion to its actual bearing on our lives."

Some questions were less reasoned, traveling to the outskirts of hypothetical sense: What if James had scored more points in a particular game? Is the lockout his fault? Would it have been any different if our NBA team was the Akron Cavaliers instead of the Cleveland Cavaliers?

Ultimately, McIntyre brought the discussion back around to Raab and his book.

"You said in the book that you were searching for the soul Lebron James." McIntyre said. "Did you find it?"

"No," Raab said. "I'm not calling him a soulless spawn of satan. The title and the subtitle — I wouldn't take any of this s--t too seriously."

The event benefited Ohio City Writers, a nonprofit youth creative writing center, of which Izrael is a board member.

Scott Raab talks LeBron, his book on our podcast

2011-11-11T17:33:00.000-05:00

Scott Raab feels our pain. A native Clevelander, Esquire writer-at-large and author of The Whore of Akron: One Man's Search for the Soul of LeBron James, Raab joined us for our November podcast to talk Browns, LeBron and his book (listen to the interview).

"I was hoping to write the happy book about our homegrown Moses leading us all finally to the Promised Land," Raab says. "I saw very quickly, as a credentialed journalist going to Cavs practices and games, that there was a level of dysfunction that was extraordinary ... From my point of view, the relationship between the media and LeBron, LeBron and the media, the team and LeBron. It was so screwy. It was so out of wack."

The Whore of Akron will be released Nov. 15, and if you want to see and hear Raab in person, hit the Happy Dog Monday, Nov. 14, for "The Derision" where Raab will face off against Ohio City Writers board member Jimi Izrael, who has a very different opinion about LeBron's decision to leave Cleveland. Raab will also be at Visible Voice Books Thursday, Nov. 17.

Holiday Shopping Pops Up in Gordon Square

2011-11-11T09:00:00.003-05:00

A new gallery has popped up on the Cleveland art scene, but it may not be there for long. Double Feature, an eclectic pop-up gallery, is set to open today in the Gordon Square Arts District on the city's West Side.

Double Feature’s two-room space will play host to an array of fine art, a unique shop and various events throughout the holiday season.

The gallery is run by four friends, who came together through involvement with other artistic ventures around Cleveland, namely Ctownartparty. The group wanted to create a space that showcased local and national artists in a fun and casual environment, according to founder Rachel Hunt.

“We saw that there was this gap where we felt there weren’t a lot of emerging national artists being exhibited in Cleveland,” she says. “So we really wanted to start integrating national and local art, and to frame it on the same wall.”

With its attractive layout, foot traffic and established arts organizations, the newly renovated Gordon Square is a good fit for the small gallery. The four partners hope to return the favor by attracting new people and young talent to the up-and-coming area.

Double Feature already has a number of events planned for its two-month residency, including participation in Gordon Square’s “Bright Night,” children’s art workshops with local artists, and a holiday sweater show.

Despite an inclination to bring in outside artists, the founders emphasize that the gallery is “quintessentially Cleveland,” from its prices (the most expensive piece being $2,000) to its feeling of community.

“It doesn’t matter who you are,” says Hunt. “You can buy art and be a part of the art scene. You’ll feel like you’re welcome to just kind of hang out with us on Friday nights like you would at somebody’s house.”

Join the friends of Double Feature in celebrating the gallery’s opening tonight from 8 p.m. to midnight.

1392 W 65th St, 440-263-2254

Past Meets Present in Paintings of Fu Baoshi

2011-11-10T12:18:00.000-05:00

Faced with political turbulence and the growing fear of westernization, post-war China looked toward painters such as Fu Baoshi for peace of mind. As one of the modern masters of the east, Fu Baoshi merged classical Chinese motifs with contemporary references to reveal a multi-faceted culture, one that was in touch with history yet cognizant of emerging philosophies and new ways of living.

“The act of moving a stagnant tradition entails imparting life, dynamism and an affecting quality to painting,” the artist once said. “[It’s] injecting warmth to enliven something that had long been frozen and hardened.”

He began his career copying subtle landscapes and semi-religious figure paintings from Chinese antiquity and giving these scenes a modern touch by including elements from contemporary poetry, as exemplified in Beauty Under Banana Palm (below), on view through Jan. 8 at the Cleveland Museum of Art, as part of a retrospective titled Chinese Art In the Age of Revolution, Fu Baoshi (1904-1965).

Drawing on his experience as a young artist-in-residence at Musashino University in Japan and his tenure as art history professor at Nanjing, Fu Baoshi merged the pale, spacious compositions of traditional Chinese literati painting with new Japanese forms of ink application.

In time, he developed a style all his own, spreading the brush bristles and applying strokes with respect to pressure and direction. He applied his texture-stroke not only to traditional landscapes, but to scenes of industrialization emerging in neighboring lands — surprisingly modern scenes, such as Irkutsk Airport, which depicts Chinese planes landing at a Soviet airbase in the winter of 1957, and Gottwaldov, a Czech cityscape enveloped in smog, evoking the shadow of urban life (top).

“Fu explored new subject matter related to revolution, socialist reconstruction and industrial development, which testified to his ongoing attempt to transform Chinese painting to serve new political needs,” says exhibit curator Anita Chung.

Something New for Canton

2011-11-09T06:00:00.005-05:00

Downtown Canton got its first real chef-driven farm-to-table restaurant in July. It’s called Lucca. The husband and I had dinner there recently with people who supply some of the kitchen’s fine local ingredients. At the table were Mindy and Phil Bartholomae of Breezy Hill Farm in Homeworth, who raise an A-to-Z assortment of fruits and vegetables on their 23 acres, which includes three high tunnels so they can harvest year-round. The other couple was Jean Mackenzie and Jim Zella of Mackenzie Creamery, the award-winning artisanal goat cheese producer in Hiram (they had organized the get-together). It was a lovely evening of good food, good wine and great conversation in a pretty, contemporary setting.

Josh Schory, who put in time at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, was at the stove. He's young, just 29, and this is his first restaurant, owned in partnership with his father, who stopped by to introduce himself. Josh decided to name it after his favorite town in Italy and wants to reproduce the fresh, simple, seasonal dishes that are eaten in this part of Tuscany.
After sampling a variety of appetizers, salads, and a couple of entrees, I can happily report that he captures the spirit of this cuisine and infuses it with Ohio flavors and his personal style.

Bread from nearby Hazel Artisan Bakery dipped in an excellent imported olive oil whetted our appetites for a buffet of shared starters: fried calamari, lightly coated with semolina flour, with roasted garlic and lemon aioli; crispy flatbreads with Prosciutto di Parma, goat cheese and pear jam; and littleneck clams in a fennel pollen butter broth that had us begging for extra bread to sop up every last drop.

A caprese salad, with multicolored roasted beets standing in for the tomatoes, fresh pulled mozzarella, arugula and toasted pine nuts, was next for me. The husband and I shared my succulent grilled herb-crusted lamb chops, which came with housemade gnocchi in a cheddar sage sauce, and his simple but tasty linguini tossed with roasted garlic, toasted walnuts (a nice touch), arugula, basil and pecorino romano. The six of us passed around and polished off a nicely conceived cheese board to finish.

I’m always glad to discover a spot like Lucca, with a dedication to scratch cooking and local sourcing, in one of Northeast Ohio’s urban centers. Admittedly, its a longish drive from Cleveland just for dinner, but not out of the question, especially if you want to support a business like this. But if you’re in the area or live nearby, you'd be foolish not to take advantage of such an exciting and admirable addition to the area's dining options.

Answer This!

2011-11-08T12:13:00.000-05:00

Christopher Farah was pretty concerned with how his movie, Answer This!, was going to do in its Cleveland premiere at the Cedar Lee Theatre last Friday.

"I have no problem saying that I am absolutely scared sh-tless," he told us a day before the screening. "I hope I make it out of there alive."

Farah, who wrote and directed the movie, isn't concerned because of the movie's content. He is concerned because of its sole setting — the dreaded University of Michigan.

"There really is a kind of weirdly personal rivalry between Michigan and Ohio," says Farah, who has also directed several shorts for the comedy website Funny or Die

The movie combines the world of pub trivia — a world with eccentric, outsized characters fit for a Christopher Guest mockumentary like Best in Show — with the world of academia. It's a combination that Farah thinks is perfect.

"The trivia world is obsessed with little facts," Farah says. "And sometimes, the academic world is, too. I wanted to explore that."

The movie is about something else, though. It's about a grad student who loses sight of why he hasn't moved on. He focuses too much on the big picture while losing sight of the small things — the trivial things.

Farah and his brother Michael, who is one of the movie's producers, are natives of Ann Arbor, Mich. Chris earned a bachelor's and master's degree from the University of Michigan. They get the OSU-Michigan rivalry.

"To me, [the Cleveland screenings] are the ultimate test," Farah says. "When you get an OSU fan to say, 'I really like a movie made about Michigan,' you know you've done something right."

Answer This! is showing at Cleveland Heights' Cedar Lee Theatre until Thursday, Nov. 10.

To test your own useless knowledge, check out trivia nights at these local bars: Becky's Bar on Thursdays, The Fairmount in Cleveland Heights on Mondays and the Parma Tavern on Wednesdays.

Gavin DeGraw's "Sweeter" has an Edge

2011-11-05T15:52:00.001-04:00

On Gavin DeGraw’s fourth studio album, he has done some evolving.

“The record as a whole, I think it’s just a little bit sexier than anyone’s ever heard before,” DeGraw says.

Sweeter was released in September, and Sunday he's performing at PlayhouseSquare's Palace Theatre, where he is co-headlining with American Idol winner David Cook.

DeGraw's first single from the new album, “Not Over You,” has gotten steady radio airplay, and it currently sits in the top 50 of Billboard’s Hot 100. Co-written and produced by Ryan Tedder of OneRepublic, the track is another example of how DeGraw’s style has changed.

“Every album I’ve made prior to this record I’ve always wrote alone. This particular album I thought it was important to just change it up a little bit,” DeGraw says. Having multiple producers helped mold the sound of this record, too.

On the title track and “Radiation,” locals will be happy to hear DeGraw pulled some inspiration from Akron natives The Black Keys by embracing a raw, edgier sound.

“There’s moments of romance on the record, but I also think that there’s moments of just straight up sex and masculinity,” DeGraw says. “Some of the things that really aren’t played within the so-called singer-songwriter realm. That bullsh-t safe term called singer-songwriter.”

On some of the tracks where he does get a little edgier, DeGraw said some people will say, “Holy sh-t, are you sure that’s Gavin DeGraw?” But that’s what he likes about it because that’s him, too.

He’s not a singer-songwriter — he’s an artist — and he’s unwilling to be pigeon-holed, he says.

“I’m not going to be romantic every time,” DeGraw says. “Sometimes I’m just going to get real with somebody and be like, ‘Yo, this is how I’m feeling.’"

Gavin DeGraw performs at the Palace Theatre Sunday, Nov. 6, at 7 p.m. He is co-headlining with David Cook. Tickets are $10-$45. DeGraw photo credit: Patrick Fraser

Cooking Local

2011-11-02T06:00:00.002-04:00

Vermillion author Marilou Suszko has a second cookbook on the shelves. The Locavore’s Kitchen: A Cook’s Guide to Seasonal Eating and Preserving was released earlier this year by Ohio University Press. It’s a nice follow-up to her first cookbook Farms & Foods of Ohio.

Suszko is my friend, and we’re collaborating on a book about the West Side Market, to be published next year. She even included a recipe from me, potato pancakes, in The Locavore’s Kitchen and titled it with my name. So, of course, I’m inclined to review her latest work. And I was really hoping I’d have a favorable opinion, otherwise things could be … well … awkward, to say the least. Luckily, I do.

This is a fine collection of appealing, doable recipes plus useful insight and tips from someone who really knows her way around the kitchen. Suszko’s ideas about what it takes to produce great dishes and memorable meals are inspiring. I often refer to her as a domestic goddess. Because although I pride myself on cooking from scratch, she’s way “scratchier.” It’s not uncommon for this very busy writer to find time to make her own butter, ricotta, crème fraiche and sauerkraut. One day she tried to convince me how easy it is to produce your own ginger ale. So in this book, she provides instructions for turning vegetables into pickles, milk into yogurt, fruit into jam and herbs into pesto. She gets you excited about infusing vinegars, drying chiles to grind into powder and coiling up some cider syrup. Suszko is also a good writer, adept at explaining the intricacies of how to achieve the perfect pie crust or cook grass-fed beef for optimum flavor.

She says the book is meant for beginners and not necessarily people like me with years of stove time under my belt and a longstanding practice of buying local ingredients. And it definitely meets the challenge of equipping novices with a wealth of valuable information about how to choose, store, use and preserve what our farmers provide. Even so, I learned many things flipping through the pages, from the subtle differences in flavor and texture of 11 varieties of squash to the definition of a slump (not the kind that often hits around 4 in the afternoon, but a sort of puddingy cobbler prepared on the stovetop with a steamed top that’s sort of like a dumpling).

Right now the only thing left in my garden is kale. And now that the nights have gotten cold, it should be sweeter than it was a month ago. So I’m excited about bringing it for Suszko’s kale and sausage sauté soon. I also have three red cabbages I harvested last week that are destined to be braised, as per her instructions, with apples, red wine vinegar, brown sugar and baking spices. And busy as I am working on that new manuscript, if I find some sugar pumpkins (the kind you puree not carve) at the farmers market this weekend, I feel like I must try her recipe for spicy pumpkin ketchup. The woman just makes you want to start chopping and stirring. I can’t think of a better recommendation for a cookbook.

E. 4th’s Maron closes Envy, nightclub & problem tenant

2011-11-01T20:06:00.003-04:00

Cleveland Magazine’s November issue has been out for about a week now, and Ari Maron, my latest profile subject, has already made one part of my new article about him obsolete.

Maron says Envy, the troubled nightclub on West 25th Street, has closed. Maron, Envy’s reluctant landlord, bought out the club’s liquor license and lease.

Maron’s company, MRN Ltd., owns most of East 4th Street and drove that block’s resurgence as a nightlife spot. Now, Maron, 33, is trying to bring a similar approach -- creative landlording based on ideals about cities -- to Ohio City and University Circle. Lots of high-profile tenants, such as Crop Bistro, have moved into the Maron family’s properties near the West Side Market lately.

Envy, a tenant MRN inherited on West 25th, threatened to upset the budding new resurgence. A man was shot to death outside the club in September.

Now, Maron intends to tear the former Envy down to create parking for a planned international traveler’s hostel. The Plain Dealer has the full story here.

To read “Urban Active,” my profile of Maron in the new issue, click here.

Farewell to Vine and Bean

2011-10-26T06:00:00.001-04:00

It’s always a good feeling to announce openings and new restaurant projects in the works. Happy to say I’ve been able to do a lot that the past few weeks. But reporting on a closing is sad, and that’s my job today. Heather Haviland, owner of the acclaimed and beloved Lucky’s Café in Tremont has decided to call it a day for her second satellite location Vine and Bean on Larchmere off Shaker Square. The sweet little spot had a good run, but it's time for the chef and her people to move on. This weekend will be the café’s last hurrah, and Haviland is making the occasion more of a party than a wake.

It’s business as usual on Saturday, but Sunday, Oct. 30 brunch will be served from
9 a.m. until 5 p.m. — just think, you can sleep in until some ungodly afternoon hour and still have a chance for one of her incredible breakfast burritos or some brie-laced mac n cheese. From 5-9 p.m., there will be all kinds of food and drink specials until supplies run out, live music, a yard sale of kitchen and tableware, and a raffle of Lucky’s gift certificates and other cool stuff.

Come say goodbye and send them off in style, with a toast to the future and whatever is next for this talented local chef who puts her heart and soul into everything she does and every plate she serves. It’s sure to be a fun time … and a chance to show support and give back to Heather who has always given so much to the community. 12706 Larchmere, 216-707-3333

The ACCENT is on Euclid ... Or Will Be Soon

2011-10-19T06:00:00.003-04:00

The good news just keeps on coming. Scott Kim, chef and owner of SASA on Shaker Square, called me last week to say that he and his wife, Brenda, have signed the lease for a second restaurant in University Circle. The building, part of the Uptown Development on Euclid Avenue at Mayfield, is still under construction, so it’s hard to pinpoint an exact opening date, but they’re hoping for late spring. I’ll keep you posted.

The Kims' restaurant will occupy the space adjacent to the Cleveland Institute of Art. Jonathon Sawyer, of Greenhouse Tavern and Noodlecat fame, has taken the opposite corner by MOCA. He’s keeping mum on his concept for it but had this to say: “I’m super excited to be neighbors with Scott. It’s going to be great.”

Kim, however, was more than ready to share. It is going to be a big place, about 300 seats inside and out, with a spacious bar the couple hopes will become a favorite happy hour gathering spot. The architect, Stanley Saitowitz, is designing a two-part interior: a playful lively lounge side with communal seating to encourage socializing and a quieter, more tranquil dining area.

The menu will be pan-Asian, reflecting Kim’s Korean heritage, his well-established expertise in Japanese cuisine, and his enthusiasm for Chinese and Thai food. But the talented chef doesn’t plan to let himself get boxed in by tradition or the quest to be authentic. The idea is to create original dishes that are inspired by this mix of styles and ingredients. The open kitchen will be outfitted with a high-tech version of robatayaki, popular in Japan, for charcoal grilling. Sushi won’t be available regularly, but he may offer some very unusual and original specials one night a week.

After wrestling long and hard with the question of what to call the restaurant, Scott settled on the name Accent. “I was inspired by the idea that we all come from someplace and everyone has their own way of speaking,” he explains. “The idea is that here, all people can come together, feel welcome, and get a better understanding of the food from these four different countries."

This is definitely going to be exciting for them ... and the rest of us!

A Christmas Ale Ice Cream Story

2011-10-17T15:42:00.003-04:00

As if Clevelanders needed another reason to drink Christmas Ale, Great Lakes Brewing Co. and Mitchell's Homemade Ice Cream are teaming up to bring sweet-toothed beer drinkers a little something extra this holiday season.

Great Lakes' highly desired holiday brew will be the primary flavor in Mitchell's Christmas Ale Ginger Snap ice cream.

"The ice cream definitely tastes like Christmas Ale," says Mike Mitchell of Mitchell's. "But it doesn't taste like you're drinking a frozen beer."

The ice cream maker is taking the small amounts of ale left over from the bottling process and adding more organic honey, Vietnamese cinnamon and homemade ginger snaps — flavors and ingredients already in the brew — to enhance the taste.

"It's a really good beer base for an ice cream because it has those Christmas and holiday flavors: honey, cinnamon and ginger," Mitchell says.

The ice cream will be available Nov. 1 at all Mitchell's locations as single scoops ($2.99), pints ($6.50) and quarts ($10.75). It will also be available at GLBC as a brewpub dessert ($5) or take-home pints ($6.50). The plan is to keep it around until the end of the year, but with Christmas Ale as an ingredient, supplies may dwindle fast.

Just in case that still isn't enough Christmas Ale, Lauren Boveington from GLBC suggests a pint of the beer as an ideal pairing for the ice cream.

"That's the best way to savor it," she says.

Spicing Up the Options

2011-10-12T06:00:00.001-04:00

I’m happy to be the bearer of some really good news. The recently formed culinary dream team of chefs Ben Bebenroth and Andy Strizak, both highly regarded champions of sustainable agriculture and the local food movement, are going beyond the catering they’re known for and the on-farm dinner series Plated Landscapes that’s done nothing but grow since Bebenroth launched it five years ago. The duo is starting a restaurant, a first for both. But the vision is for something that goes way beyond the ordinary arrangement of tables and chairs. Over drinks at Flying Fig, Ben and his wife, Jackie, shared the details of the multi-part, multi-phase project.

Spice Kitchen + Bar will open, once renovations are completed, in the spot at the corner of Detroit and West 58th Street that has recently housed a succession of restaurants (La Boca, Roseangel, and the short-lived La Boca Barrio). No date yet. But you can follow the progress of the transformation at thespiceblog.com. The space became available unexpectedly, and as Ben tells it, “We saw this as an incredible opportunity that fell in our lap. But we had only seven days to react and make a decision.” They went for it. In keeping with the philosophy and made-from-scratch style the chefs are known for, expect a menu of simple, familiar dishes rooted in the best of what’s grown and raised in Northeast Ohio. Think of it as good in every way: good tasting; good quality; good for your health, the environment and the community.

In stage II, sometime in 2012, The Spice Rack, inspired by Karen Small's Market at the Fig, will be doing business in a small connected storefront, offering a selection of local, artisan food products, prepared items from the restaurant and maybe even some supplies for home gardeners. Conceivably, you could stop in to pick up a lunchtime burrito to go, a jar of salsa plus a pound of stone-ground cornmeal to use later that night and a package of heirloom tomato seeds. Then there’s the plan to reinvent the patio with edible landscaping in containers and raised beds so it can accommodate diners and also supply the kitchen, with more ingredients coming from a plot of land behind the parking lot that they’ll put under cultivation and the 10,000-square-foot garden, complete with two hoop houses to extend the growing season in Ben and Jackie’s backyard. All these agricultural efforts are grouped under the name Spice Acres.

This location is also going to be headquarters and home base for Spice of Life, the parent company for this whole family of brands and projects, including the well-established catering operation, Plated Landscape events, and farmers market food stands.

They acknowledge that their undertaking is an ambitious one. It’s going to be a slow, incremental, step-by-step process. Let’s wish them well, show our support by showing up when the lights go on and count ourselves lucky that these people are committed to pursuing their dreams here.

Image by Bloom Photography, courtesy of Spice of Life

The Hippest Parking Garage In Town

2011-10-07T08:55:00.007-04:00

When you're planning your Saturday night, a parking garage is usually just a place to put your car. This Saturday, the Cleveland Urban Design Collaborative hopes to change that. For one night, the parking garage at 740 Euclid Avenue will transform into the Hipp Deck, an open-air performance venue.

From 6:30 to 9:30 p.m., Hipp Deck will host performances by electronic musician Freeze-Tag, local band Tastycakes and opera students from the Cleveland Institute of Music dressed in historical garb. A huge inflatable art installation by Jimmy Kuehnle may be visible from the street.

The event is also a book release party for the CUDC’s publication Cleveland Stories: True Until Proven Otherwise, which tells the narrative history of Cleveland’s architecture. The book will be available for half-price, $10. Food vendors such as Campbell’s Popcorn Shop and Tremont Scoops will serve treats.

The garage was built on the site of the historic Hippodrome Theater, nicknamed “The Hipp,” a nationally renowned venue demolished in 1981.

Hipp Deck is part of the CUDC’s Pop Up City initiative, which looks to use vacant or unusual spaces around Cleveland in inventive ways. The CUDC has been looking to do an event in a parking garage for some time, says David Jurca, a senior urban designer with CUDC.

“They’re kind of these spaces that are underused and maybe under-appreciated,” Jurca says.

The CUDC hopes to inspire others to hold events in surprising places.

“There’s a lot more potential here than we’ve really explored,” Jurca says. “There’s so much parking. Maybe we can collaborate with it instead of fighting it.”

Lake Erie Monsters Look To Start Season Hot

2011-10-06T15:16:00.007-04:00

Wednesday at the Q, the silence between pucks tinking off the goal posts and clacking onto sticks was filled with the sound of fans. These fans were whirring, though, not cheering.

I was the lone spectator for the Lake Erie Monsters’ morning practice, and while there were some nasty glove saves and wrist shots, I would have felt awkward cheering.

The Monsters, Cleveland’s American Hockey League team, are returning to the ice this weekend after the four-year-old franchise’s best season. From their first-round playoff loss last year, they are moving forward—and with great speed.

Center Ryan Stoa says the coaches have been “harping on us to do everything fast.” Shooting and passing drills were so rapid that by the time I located the puck, it had already visited five players and been kicked by a left pad.

Stoa, drafted in 2009, has played 37 games with the Monsters’ parent club, the Colorado Avalanche. The 24-year-old is one of the 12 players from last year’s Monsters roster to stay with the team for the start of this season. When more than half of your 22- or 23-person roster is made up of guys the veterans haven’t played with before, it takes some adjusting.

Trevor Cann, in his third season goaltending for the Monsters, says the team is “jelling” during practices. As the players work on power plays, breakouts, faceoffs, defensive and offensive zones, coaches are developing the lines and seeing who works best together.

This kind of team development led to a standout 2010-2011 season. The Monsters finished second in the North Division with a franchise-best 44 wins. The team’s popularity among Clevelanders grew. The Monsters had an average attendance of 6,568, sixth out of 30 AHL teams, and a league-best average playoff attendance of 8,069.

Players say they’re excited for the season opener against the Abbotsford Heat Friday night. “There is no better feeling than getting a win and hanging out with the guys afterwards,” says Cann.

After two hours of practice, some stragglers were still skating and taking turns shooting at one of the goalies. Team communications manager Sarah Jamieson told them it was time to quit.

Like the child who doesn’t want to come in at dusk, a player skated up to the bench and pleaded, “Just one more drill?”

The Monsters start their season at Quicken Loans Arena on Friday night. The puck drops at 7:30 p.m.

Restaurant Scene-Ery

2011-10-05T06:00:00.002-04:00

In terms of settings to eat and drink, the landscape has gotten much more exciting in the past week. Dante Bocuzzi and Steve Schimoler, the bold, visionary impresarios of these two new restaurant productions, each deserve a round of applause. I'm not talking about the food. What has me so jazzed at the moment are the places, not the plates. Both are something special and they couldn’t be more different.

I got my first view of Ginko, Bocuzzi’s Tokyo-style sushi lounge in Tremont, at a kickoff event last Wednesday night. I was last in here over a year ago, when construction upstairs was still in progress. This was a dark, dirty basement with a toilet in the corner. It’s hard to believe the transformation. The look is not like anything else in the town and hard to describe. My best shot: bento box, the tidy little Japanese compartmentalized container, meets Dr. Seuss … in the 22nd century. The small underground spot, tucked under Dante Restaurant, suggests a futuristic fantasy funland. One wall features irregularly shaped and back-lit glass panels in bright reds, blues and creams. It was designed by Giancarlo Calicchia, a multi-talented sculptor and painter and Bocuzzi’s business partner, and fabricated by Streets of Manhattan, a local studio. Another is covered in textured red paper that looks lacquered with black trim. Other areas are done in glossy white and black subway tile for a sort of uber-modern yin and yang effect. A couple of flat screens showed a steady stream of anime.

The room is dominated by a curving concrete sushi bar where water flows under glass. Suspended above it is a silvery drop ceiling in what I call a “fish breath” motif. It’s dotted with bubbles like the surface of a lake when the residents are biting. More counters and stools rim the perimeter. There are two spacious booths. A panel in the table can be removed and a hibachi set in the opening for on-the-spot cooking. That should make for a good time.

Over in Ohio City, at the corner of Lorain Avenue and West 25th Street, Crop, the next generation of Schimoler’s popular Warehouse district bistro and bar which closed in the spring, begins serving tomorrow night. I was there on Monday for a “housewarming” party. Housed in a former bank, built back when they were housed in palatial digs, it is without a doubt the grandest, most imposing and striking dining room in the city. My reaction on walking in midway through the remodeling was a deep inhale and an “oh my god” exhale.

The scale is over-the-top awesome. A high and ornate coffered ceiling, huge arched windows, fat columns and 1925 mural dominate. The restoration work has been meticulous, and the redesign inspired. There’s a bar at one end and space for a coffee shop and artisinal foods mini-market and wine store at the other where you can buy some of the products you taste. In between is an open kitchen with chef’s table seating at a counter. Theater lighting adds drama. Downstairs, the former vault, with its “don’t-even-think-about-breaking-in steel doors (one weighing 70,000 pounds, the other 90,000) and bronze gates, will be used for private (and surely memorable) gatherings.

And after long waits and more work than most of us can imagine, Ginko and Crop are ready for guests. So go and see what I’m talking about for yourself. Both are pretty much guaranteed to knock you out before the first bite.

Critical Mass Spins through City Streets Friday

2011-09-29T10:00:00.001-04:00

Friday night I’m going to ride my bicycle from Public Square to North Collinwood — and I’m going to do it with more than 300 of my closest friends.

This is Cleveland Critical Mass.

In 1992, a few dozen San Francisco bicyclists decided to get together once a month and simply ride their bikes. Critical Mass has since become a worldwide phenomenon. In more than 300 cities spanning the globe, people grab their bikes and just ride.

This ride will be my fourth — which makes me still a newbie by Critical Mass standards. The rides usually begin in Public Square and end at a bar in one of Cleveland’s many hip neighborhoods, where you get to chat with other pedalers. I ended up on Larchmere, in Ohio City and on Whiskey Island after my first three treks.

I realized Critical Mass’s epic scope within the first few minutes of my initial ride in June. We were a mass of bikes taking up the entire eastbound lane of Lakeside Avenue. With hundreds of people around me, and the buildings of the city encompassing us, I immediately understood the ride’s appeal.

The rides begin with a destination in mind, but the route is never predetermined. The organizers just go with the flow. Veterans of past journeys will rush to the front to “cork” intersections and let the mass of bicycles pass through safely.

Every ride has gone through some of Cleveland’s poorer areas — and this has been the most rewarding part. People come out and cheer us on. There are no pretenses to Critical Mass, so when someone asks what we’re doing this for, several riders often shout back:

“For fun!”

Laura Likes Luna

2011-09-28T06:00:00.004-04:00

I believe in bakeries like some people believe in saints and saviors. I need what they provide, and I’m convinced that living a good, happy life depends on their proximity. I am blessed to make my home in Cleveland Heights, a place that has and is close to multiple bakers of fine artisinal breads, pastries, cookies and cakes. Now I can add another to the list: Luna Bakery Café in the Cedar-Fairmount shopping district, just up the hill from University Circle.

The cases are filled with jewel-colored macaroons, crisp fruit filled galettes, trays of scones and plump croissant, sugar cookies almost too pretty to eat, nut bars and cupcakes. There’s an amazing 25-layer crepe cake and an almond meal “Luna” cake that’s so good you’d never believe it’s gluten free. These treats are the work of Bridget Thibeault and her kneading, stirring and whipping staff. Formerly known as Flour Girl, the name of the custom cake business she ran out of her home kitchen, Thibeault partnered with Tatyana Rehn and John Emerman of Stone Oven to launch this shop.

The café side of the operation has been getting lots of attention, and customers, since the place opened in June. In addition to lattes and all manner of beverages hot and cold, they serve prepared-to-order crepes and paninis. But there aren’t many seats here, and thinking of it primarily as a place to eat misses the point. This is first and foremost a high end Euro-style bakery.

They pack up pastries and cookies in bags and utilitarian by-the-dozen boxes or in beribboned gift-ready packages. Show up at dinner with one of these, and you’re sure to be invited back. Thibeault, with the heart and eye of an artist, designs special-occasion cakes, does entire dessert tables for events and caters meetings.

I work at home, alone, so there’s no stopping by for breakfast goodies to bring to the office for my co-workers. But you should. It would definitely boost morale. And I’m thinking my spirits could use a little lift, so I’m putting on my walking shoes and heading to Luna right now to get myself a biscotti. Or two. And some flourless chocolate mini-cakes for tonight’s dessert. I see a very happy husband in my future.

Chris Hodgson Finishes Close Second in Great Food Truck Race

2011-09-27T17:02:00.004-04:00

Cleveland chef Chris Hodgson, of Dim and Den Sum fame, and his newest truck, Hodge Podge Truck, made it to Sunday's finale of Food Network’s “The Great Food Truck Race.”

Dishing out lunches and dinners in cities from Vegas to Miami, competing against trucks from all over the country, Hodgson came in second against the Lime Truck from Orange County, Calif. Hodgson represented Cleveland and its burgeoning food truck scene well. We caught up with him today to hear about his cross-country journey.

Cleveland Magazine: What was the experience like, outside of what made the air?

Chris Hodgson: A lot of us were actually friends. We were all hanging out together. Jason and Jesse from the Lime Truck were absolutely stand-out characters and phenomenal chefs. It was a lot of work.

CM: Show host Tyler Florence referred to you as a fierce competitor. What is it about being from Cleveland that made you such a fierce competitor?

CH: We’re Midwesterners; we don’t ever quit. Clevelanders never quit. When they asked me what would winning mean, I said I’d finally get to bring home a championship to Cleveland. It wasn’t “I want money.” I wanted to do something great for my city. Cleveland’s got unbelievable people with unbelievable drive who are going to do everything in their power and keep fighting to the end. I love this place.

CM: The way the show was edited, it looked like you guys lost by such a slim margin. Was that how it went down?

CH: We actually made the money faster. We just couldn’t get there before them. We were parked about 45 minutes away. They were parked about 10 minutes from the beach.

CM: The other trucks were run by people who were either friends, or business partners. A few of the trucks even had two chefs. You had your sister and your girlfriend. What made you decide to take them?

CH: Oh, I didn’t.

CM: Who did?

CH: The Food Network — I applied with my chefs, yo! (laughs)

CM: Are you glad they decided to send them along with you?

CH: Absolutely, because my girlfriend and my sister are huge supporters for me. Not just on the truck, but emotionally.

CM: Aside from not coming out on top, would you change anything?

CH: Nothing. I was a winner, baby. I was a winner. I went 3,500 miles with the two girls that I love the most.

Check out our story on Hodgson from the May 2011 issue here.

My Cleveland

2011-09-21T06:00:00.002-04:00

This mini musing on the interesting and exciting things that happen in, and come from, Cleveland begins at a gallery and ends at a bar. Last week the husband and I went to the 78th Street Studios for Third Fridays. The sprawling repurposed industrial building is a hotbed of creative activity, and tenants throw open their doors to welcome visitors one night, every month. The first thing I noticed when we pulled into the parking lot was the new Touch Supper Truck. It’s hard to miss: The vehicle is garishly painted with cartoonish females and red-orange flames. It’s the mobile side of Touch Supper Club and just rolled out in August. There was a guy performing doing DJ duties so folks chowing down on tacos and sliders had some musical entertainment.

We didn’t stop, too full from an excellent dinner at home and in a hurry to get to an opening at Tregoning and Company, an art gallery. The show, called Spiritus, is a collection of compelling black and white photographs made by Elizabeth Sunday in Africa. (It's up through November and shouldn't be missed.) Though she now lives in California, Sunday was born here and has deep Cleveland roots: Her grandfather Paul B. Travis was a painter who taught at CIA for more than 30 years, and her father, Douglas Phillips, a renowned designer of stained-glass windows, had his studio here. We met James Wyman, curator, gallerist and fine arts consultant, who helped organize the show. He’s recently relocated to Northeast Ohio and is brimming with ideas and energy for the local arts community. No doubt we’ll be hearing more about him.

I ran into someone from my book club at the show. She wanted to know if I’d read The Paris Wife , the new novel by Paula McLain about Ernest Hemingway, his first wife Hadley and the six years they lived together among the literary greats who flocked to Europe in the 1920s. I’d just finished it the night before. We’ll be discussing it at our next gathering, and McLain, who lives in Cleveland Heights, will being joining us.

Next stop was the Velvet Tango Room for a nightcap, and there’s no place in this town, or any other, that better evokes the glamour and style of pre-war watering holes. Coincidentally, the last time I had a cocktail here, it was a Hemingway Daiquiri. The temperature was 40 degrees warmer, and it proved to be just the thing for a sweltering summer evening. This visit, we arrived just minutes ahead of a fill-the-house crowd and snagged the last two seats at the bar. The chill in the air prompted me to order an apple brandy sour. As always, it was perfectly made, the delicate balance of alcohol and acid achieved with just a whisper of sweetness. The husband had the potent Widow’s Kiss. We sat and sipped for a pleasant hour, talked about Sunday’s photographs and went home happy. It was a good night in Cleveland.

Interactivity meets art and technology at this year's Ingenuity Fest

2011-09-19T17:55:00.000-04:00

Through the doorway with the green awning and down a flight of steps lay a festival of sights and sounds spanning the lower level of one of Cleveland's historic bridges.

Just about a hundred feet above the river, Cleveland’s past, present and future were all on display at the 2011 Ingenuity Fest this weekend. The annual event, set up for the second year in a row on the lower, streetcar level of the Detroit-Superior Bridge, was a giant art exhibit — of sorts.

Paramount at this exhibit was interactivity. Consider the Doodle Bar by the YoyoSyndicate, a sub-group of Dr. Sketchy Cleveland.

The Doodle Bar let Ingenuity Fest-goers write whatever their hearts desired on several white walls, desks and chairs. By late Sunday afternoon, people were seen lugging around scribbled-on pieces of furniture as souvenirs.

As in the past, technology was prevalent at Ingenuity. Every installation had a QR code that could be scanned with a smartphone. The code sent users to a website containing more information on the installation or artist.

At the middle of the span, the phrase "tweets light hearts" could be seen written in chalk on the concrete poles supporting the bridge. An interactive installation, comprised of a series of hearts (similar to those in a video game), lit up progressively over the weekend as more and more people tweeted using the #ingenuityfest hashtag.

Steve Lambert's art installation "Capitalism Works for Me!" also invited viewers to participate, while provoking discussion.

Viewers could walk up to a podium and press "True" or "False" buttons to vote on whether they agreed with the sign's sentiment. A side effect (or probably the intended effect) was the conversation that often arose after someone cast a vote. At one point in the afternoon, capitalism was leading the race, but only by a slight margin.

Cleveland Museum of Art announces Ohio City gallery

2011-09-16T14:52:00.017-04:00

Come this time next year, Ohio City will have a more contemporary feel.

The Cleveland Museum of Art and the Fred and Laura Ruth Bidwell Foundation will open the exhibition space Transformer Station on West 29th Street. Built in the 1920s as a power station for the Detroit Avenue streetcar line, the Transformer Station will be renovated and expanded into an 8,000-square-foot space for art programs, exhibitions and installations.

“It’s an opportunity to extend our reach to more Northeast Ohioans, specifically to this important and vibrant West Side of the city,” said David Franklin, the art museum's director, in a press conference this morning.

The Transformer Station will be the museum's first separate space outside University Circle. “Fundamentally, it strengthens our ancient mission of benefiting all the people forever,” Franklin said.

Fred Bidwell, co-founder and co-director of the Bidwell Foundation, said they chose the building to showcase art because of its industrial feel. And there's an huge crane on the ceiling that can lift 15 tons. Who doesn't need that?

“The diversity, the grit, the intimacy, the urbanity of Ohio City, with its dynamic art scene, we felt was a perfect place for this showplace for the contemporary art,” said Bidwell in the press conference.

The hopes are to have the Transformer Station open in late 2012. Franklin wants to encourage curators and collaborators to use the space as a laboratory and set up installations more spontaneously. This space will also allow young and local artists to show their work on the same floor as international artists.

City councilman Joe Cimperman, who represents Ohio City, thanked the Bidwells for opening the Transformer Station. “This neighborhood takes this gift very seriously,” he said. “We take you as gifts very seriously. We cherish what you’re doing here, and we are all too well aware that you could have done this anywhere.”

Cimperman predicted the gallery would become important to the neighborhood's future. “One day, in this building there will be children like me — who grew up on East 74th Street — [who,] but for the arts, would not be able to live the life they lived. So, if you want to know what you are doing today for this community, look 20 years from now to the generation that you are fostering.”

UFOs on the Cuyahoga: Ingenuity Fest 2011

2011-09-15T12:27:00.012-04:00

If you see a flying saucer near the Detroit-Superior Bridge this weekend, don’t be alarmed. That’s just part of the Squonk Opera, the hallmark piece of Ingenuity Fest 2011.

“The Squonk is sort of a modern opera which will be performed outdoors,” says director of programming James Krouse. “There’s going to be a UFO that looks like it’s crashed into the side of the viaduct.”

Ingenuity, founded in 2004, has hopped around the city from East Fourth Street to PlayhouseSquare. Last year, it found its newest home, the lower level of the Detroit-Superior Bridge.

“When you say the word ‘festival’ to people, a lot of times they think of a street fair: some tents, food and booze,” says Krouse. “But at Ingenuity Fest I think our ambition is much more along the lines of something like SXSW in Austin, Texas." Krouse hopes Ingenuity, like SXSW, will become a cultural exposition well-known outside its home city.

Kicking off tomorrow evening and wrapping up Sunday night, Ingenuity Fest celebrates art and technology with interactive exhibitions, performances and demonstrations. Onlookers can react and respond to different pieces via text and navigate through a maze using only their ears.

“Art and science are not two separate things,” says Krouse. “They’re this one continuum. We show that in a couple of different ways.”

Some of the performances literally tie art and science together. Krouse recommends Erica Mott's "The Victory Project," a dance of sorts. “She integrates technology into her movements. She’s actually tethered to a sound operator, so her motions actually produce sound.”

With more than 20 hours of programming, including more than 110 scheduled musical acts, where does one begin?

“There’s a lot to take in.” Krouse says, laughing. “I would pick out one or two things that really grab your attention, particularly if it’s a performance. Pick out those few things you want to do, but also give yourself the time to wander a bit. That’s part of the pleasure of being here.”

Locavores Come Out to Play

2011-09-14T06:00:00.003-04:00

The words “local food” don’t just refer to stuff you eat. They represent a transformation in how we think about food: where it comes from, who raises and produces it, how it’s grown, and what’s required to get it to our table. It’s a revolution and a lifestyle. There’s a local food scene and a movement. All these aspects get their due at RIPE, a three-day, family friendly festival organized and hosted by the Cleveland Botanical Garden. From Sept. 23-25, a tent city and harvest heaven will spring up at their doorstep on the grassy swath of University Circle known as Wade Oval.

There will be a farmers market filled with seasonal bounty, cooking demos, wine and beer tastings, and a culinary competition. You can learn to smoke trout, raise chickens, make pestos, dry herbs, or turn your backyard into an edible landscape. Kids can try cidermaking and veggie carving. Food trucks are rolling in, and restaurants are setting up booths to be sure nobody goes home hungry. Lots of live music provides a soundtrack for the fun. Early risers should plan on showing up Sunday morning for the pancake breakfast. Everything you need to know including hours and ticket information is here.

Full disclosure: I was on the planning committee this year, the second for Cleveland’s Ripe fest. You could say that makes me biased. On the other hand, it means I know the huge effort that went into putting this together and feel sure it’s going to be something special.

Those with some serious money to spend ($150 per person, CBG members, $185 non-members) should make reservations for the kick-off benefit Autumn's Eve Dinner on Thursday night, Sept. 22. People are still talking about the last one, calling it magical and memorable. This time around the outdoor feast will include grass-fed beef from Miller Livestock, Amish farm chicken from Gerber’s, heirloom tomatoes grown by students on Green Corps Urban Farms, vegetables from Veggie Valley Farm, fruit from Greenfield Berry Farm in Peninsula, and cheese made by Middlefield Original Cheese Co-op. Chefs Douglas Katz of fire food & drink; Tony Smoody with Bon Appétit; and Ben Bebenroth, owner of Spice of Life Catering will be turning this local treasure trove into a four-course meal.

Everything happens rain or shine. Maybe we’ll be lucky and Mother Nature will beam down on this gathering of her locavore fans with a big bright sunny smile.

photos by Dave Brown Images, courtesy of Cleveland Botanical Garden

Play House's new home, renovated Allen Theater, debuts

2011-09-13T13:39:00.005-04:00

The Cleveland Play House welcomed theater fans and curious downtowners into its new home, the renovated Allen Theatre in PlayhouseSquare, last night. Hundreds came to see the renovated theater, departing on tours every few minutes.

The Allen, which began life in 1921 as a cavernous 2,800-seat movie house and hosted Broadway plays, ballet and opera over the past 20 years, has been remade as a comfortable, intimate 500-seat theater. Inside the now-smaller theater, the historic ceiling and walls are still visible behind acoustic reflectors. The new seats are soft and huge, the leg room generous, a big change from the cramped rows of the Play House's former theaters at its location near the Cleveland Clinic.

Tour-takers walked through the classic 1921 lobby and into a new inner lobby, a very contemporary-looking space with moody lighting and glass partitions, created where the Allen's distant rear seating used to be.

The renovation is daring, a big change to a historic theater. But the Allen has been little-used in recent years, and its 2,500-seat capacity wasn't a good fit for the Play House. The new, smaller space has about the same number of seats as the theaters in its former home.

The tours explored the seating, the stage, and backstage areas. In a dressing room and an alcove, master's degree theater students from CWRU enacted scenes from plays that professional actors will put on later in the season. Two undergrads from Cleveland State, which will also use the new theater, performed a scene from Jean-Paul Sartre's existentialist classic No Exit. Not part of the tour were the Allen's new second stage and lab space, still under construction.

The Play House's season begins Friday with The Life of Galileo. To read more about the Play House's move, read our article from the September issue, "Second Act."

Muses inspire at Pandemonium as Cleveland Public Theater receives $1m grant

2011-09-12T07:30:00.001-04:00

The muses flitted onto the stage in sparkling, raggedy dresses, upstaging the proper professor droning on about Urania, the Greek muse of astronomy. “No need to look to the past!” a muse intoned, and the professor beat it, ceding the stage to a multiplying troupe of dancers evoking the leaps of creativity.

“Muses are everywhere,” the lead muse declared. “Be a muse for each other. Remember, the muse is you!”

From there, hundreds of guests fanned out across Cleveland Public Theater’s campus at Pandemonium, the theater company’s annual fundraiser. The event, held Saturday, is one of the biggest parties in Cleveland, and this year, the occasion for the nonprofit's announcement that it's received a $1 million grant.

The theater’s supporters mingled with 250 performing artists, including costumed muses, jesters, black-clad winged fairies, birdmen with beaks angling from their foreheads, Mexican Day of the Dead skeletons, and haunting Mardi-Gras style giant puppets.

Twenty-two indoor and outdoor stages each hosted performances pretty much nonstop for two hours. Early rain sent crowds indoors. In the former orthodox church’s lower level, renamed the Bruise Me Basement, we were turned away from Stephen Farkas’ short play “A Peculiar Case of Execution” by a barbarian with a blood-tinged eye. The prisoners’ cell was very crowded, he explained, but he invited us to return a few minutes later. “We execute them about five times tonight,” he said.

Outside, as the rain died down, Ray McNiece and his band Tongue-in-Groove performed The Revenge of Cleveland, a blend of music and poetry. McNiece’s spoken-word rant, set off by a tiny nouvelle-cuisine dinner in Boston, became a paean to local comfort food, including “a meal as profound and murky as an immigrant cathedral” and a chicken dumpling soup with floating fat globules “like the hundred suns that never shine in gray Cleveland.” Then the full band, including an insistent harmonica and horn, propelled his “Love Song to Cleveland,” which got the Mexican skeletons dancing.

Down the theater’s catacomb-like side passageways, one small space hosted back-to-back sorts by local playwrights David Hansen and Eric Coble. Hansen’s “DO DO that VooDoo,” set at Cleveland Heights’ Alcazar Hotel in 1936, is built on actual lines from Plain Dealer theater critic William McDermott’s florid, condescending, deeply ambivalent review of Orson Welles’ all-black Macbeth. (Copies of McDermott’s review were handed out to the audience after the short.) The play imagines Welles, at the Alcazar’s bar, duping a starchy yet tipsy McDermott into handing over a telephone so he and an assistant can dictate the review – an almost believable explanation for McDermott’s writing style.

Coble’s “Waiting For the Matinee,” performed by two actresses sitting in the first row of seats, imagines an audience of two waiting to watch a production of Waiting for Godot. The first and last lines of Samuel Beckett’s absurdist play (“Nothing to be done” and “Let’s go”), and presumably the last stage direction (“They do not move”), frame the short. In between, it’s an entertaining satire of the rewards, trials, hopes and disappointments of frequent theater patrons.

Back in the main hall, executive artistic director Raymond Bobgan shook up the usual acknowledgments and thank-yous with a big reveal. He announced that the Kresge Foundation has awarded CPT a $1 million grant for upkeep on its theaters. The award, part of a $7 million fundraising campaign, addresses the avant-garde company’s challenges in mounting productions amid the Gordon Square Theater’s old-Cleveland run-down grandeur.

CPT staged a bit of political fence-mending as it honored city councilman Joe Cimperman and his wife, ParkWorks associate director Nora Romanoff, with its Pan Award. The theater invited Dennis Kucinich to introduce Cimperman, a surprise move since the councilman, once a young ally of Kucinich, ran aggressively against him for Congress in 2008. Kucinich seized the peacemaking opportunity, praising Cimperman’s sense of community and creativity.

For Pandemonium’s finale, CPT stuck to a successful trio from years past: a performance by an aerial acrobat in a silk hammock, a grand entrance by several human desert tables, and two kitschy-cool sets by singer Lounge Kitty, whose ever-expanding repertoire now ranges from Elvis’ “Suspicious Minds” to Rick James’ “Super Freak.”

An Italian Thing

2011-09-07T08:00:00.002-04:00

The husband and I just returned from two amazing weeks in Tuscany. Eating the local cuisine and drinking the region’s wines was a centerpiece of our vacation, and I’m already jonesing for those wonderful leisurely meals. We ate cheeses, fresh baked breads, incredible cured meats, a different kind of pasta every day and always added a pitcher or bottle of some regional red. I never got tired of any of it. We also sampled some extraordinary top tier wines during visits to three wineries, Argiano, Il Molino di Grace, and Rocca di Frassinello. Big thanks to Flour chef and owner Paul Minnillo; Rudy Basille of Vias Imports, which specializes in Italian wines; and Bill Barefoot with Grand Cru Wine Company for help in setting up these memorable tours and tastings.

photo of our first lunch by Barney Taxel, Taxel Image Group

Imagine how happy I was to hear that Barefoot will be pouring some VIAS wines at A Taste of Little Italy, the 14th annual fundraiser for Holy Rosary Montessori School, on Sunday, Sept. 18. Might be a chance for me to recapture some of my Tuscan joy. He’ll be in good company: A number of distributors will be showcasing their Italian and Italian-style California wines; restaurants from the neighborhood and beyond, will serve appetizers and signature dishes; and bakers are providing traditional breads and sweets. It all happens from 3-7 p.m. in the schoolyard behind the church on Mayfield Road.

There’s live music, silent and live auctions, and a raffle for a trip to Italy that includes airfare. Given what we spent to get there, this is a very big deal. $10 gets you a chance to win, and it’s a good investment in so many ways. Purchase online now, along with entry tickets that give you access to all the food and drink ($70 per person in advance, $75 at the “door”), or call 216-421-0700. Pony up: the school, the kids and your taste buds will say "grazie mille!"

Pitcher Perfect

2011-09-01T13:19:00.009-04:00

It's a fun day at Cleveland Magazine. Great Lakes Publishing chairman Lute Harmon Sr. threw out the first pitch at today's Cleveland Indians game against the Oakland Athletics.

A Happy Hour Mission

2011-08-31T17:09:00.010-04:00

It’s my first summer working in downtown Cleveland, so some friends of mine and I made it our mission to sample downtown restaurants by hitting up their happy hours. We tried a new place each week, exploring some of the city’s best dining for a fraction of the usual cost.

I’m singling out those that stood out to us, but I encourage you to strike out on a happy hour path of your own. Some places were mediocre, but most offered delicious food and drinks at reasonable prices.

Our first stop was Chinato on East 4th Street. I was a fan of Zach Bruell’s restaurants already, but Chinato’s 4:30-6:30 p.m. happy hour still left a lasting impression. I chose a white wine ($5) and shared three appetizers with a friend for $5 each, enough to fill two grumbling stomachs. The gnocchi dish was perfect: light, tender and buttery. A panini served with fries and fennel sausage pizza rounded out our carb trio. Drinks range from $3 for Great Lakes drafts to $5 for featured wine and cocktails.

Bar Louie on West 6th Street surprised us with fabulous $5 select appetizers during the 4-7 p.m. weekday happy hour. We opted for spinach and artichoke dip and the bruschetta pomodoro. The dip, made fresh in the kitchen, is heavier on the green than cream, just how I like it. When I needed advice, our server pointed out her favorite martinis and suggested the best cocktails for my taste. I went with a Pom Peche martini ($5), a light, peach alternative to the bitter original.

Zocalo stood out for mixing drink specials with a prime location. Many restaurants only serve happy hour at the bar, but at Zocalo, you can enjoy it on the patio, where the East 4th street scene is exciting after a day in an office. My sugar-rimmed mangrita (mango margarita) was sweet and tropical, fruity rather than cool. The large bowl of fresh chips never ran out, even though we never stopped munching. For atmosphere and great prices, including $5 margaritas and $5 select appetizers, Zocalo’s 2-7 p.m. happy hour is a hot spot.

The Greenhouse Tavern, across the street, remained a happy hour quest left unfinished. We chose to sit on the rooftop patio, a great summer destination, but that meant we couldn’t order food or enjoy any drink discounts. At the first-floor bar, the 5-7 p.m. happy hour includes reduced prices on menu items and drinks and an exclusive: the moule frites (mussels and fries, $13) are only offered on the happy hour menu.

Cool News

2011-08-31T06:00:00.002-04:00

There are enough new places to get a scoop or three that I thought the subject warranted a round-up. I’m listing them here with a few descriptive and informative details. I’ve visited some but not all of them. Since this isn’t a review, that shouldn’t matter. Besides, when it comes to ice cream and gelato, individual tastes and preferences rule. I say indulge in what you love. That’s what I do. And given how serious and dedicated each of these dessert entrepreneurs is, I feel confident that every spot on the list is worth at least a try and likely multiple visits. If you’ve been, tell the rest of us what you got and what you liked. The information (here, and from those who add their comments) is sure to make the last few weeks of summer extra sweet.
photo by Barney Taxel, Taxel Image Group

-Ohio City Ice Cream Company (formerly Dari Delite), mentioned in the July issue of Cleveland Magazine, is in its second season. People have been walking up to the window at this stand for more than 50 years. You can still get a swirl of regular vanilla soft serve but since Bob Mino and his wife Nancy took over, things have gotten noticeably more creative. They’re making egg custards; exotic fruit sorbets; and dense, rich ice cream, liberally studded with goodies such as chocolate covered pretzels, candied kiwi, dried strawberries and bits of baklava. The ricotta fig, fruit soaked in Gewurtztraminer, is pure genius. West 44th Street and Bridge

-Sweet Moses is a recreation of an old-fashioned soda fountain in the Gordon Square Arts District complete with restored wrought-iron chairs and a marble counter. The ice cream for sundaes, scoops, cones, floats, shakes, malts and phosphates is churned in-house. The waffle cones and hot fudge sauce come out of the same kitchen. Hand-packed pints are available for take-home. 6800 Detroit Ave.

-Rosso Gelato brings the look and taste of Italy to Rocky River. A modern minimalist interior is the backdrop for Charles Bartell’s traditional northern style gelato. The cooler usually holds a dozen different flavors. Crowd favorites are salted caramel, stracciatella (vanilla cream with ribbons of chocolate) and chocolate hazelnut. He also makes twelvee water-based, dairy free sorbettos. The most popular are nero (chocolate) and four-berry fruit of the forest. Staff will blast-freeze your pints, so they arrive home in perfect condition. It takes twenty minutes, so call ahead or be willing to wait. 19056 Old Detroit Road, Rocky River photo courtesy of Nancy Bartell

-The Sweet Spot, across from the Beck Center, describes itself as an American gelateria with a twist. Owner Celeste Blau kicked off her first season in July. She’s using Ohio milk, local seasonal fruit when she can get it, and mostly organic and natural ingredients. The Lineup includes some out-of-the-ordinary flavors like carrot cake, smoked s'mores and chocolate mint cayenne. 17806 Detroit Ave., Lakewood

-Lilly Handmade Chocolates is now making small-batch ice creams and sorbets, changing flavors, Amanda Montague tells me, as often as she changes her hair color. She and husband Josh expanded into the space next door this year, so you can sit down for dessert. Among the more unique options are beer floats and a "Choc-cuterie Board," a spread of sugared and decadent mousses, "pates," ganaches and frozen confections. 761 Starkweather Ave.

-Jeni’s, dipping and waffle cone stacking since April, this is an outpost of the Columbus-based company known for using Ohio cream and making a rich, super-premium product. Flavors take you on a trip around the world and into territory where ice cream has never gone before: Bangkok Peanut, Ugandan Vanilla Bean, Sweet Corn and Black Raspberries, and Goat Cheese with Red Cherries. Tables inside. 67 N. Main St., Chagrin Falls

Tomato Time

2011-08-24T06:00:00.002-04:00

Most grocery stores sell just three or four kinds of tomatoes. Few people have any idea that that there are thousands of varieties grown around the world. Joe Clutz, a part-time farmer in Newberry, grows 97 distinctive types of tomatoes, and a few years back I had the chance to spend an afternoon sampling some of them with him. The husband documented the event, and then ate the subjects along with me. There were rounds, ovals and heart shapes; one that looked like a red chile pepper; and another that showed a starburst center when halved. The names were as colorful as the fruits. We had Snow Whites, Sun Golds, Rainbows, Ukranian Pears, Banana Legs, scallop-edged Ponderosa Reds, grassy flavored Black Plums, tart Cherokee Purples sugary Ground Cherries, herbally Green Zebras, striped Hillbillies, and Yellow Stuffers that looked exactly like bell peppers. We were both wowed by the differences in appearance, texture and taste.

photo by Barney Taxel, Taxel Image Group

You have two opportunities for the same kind of experience. Countryside Farmers' Market at Howe Meadow holds an annual tomato tasting. This year it's happening Aug. 27 from from 9 a.m. until closing at noon. Market manager Beth Stropki Knorr tells me that more than 130 varieties are represented at the market throughout the season, and she expects more than 30 will be available that day. Drop by anytime to pop pieces in your mouth. Individual growers will also be offering bites of their best and will have plenty on hand to sell by the pound. At 9 a.m., food writer Marilou Suszko is your guide through a flight of tomato juices at the cooking demo tent; 30 minutes later staff from The Greenhouse Tavern start slicing and dicing for a “friendly” recipe competition called The Salsa Smackdown. Audience members sample the results, choose the winner and then get to enjoy what’s left of the main ingredient.

September is typically a good month for tomatoes in Northeast Ohio, and Na Olson is hoping the weather gods don’t let her down this year. If there’s enough rain, but not too much and not all at once, and temperatures hold steady, she and husband Cory will have plenty of ripe and ready fruit for their 2011 Tomato Tasting on Sept. 10. It’s held from 3-6 p.m. at The Little Red Truck Farm, in Norwalk, where they grow more than 100 heirloom varieties from seed. “We usually have quite a spread,” she says, and most are types people have never even heard of let alone tried.” She ticks off a list of intriguing names: Mortgage Lifter, Kellogg Breakfast, Golden Monarch, Aunt Ruby’s Germen Green, Zogola, Japanese Black Trifele and Cosmonaut Volkov.

photo by Na Olson

Visitors can taste whatever was picked that morning, but the Olsons do want something in return: your opinion. They ask everyone to complete a rating sheet for each tomato, ranking varieties for sweetness, texture, acidity and overall “tomatoeness.” This helps them decide what to grow, and what not to, in the future. If they have enough of a harvest, tomatoes will be for sale along with other things raised on the property, which you’re invited to explore. The event is open to public and free but donations are appreciated. This year the money raised will go to Heifer International, a nonprofit that provides animals for food and breeding to needy communities around the world as a way to combat hunger. Na’s instructions are to park in the field, walk through the garden (ignore the weeds, or if you’re so inclined, pull a few). I’d add: Bring all your tomato questions. She’s a veritable walking Wikipedia of information and has great stories about some of those names.

Avengers aftermath

2011-08-23T15:35:00.004-04:00

East Ninth Street, ravaged by a superhero battle.

Looks like someone's finally found a use for the Ameritrust Tower. It really does look like a hive for an evil alien race.

Food Find

2011-08-17T06:00:00.001-04:00

While working on a piece about eating your way around Little Italy that appears in this month’s issue of Cleveland Magazine, I made my first visit to Murray Hill Market. The combination mini-grocery store, gourmet shop and prepared-food heaven has been open since January. It’s a pretty place, a revival of the old corner store (there was one in this beautifully renovated and restored building in 1922) only with more and better food. On one side of the space, shelves and coolers are packed with staples (do pints of Jeni’s ice cream fall in that category, I wonder, they have every single flavor), a small selection of fresh produce, and specialty imports and artisan products. The area to the right is the source of all the enticing smells that fill the room. This is where proprietor Michele Buckholtz, a fast talker with the boundless energy of a kid on a sugar high, preps and cooks. The area is so small and equipment challenged that it barely qualifies as a kitchen. Yet somehow she manages to turn out an impressive array of restaurant-quality, made-from-scratch dishes.

There’s a cooler filled with deli meats, sold by the pound, and a variety of salads, a pasta of the day, and a changing lineup of sides. Two bites and I was hooked on the Tuscan potato salad. She roasts the turkey and prime rib that go in her sandwiches; prepares a different soup or chowder daily, such as vegan minestrone, black lentil with ginger, chilled cucumber and melon, beef noodle, chicken Florentine; and gets creative with her sauces and spreads (the spicy Sriracha mayo is a condiment that’s easy to love). She does some classics, including veal picatta and eggplant parmesan; international things like Israeli couscous, Lebanese green beans and tomatoes, Cuban rice salad with roasted corn.; and brings play and pizzazz to specials (a random sampling from the past couple of months includes corn cakes with toasted cumin seeds and cilantro ricotta, burgers stuffed with scallions and Gorgonzola, and an Asian Philly). A few tables outside for immediate gratification. But this stuff is made and packed to travel.

I was surprised to learn that David Budin helps out here. I know him as a musician and a writer with a quirky sense of humor. It seems he’s also a fine cook. Isn’t that too many talents for a single person? Among his creations is the most excellent pastissimo, a combination of tortellini, artichoke hearts, red peppers, black olives and mayonnaise blended with a generous measure of pesto. His other job is to post the specials on the Market’s Facebook group page, which he does, with great detail and the occasional one-liner.

Once I discovered how wonderful Murray Hill Market is, I really regretted waiting so long to get there. Don’t make the same mistake. Your tastebuds will thank you. And if you bring home two of Michele’s amazing porchetta sandwiches (pulled pork slow topped with sauteed kale, toasted garlic and shaved Pecorino Romano), and share with somebody else, they’ll thank you too. They might even mention what a great person you are in their next status update.

Filming for "The Avengers" starts off with a bang

2011-08-16T09:12:00.013-04:00

The camera was in place. Police demanded everyone stand back. Crew members shouted, “Cover your ears!” The crowd of onlookers quieted in anticipation as the director yelled “Rolling!” A thunderous roar sounded as fire from dozens of explosions rumbled down East Ninth Street, erupting into one large blast. Cars flipped. Smoke billowed and then, in a matter of seconds, it was over.

Monday was Marvel Studios's first day of filming for "The Avengers" on the streets of Cleveland. East 9th Street between Euclid and Prospect Avenue will be closed until the end of the month. Employees at Medical Mutual caught a video of the explosion from their office that overlooked the action. Bystanders also posted videos of the scene to YouTube.

Marvel Studios will film throughout Cleveland for the remainder of the month, closing streets in the process. Euclid Avenue from East 6th to East 12th streets will be closed Aug. 15-24, Walnut Avenue from East 9th to East 12th streets will be closed Aug. 22-Sept. 2 and South Roadway from Superior to Ontario avenues will be closed f Aug. 17-30. Marvel will also film at the Detroit-Superior Bridge on August 29. The cast and crew will also take to the Chevrolet Powertrain Building in Parma on August 23-24, where more explosions are expected.

The movie combines popular Marvel Studios superhero franchises Iron Man, Thor and Captain America: The First Avenger and stars Robert Downey Jr., Chris Hemsworth, Scarlet Johansson, Samuel L. Jackson, Mark Ruffalo, Chris Evans and Jeremy Renner. It will hit theaters May 4, 2012

Midwest Reggae Fest turns 20

2011-08-12T10:30:00.006-04:00

In the land of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, the reggae music scene often takes a back burner until the annual Midwest Reggae Fest rolls around. Organizer and Cleveland-area DJ Packy Malley is once again bringing a deep lineup to this year's 20th installment, which returns to Nelson Ledges Quarry Park in Garretsville, Ohio, (45 minutes east of Cleveland) this weekend (Aug. 12-14).

Tropical reggae rhythms will fill the air from noon until 11 p.m. each day, including Sunday, which used to be a half-day affair. This year, concertgoers will be treated to another night of music with the opportunity to stay over until Monday morning. And there is another big change that veterans of the annual festival will welcome: Air-conditioned restrooms with flush toilets and sinks. "[I figured] if I could take the biggest fear people have with camping and turn it into a positive, it would benefit everybody," Malley says.

A $95 tickets covers concert and camping fees. Ice and firewood will be available to buy and you're welcome to BYOB (but absolutely no glass bottles). To find out more, visit midwestreggaefest.com — Hallie Rybka

12001 state Route 282 (Nelson Ledges Road), Garretsville, OhioTickets: $95, all weekend; $75 starting Saturday; $50 starting Sunday. Fees include camping through Monday morning.

SoHo at Momocho

2011-08-10T06:00:00.004-04:00

Chefs Nolan Konkoski and Eric Williams have come up with a cool and clever twist on the pop up restaurant idea. For one night, on Aug. 22, Momocho, Williams’ Ohio City place, becomes SoHo Kitchen, Konkoski’s new spot a few blocks away on West 25th Street that’s due to open in mid-September. To pull off this bit of culinary theater, they’re changing everything from the sign out front to the printed menus and the food on the plate.

The two guys have some history: Konkoski worked at Momocho for six years. In fact, he helped open it. Williams, excited to help out a friend, colleague, and soon-to-be neighbor, told me “this is going to be a fun fantastic blow-it-out-of-the-water event with lots of surprises.”

Meant to spark some buzz about the restaurant to come, this reservations-only teaser meal offers a preview of the Southern-inspired, modern accented fare Konkoski and his partner (in life and business) Molly Smith plan to serve, along with some of the cocktails and beers that will be on their list. There will be a three-four selections in each category: appetizers, entrees, desserts, and drinks. Prices will range from $8 to $18 per item. Given the name, an acronym for SOuthern HOspitality, I expect they'll also be dishing out a warm friendly welcome, too.

There are only 100 seats available throughout the night from 6-9 p.m. To be sure you get in on the shrimp and grits and guarantee your portion of chicken and waffles, better grab the phone and call 216-694-2122 right now.

Just Peachy

2011-08-03T06:00:00.003-04:00

The New York Times Quotation of the Day last Thursday stopped me in my sweaty tracks: "The key to a good peach is a hot night. What makes it miserable for humans makes it perfect for peaches." -Will McGehee, a Georgia peach grower.

No air conditioners in my house, just fans. Sleeping comfortably has been … challenge. But when I read this my perspective changed. My suffering suddenly seemed connected to a higher purpose that promised rewards, big rewards. Because after all, is there anything better than biting into the sweet yellow flesh of a fresh ripe peach, so full of juice that it runs down your arm? If the oven-like conditions of our bedroom were somehow part of the natural chain of events that was producing an amazing crop of peaches, then my clammy tossing and turning doesn’t seem quite so bad.

Peaches have begun showing up at area farmers markets. And the ones we’ve been eating leave no doubt in my mind that the prize is worth the price. They’re absolutely incredible. We have many chefs in town who make it their business to use seasonal local produce, and I started wondering what they’re doing with this bounty. I tossed the question out into the social media stream and some mouthwatering responses washed up on my digital shores. photo by Barney Taxel, Taxel Image Group

-Heather Haviland is putting peach-strawberry compote on waffles at Lucky’s Café.
-At Americano, Vytauras Sasnauskas plans to be making tomato peach gazpacho, tomato peach burata salad and a grilled local pork chop with peach mostarda.
- Jennifer Plank of Greenhouse Tavern told me they’re bringing back bacon-wrapped peaches soaked in Agra dolce and served with white onion soubise. She also mentioned “dabbling” in a saffron tart with braised endive and peach with a bitter caramel.
- For Washington Place Bistro, Jonathan Guest is doing a peach jalapeno barbecue on St Louis-style ribs with creamed Ohio sweet corn.

I was really excited to hear that Brandt Evans is canning them so the rest of us can enjoy them at Pura Vida when the season is long past. If you’re tempted to do the same, or maybe make some pies and cobblers or jars of jam and chutney, consider planning a picking day at Scenic Ridge Farm near Wooster to get your main ingredient. It belongs to the Bauman family, who have been farming in the region since 1929. There are 3,500 peach trees, about 25 different varieties, among them Redhavens, White Ladies, Starfires, John Boys and Contenders. Take home a few pounds or a bushel basket full. It’s as pretty place, with a hilltop view of 84 acres of farmland, and visitors are welcome to picnic.

East Fourth Street author speaks today at Pickwick and Frolic

2011-08-02T10:31:00.015-04:00

Alan Dutka calls East Fourth Street the first of Cleveland's 21st century triumphs.

The retired businessman-turned-author says the one-block strip, which contains many of the city's most popular restaurants, is changing people's perceptions of the city. Dutka's book, East Fourth Street: The Rise, Decline and Rebirth of an Urban Cleveland Street gives readers a historical insight into the now famous strip.

Readers can learn about the all-female orchestra that performed on East Fourth in the 1920s, the Opera House that hosted the popular Ziegfeld Follies, and the restaurant opposite the Opera House's stage door that would give actors fuel during quick intermissions.

Today, you can find Dutka on the street itself. The author is hosting a book talk at Pickwick and Frolic from 4 to 6 p.m. to discuss the history of East Fourth. We caught up with Dutka this morning and found out why the century-old street is a Cleveland gem.

Cleveland Magazine: What was your goal in writing this book?

Alan Dutka: My biggest goal was interviewing the people who made [East] Fourth Street what it is today from what it was 20 years ago. There's a really good story about how a very limited number of people can accomplish a lot if they put their mind to it. We’re talking two to three people who had the vision to turn a deteriorating street into an exciting place for tourists and the people of Northern Ohio.

CM: You delved deep into the history of Cleveland to write this book. What is an interesting piece of history of East Fourth Street that you discovered?

AD: The story of the Euclid Avenue Opera House [Cleveland's most prestigious theater from 1875 to 1922, located at present-day Pickwick and Frolic]. A lot of people know the opera house was there, but in the text I tried to emphasize the human interest part of it.

CM: If you could describe East Fourth during the 1940s and 1950s in one word, what would it be?

AD: Deteriorating. By and large, it was an area that continued to decline. Today it’s the same kind of vibrant area that it once was 100 years ago, but in between you had three-quarters of a century where there really was a decline.

CM: And today the street has restaurants that are known on a national level. How will this status help Cleveland evolve?

AD: With all the nostalgia that you hear today, you never really hear about great restaurants in Cleveland, and what I’m getting at is restaurants the New York Times would write about. But that’s happening today, and it’s something that has never happened in Cleveland before.

More Dirt

2011-07-27T06:00:00.008-04:00

Last week I wrote a post titled One Night [Farm] Stands about a couple of special fieldside dinners. Turns out there’s a veritable bumper crop of chefs going rural this summer. More meals cooked and served where animals are raised and produce is grown are scheduled for August, so I’m spreading the word.

Jim Denevan, founder of Outstanding in the Field, is the unofficial granddaddy of the forks-in-the-field concept. He started doing it in California in 1999 and later took the events on the road, partnering with acclaimed regional chefs around the country. The bus (there really is one) stops at Thaxton’s Organic Garlic, a picturesque 10-acre spread in Hudson on Friday, Aug. 5, 2011. Fred Thaxton, a science teacher at Cleveland Heights High School, and wife Lisa, in the same profession, started planting as a hobby in 2000. They now harvest a dozen varieties that are prized by local chefs and sold at area farmers markets. The menu is in the more-than-able hands of our own Jonathon Sawyer, of Greenhouse Tavern and Noodlecat fame, so no doubt the food will be extraordinary. garlic harvest at Thaxton family farm

But be prepared for some sticker shock: The price, $180 per person, is set by Denevan’s organization, not Sawyer. If this doesn’t scare you off, best to make your reservations immediately to be sure of getting a seat at the communal table.

Next up is an Emerging Chefs shindig on the evening of Friday, Aug. 19, with Kimberly McCune. She’s the founder/owner, with partner Scott Roitblat who’ll be cooking with her, of Vine and Dine, a company that offers catering and personal chef services with an emphasis on healthy, locally sourced products. They’re calling this casual family-style supper in Geauga County ReHival because McCune is introducing her very own microbrew, ReHive Ale. It will be produced by Buckeye Beer Engine and available to the public in September, which just happens to be national honey month. But guests at this “Return to Earth Dinner” on Meadowlane Farms in Newbury, five minutes from Chardon, will get first sips of these suds along with dishes made from ingredients gathered within a 50 mile radius of where you’ll be eating. Go to the website to purchase tickets ($69.57 each and get information about overnight accommodations.

Plated Landscapes, the on-the-farm dinner series created by Ben Bebenroth of Spice of Life Catering, has been going strong since 2006. These well-planned and perfectly executed multicourse feasts combine the trappings of fine dining with the laid-back beauty of natural settings. He has three scheduled for this month that aren’t sold out … yet: Saturday, Aug. 13, Muddy Fork Farm in Wooster; Friday, Aug. 19, Auburn Twin Oaks Winery in Auburn; and Friday, Aug. 26, Morgan Farm Stay in Ashland. To make reservations, get driving and ask questions about the menus, call 216-432-9090 or email jess@spiceoflifecaters.com with the subject "Plated Landscapes." Check out the online calendar to see what’s planned for September and October.

Muddy Fork Farm, Plated Landscapes, 2010

Mango Hometown Tour challenges chefs from Crop, Moxie

2011-07-25T13:37:00.023-04:00

With the help of 160 mangoes, one Cleveland chef's true talent will come to fruition.

His talent for cooking with mangoes, that is.

The National Mango Board will bring its Mango Hometown Tour to Cleveland this Friday, July 29. Chef Steve Schimoler of Crop Bistro & Bar and Moxie chef Jonathan Bennett will face off from 3:30 to 5 p.m. at Moxie. Each will create a mango-inspired seafood dish with a Cleveland flair, and three local experts will judge to determine a winner.

Bennett, who often creates desserts, salads and sauces with mangoes at Moxie, will be making a combination plate.

"My dish includes a mango and crab fritter with mango ketchup and a green mango slaw," he says.

While Bennett and Schimoler cook, guests will learn how to cut the fruit and get the chance to taste different mangoes and mango-inspired drinks.

"Most people should go to this event to learn how to cut a mango," laughs Bennett. "They're not the easiest things to cut, but I truly think they're the most sensual fruits."

Attending the Mango Taste-Off is free to the public with a reservation.

One Night [Farm] Stands

2011-07-20T08:00:00.004-04:00

Over the past couple of years, the practice of dishing up fine meals out where the ingredients are grown and the animals graze has become a nationwide trend. The idea is to encourage people to eat locally by taking them to the source of their food and introducing them to the growers that live and work in their own backyards. Real chefs bring their professional expertise along with utensils, servers and place settings. Tables are arranged in meadows, barns or orchards. It’s restaurant dining without … the restaurant. The experience offers a new way to enjoy a dinner. It’s caught on in a big way here, and two area chefs are jumping on the hay wagon this month. They’re inviting guests to trek beyond the city limits for fun and feasting. The beautiful settings are provided by Mother Nature. Think of these events as fancy picnics where someone else does the work. All you have to do is show up, eat and watch the sun set.

The first of these forks in the field evenings happens on July 25 at Covered Bridge Gardens in Ashtabula County. Your hosts are The Prochko’s, Mick, Kay and their son Steve, who own the 160-acre farm, and Brian Doyle, a personal chef and caterer. Long an advocate for eating seasonally and locally, Doyle put a twist on his latest venture, Sowfood, an urban farm and CSA (community supported agriculture): He not only plants and harvests fresh produce for shareholders, he also cooks it. The dinner is a fundraiser for Autism Speaks, an organization that helps raise awareness of the prevalence of autism locally and around the nation. Cost is $95 per person and includes wine. The night starts with a tour of the farm. Freshly picked fruit, vegetables and herbs will inspire the night’s menu. 440-862-1682 for reservations.

Covered Bridge Gardens is also supplying produce for a July 28 shindig dubbed Dine with the Vines. It takes place right in the vineyard at Grand River Cellars, a winery in Madison, and owner/manager Cindy Lindberg will do a walk and talk through the rows of grapes and handle the wine pairings. Mick and Kay Prochko will be there to chat about what’s on your plate. Those plates, five courses worth, will be created by Jeremy Esterly, currently Executive Chef at Paragon, a bar and eatery in Euclid. The banquet style meal kicks off at 6 p.m. with Ohio artisinal cheeses and wines. $75 per person and reservations are required, 440-298-9838.

Seating is limited at both dinners. So don't dawdle. Get on the phone right this minute. But if there isn’t a place left for you, don’t be too upset. These folks are planning to do more dinners like this.

Death of a Salesman: Borders To Close Its Doors Permanently

2011-07-19T15:37:00.007-04:00

In an era of e-book and iPad obsession, it’s no surprise that Borders, the nation’s second-largest bookstore chain, expects to go out of business by September. The company began its downward spiral when it declared bankruptcy in February, and on Friday it’ll begin liquidating its remaining 399 stores.

The Borders in Fairlawn closed in March 2010.

George Bilgere, director of John Carroll University’s writing program, seemed to predict this fate in "Beyond Borders," his personal essay for our Voice section back in April.

“The days when you could drift through acres of books, sipping a latte and parking yourself with a magazine in an overstuffed chair near the gas log fireplace, are coming to an end,” he wrote gloomily.

As one student told him that she downloaded her class reading assignment onto her iPad, a feeling of dread overcame Bilgere. “A year from now [the students] would all be sitting in front of me with their glowing screens, staring with pity at the old guy shuffling through his primitive pages,” he said.

While some take pride in their nifty gadgets, others recognize the timeless value of books. Dave Ferrante, owner of Visible Voice in Tremont, told Bilgere that a book — as in one made of paper — is technology in and of itself. “It doesn’t break if you drop it. It doesn’t need batteries. And anyone can get one for free from the public library.”

Is this the apocalypse for the printed book? No, but Borders’ closure does mean more than 10,000 people nationwide will lose their jobs. Only five Cleveland-area stores remain open for now: Westlake, Solon, Beachwood, Strongsville and Tower City.

Overflowing Praise for Fountain

2011-07-13T08:00:00.004-04:00

She had me with the invitation. It arrived by mail, rolled up like a scroll with a cork in the center and tied with raffia bow in a rectangular box lined with orange tissue paper and a toss of roasted coffee beans. I was impressed by the creative effort, curious about the meaning of these pieces and parts, and eager to know more. So I instantly RSVP’d yes to the grand opening event for Fountain, a European-inspired café and gastro-lounge (proprietor Iris Wheeler’s descriptive tag for her new venture). After spending a couple of hours at the Moreland Hills spot last Wednesday night, I came to understand that the package I’d received was full of cues and clues revealing what this place is all about, the imaginative thinking behind it, and the extra effort they’re putting into everything.

Fountain — and there are two actual ones, a classic version on the patio and the other, a modernist cascading wall of water — is coffee shop and lunch stop by day, a wine bar serving small and shareable plates and desserts until late (midnight Monday to Wednesday, 1 a.m. Thursday through Saturday). When I first heard about the concept, it made no sense. I couldn’t visualize such a multi-purpose kind of a place. There’s a reason for that: we don’t have anything else like it around here. Now that I’ve had a look and met the vivacious German-born Iris, the idea makes perfect, lovely sense. What ties the various functions together is her vision of a sophisticated gathering place with a morning, noon and night selection of refined, high quality food and drink.

The front of the big room, where you step up to counter to order a pot of French press, a fruit smoothie, a scoop of gelato, or something from the pastry case, is flooded with natural light. But a few steps further in and things get pleasantly dark — damask drapes frame the windows; the walls are a deep warm terra cotta, and the lighting is low. Beyond a long wooden bar, the space opens up and is furnished with comfortable couches and chairs, not restaurant tables, arranged in small groups. Each seating area represents a specific European country — black and white photos of famous landmarks let you know whether you’re sitting in Austria, Spain, Italy or the Benelux (Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg). There are some nooks and private corners perfect for tête-a-têting and even an area to dance when the DJ’s in the house.

Donna Chriszt, an accomplished chef and fine dining veteran, is in the driver’s seat when it comes to the kitchen. She’ll be curing salmon, making her own rillettes and terrines, and beefing up sandwiches and salads with house made spreads, dressings, and condiments. Sweet and savory crepes will be a specialty. I tasted some absolutely wonderful things during the party that are on her menu — patés, shrimp with a chorizo dipping sauce, truffled egg custard, and vegetables in aspic, along with some of the cheeses and charcuterie that will be available on platters and boards.

Attention to detail is in evidence everywhere. The menu books include a magnifying glass and a light. Bartenders have a handheld aerator for filling a glass with red wine. George, the pro who poured for the husband and I, was as smooth and charming (and knowledgeable) as they come. The lists of imported beers and wines are large and eclectic with short but quite helpful descriptions of flavor attached to each selection. I sipped on a splendid dry Riesling-Selbach-Oster Weissburgunder Trocken (2008).

Writing this has me eager to get back, bring friends, taste more and spend some leisurely time soaking up the chic civilized ambiance.

Invasion of the Nerds

2011-07-07T08:45:00.002-04:00

Last weekend, Cleveland was stormed by nerds on bikes. The strange sight was not random. It was the first ever nerd ride hosted by Crank-Set Rides, a nonprofit that organizes themed bike rides.

The 180 geeks, dweebs and dorks rode about four miles on Saturday from the Root Cafe in Lakewood to a nerdy dance party in Cleveland.

"People have been loving this," says Lindsey Bower, organizer and co-founder of Crank-Set Rides. Decked out in oversized black glasses, knee high tube socks and pink polka dotted suspenders, she said the group attracted the attention of onlookers wherever they rode. Some just stopped and stared, wondering what was going on, while others pulled out cameras and started filming.

Nerds faced off in a trivia match that tested their knowledge of geeky subjects from Boba Fett to pi at the Happy Dog in the Gordon Square Arts District. Joe Milan, above, out-smarted the other nerds, winning the first round. Milan, dressed in a bowtie, glasses and suspenders, exclaimed that his outfit was authentic. "I didn't have to go shopping for any of this stuff," he said.

After two rounds of nerd trivia, the two winners faced off in a Math-a-thon. They had 30 seconds to do 60 multiplication tables. As the winner was named, the crowd celebrated by chanting "Nerd! Nerd! Nerd!"

Riders stepped outside the stuffy hotdog joint to cool off, even though the temperatures on Saturday rose to the upper 80s. As cars drove by and witnessed the gaggle of nerds, drivers honked and hollered. The nerds all took off at once for their next location, Joy Machines Bike Shop on West 25th Street.

Crank-Set is using proceeds from the $5 participation fee to purchase new bike racks for Cleveland. Its next events are the hot pants ride on Aug. 20 and the second annual zombie ride on Oct. 22.

In the Market for Something Good

2011-07-06T08:00:00.003-04:00

I was at Market Garden Brewery in Ohio City Thursday night. The size of the after-work crowd — inside and out — suggested they were giving away beer. (To be clear, they weren’t.) But obviously word had spread quickly about this long-awaited spot that has been in the works for two years but open only a few days. It looked like half of Cleveland had come to check out what idea man and founder Sam McNulty and brewmaster Andy Tveekrem have accomplished.

The pair started with two empty and unexceptional buildings. Now, after major renovations and thanks to help from a veritable army of others, they’re presiding over a microbrewery that turns out a dozen different beers, a sprawling brew pub and a restaurant, and they'll soon be distilling onsite and pouring their own spirits as the first place in Ohio licensed to do both. Leave it to McNulty, a relentless beverage entrepreneur who already operates Bier Markt, Bar Cento, and Speakeasy (all directly across the street) to hit upon the trendy concept. According to an article that appeared in USA Today in May, pairing craft brewing and distilling is a nationwide phenomenon.

It was a glorious evening — blue skies, warm but not hot and a bit of balmy breeze — so the husband and I wanted to be in the beer garden, an appealing and convivial patio. It faces the alley running parallel to the West Side Market. (Equipped with a wood burning fireplace, it should be equally nice when cold weather returns.) By the time we arrived at 6:30, it was packed, but luckily our son Nathan had gotten there earlier and secured a corner and three stools at a long communal table that encourages conversations between friends and strangers alike. There wasn’t an empty seat out front either on West 25th Street and few unoccupied spots in the two interior rooms, each with its own bar. Sliding glass doors seamlessly connect patios and dining areas. The layout, with spaces flowing seamlessly together, makes it seem as if everyone is part of one big party, no matter where you are.

Amongst the curious and the thirsty, the husband and I saw quite a few people we know, which reinforced that impression. On our personal who’s who was Kevin Scheuring, of Spice Hound and manager of the Coit Road Farmer's Market (spotted but not greeted); Samantha Fryberger, director of communications for Jumpstart, who was with a friend from Positively Cleveland, her former employer; Natalie Ezzie, who is with St. Vincent Charity Medical Center, and her sister Nadine Ezzie, an attorney; Josh Taylor with Twist Creative; Joe Mosbrook of Cleveland State University; and Kurt and Barbara Zoss, owners of Zoss the Swiss Baker and our Cleveland Heights neighbors. They make the excellent soft pretzels on the brewery menu. The timing of their arrival was perfect; they stopped by to say hello just as we were polishing off an order.

I went there for a professional peek and some social time with my son and husband. I got both plus something more: a sense of community and an infusion of excitement. I felt happy for myself and for my town, happy to have a new business investing in the neighborhood and the city, happy for the energy and activity it brings to the street. I’m glad when good things happen here. I take it personally. And the opening of Market Garden Brewery definitely makes me want to celebrate.

photos by Stephanie Sheldon

Drake to help celebrate Cleveland's 215th birthday

2011-07-01T14:46:00.011-04:00

This year’s Ohio Homecoming celebration is about to be the best we’ve ever had.

Hip-hop star Drake, whose hits include “Best I Ever Had,” “Fancy” and “Find Your Love,” has been added to the lineup of the July 20-24 Ohio Homecoming celebration. (Click here for our story on the event.) He'll join Cleveland’s Bone Thugs-N-Harmony for the “Bone and Drake By the Lake Concert” at the Port of Cleveland Docks 28 & 30, behind Browns Stadium.

Last year’s event, celebrating Cleveland’s 214th birthday, featured Shaker Heights native and rapper Kid Cudi (who performs at the Q tonight). That concert, which drew thousands to downtown Cleveland's malls, was free with the purchase of an “I Am OHIO” T-shirt or a ticket to the other Ohio Homecoming events. However, Drake fans will have to pay a higher price. Tickets to the “Bone and Drake by the Lake” concert and events range from $45 to $75.

The Dredgers Union: Reviving Downtown's Shopping Scene

2011-07-01T10:48:00.007-04:00

The Dredgers Union on East Fourth Street has the hip feel of Urban Outfitters, the sophistication of Banana Republic and the flair of Cleveland.

Various vignettes of apparel, accessories and home goods — what owner Danielle DeBoe calls “narrative merchandising” — greet visitors. “They’re supposed to tell a story,” she says.

It's a story about the past being the key to the present. DeBoe cites the Victorian era and the Industrial Revolution as inspirations for Dredgers’ ambiance. There’s a hint of the past within the scattered odd gifts of old-fashioned shoe polish and drawer knobs, but then I’m brought back to the future as I browse through skinny jeans with Vampire Weekend playing overhead. That fits. Dredgers is a breath of new life in downtown’s once-booming, now nearly nonexistent retail industry.

DeBoe, who owns The Dredgers Union with Sean Bilovecky, says business has been booming since the store’s soft opening June 17. “It’s just been bananas,” she says animatedly. “We didn’t have super high expectations before the soft opening. But we’ve had a tremendous surge of people coming in.”

Dredgers offers men’s, women’s and kids' apparel, as well as home items such as bedding and cooking utensils. Prices for men’s and women’s shirts range between $30 and $90, and jeans go for an average of $110. Like Urban Outfitters, Dredgers stocks an array of gift ideas, such as paper airplane pendant necklaces and globe paperweights. Some of the merchandise is surprising, from the cutesy hammers made especially for women to candles that smell like men’s cologne. The store stocks items from more than 110 vendors, including American-produced brands that are scarcely seen in the Cleveland area.

The brand that stands out is the store’s private label, designed by Bilovecky and women’s designer Dana Hardy right here in C-town. Though Dredgers' merchandise is a bit pricier, Clevelanders will feel good knowing they’re supporting their hometown. “It’s a very difficult thing for retailers to carry a ‘made in the USA’ label these days,” she says.

The women’s clothing at Dredgers is a bit more summery and bright than the men’s, but both have an urban-chic edge. “We did not want an overtly feminine store,” says DeBoe. “We wanted to create a space where both men and women would feel comfortable.”

The store’s next big thing is its grand opening on July 8, which coincides with DeBoe’s Made in the 216 event — a celebration of Cleveland-based designers. The event will be a circus-themed party with music, beer, cotton candy and about 50 Cleveland-based vendors.

DeBoe says she hopes Dredgers will encourage other retailers to set up shop downtown. “I want to keep the creative endeavors in Cleveland,” she says.

To read Colleen Smitek’s profile of Danielle DeBoe in our June issue, click here.

Purr-fectly Wonderful

2011-06-29T08:00:00.004-04:00

Once again Jonathon Sawyer and crew are on the cutting edge of food trends … and helping insure that Cleveland is too. This time it’s restaurants with a short life span. Chefs secure a venue, create a menu, host a dinner party for a single night or a week of nights, then pack it in and the party’s over. It’s a chance for them to play with ingredients, test ideas and break free of diners’ expectations. For the people they feed these temporary eateries are exciting, an opportunity to be part a singular and out-of-the-ordinary experience. These culinary adventures are getting traction in big cities around the country.

Sawyer in Noodlecat kitchen: photo by Bridger Rehner

Sawyer’s calling his version Brick & Mortar Pop-Ups. I was a guest at the very first one, held last Saturday night in his not-yet-open new place, Noodlecat, on Euclid Avenue, just around the corner from The Greenhouse Tavern. Lee Anne Wong, an accomplished chef well known for her Bravo TV and Cooking Channel appearances, was in town to help him launch the planned series. The two partnered in the kitchen to great effect, producing a highly original and outstanding menu titled "Easy Japaneasy.” It foreshadows some of noodle dishes Sawyer will soon be serving there as well as what Wong wants to do for the Asian-inspired gastropub she hopes to get up and running in New York city before the end of the year.

Lee Anne Wong doing Easy Japanesy: photo by Bridget Rehner

The options were divided into three categories: Fingers, Sticks and Slurps. Sharing plates with the husband, I got to try three in category one and two each in the others: roasted oysters seasoned with togarashi (a 7-spice blend), garlic and bone marrow butter, (among the more astonishing and delicious things I’ve ever eaten), plus tea smoked deviled eggs on toast topped with marinated salmon roe, and crispy shallots with breaded pork cutlet sliders with mustard-katsu sauce and cabbage salad; shrimp and water chestnut gyoza with scallion ponzu dipping sauce + nanbanzuke of perch (cold marinated fried fish) with tomato watermelon salad and pickled onions; braised pork belly stew with radishes, carrots, and tiny potatoes in a drinkable soy laced broth + a gingery udon noodle stir fry with cabbage and bits of bacon. Bartender Dean Sauer mixed me up a Lee Anne Special made with Maker’s Mark and Orange Rhubarb spritz, a Dutch salad featuring gin and ginger beer and Noodlecat’s Japanese margarita. We left nothing edible or drinkable behind.

Perch: Photo by Bridget Rehner

Wong, wearing golden clogs, told me the pair got quite a work out in the kitchen with many hours of prep required. "It was a good warm-up for Noodlecat," she said. "Jonathon has an ambitious menu planned and will be doing some similar dishes." It may get even more ambitious- he and wife Ameilia left the next morning for eight days of research-that means eating- in Tokoyo.

The next Bricks and Mortar Pop-Up, also at Noodlecat, comes courtesy of Dim and Dem Sum founder Chris Hodgson July 11 & 13. Reservations required. The uber-energetic and super social young chef recently returned home after a cross country stint as a contestant, and finalist, on America’s Great Food Truck Race, along with his second mobile chuck wagon, Hodge Podge, and plans for a permanent location.

Noodlecat, which will serve strictly Japanese style noodle based preparations, should be totally finished and ready for customers right after this event. The space, small, simple and fun, already looked great Saturday. The design and décor is a collaborative effort for Sawyer and Sin-Jin Satayathum, the artist who helped give Greenhouse Tavern its distinctive and sustainable character. Based on first impressions, I’d say they’ve successfully combined elements of a traditional ramen house here with something distinctly their own and totally Cleveland. Love the long repurposed school lab tables ats the back, bench along one side, stools on the other. They create instant sociabilty. Traded "what to order" advice with a pair of women on my left, and the couple on my right offered samples of their dish. If I was a cat, I'd have been purring with happiness.

Geek Out

2011-06-28T08:45:00.001-04:00

Lindsey Bower is a nerd and she’s proud of it. She knows she’s not the only one. So she and her boyfriend and fellow nerd, Dan Krivenki, are hosting the first ever Nerd Ride, a bike trip in which nerds, geeks, dweebs and dorks are invited to pedal across Cleveland to raise money to install bike racks around town.

The pair are co-founders of the nonprofit Crank-Set Rides, which organizes themed bike rides, such as last year’s zombie ride, to promote biking awareness. For their next idea, the two looked no farther than their own personalities.

“We're both nerdy people,” Bower says. “We always dress up as nerds for Halloween and sometimes if we’re bored, we’ll dress up as nerds and go ride our bikes around, just to get people to laugh.”

The themed rides attract a slew of bewildered onlookers. At the zombie ride in October, Bower says one lady just stared at the 200-some zombies riding by, scared out of her wits, as if she thought the apocalypse had come.

This time, Bower expects just as much buzz. “Little kids come out on the street, and they’re so excited, they’re happy and running around and giving us fives when we go past,” she says. “That is such a good feeling. They’ll laugh when they see us dressed as nerds.”

Expect these cyclists to completely geek out with their costumes. Bower promises tube socks, bow ties, glasses, pocket protectors, suspenders and even wedgies. “Suspenders give you the worst wedgies in the world,” she says through vibrant laughter.

She hopes people will not only notice their outfits, but become more aware of the need to share the road with bikers. She also hopes to get the city to consider bike improvements. One bike rack has already been installed in Lakewood.

The nerd ride, which lasts from 4:30 p.m. on Saturday until 2 a.m. on Sunday, will lead geeks on a tour of hot spots such as the Happy Dog, which is hosting a geek-style Math-a-thon. It'll end at Reddstone with a nerdy dance-off.

Poster courtesy of Lindsey Bower. Photo from Crank-Set Rides' Facebook photo set.

Salvaging Art

2011-06-23T09:00:00.000-04:00

All of the items in Collective Upcycle were intended for a recycling center or, worse, a landfill. But thanks to crafty local artists, materials such as plastic bags, bicycle gears and seat belts have been salvaged and transformed into trendy purses, wind chimes and belts.

The shop, located at 6710 Detroit Avenue in the Gordon Square Arts District, is open for a limited time, from June 11 to July 3. Late last year, to promote “reuse artists,” local artist Nicole McGee launched a pilot store, The Pop-up Gift Shop, in Trinity Commons for the holidays. It proved popular, so she’s back at it with the new name Collective Upcycle and 30 artists. Although the store is new, the name has been on her mind for 2 1/2 years. It represents the idea of coming together, she says, and “taking something else and giving it a new, creative life.”

McGee, who markets her own art under the name Plenty Underfoot, says the store represents Cleveland’s up-and-coming reuse economy.

“There’s this creative force of people who are not buying something new at the craft store,” she says. “For me, and I know for other people, there is something inherently creative about taking something leftover and saying ‘What do you want to be?’ and ‘I’m going to turn you into it.’”

One artist featured in the store converts wedding dresses into christening gowns. Another makes furniture out of wood from deconstructed Cleveland buildings. Anita Tucker of Wine2Wick repurposes wine, beer and liquor bottles into candleholders.

“It's extraordinary how many bottles go into a landfill that aren't recycled,” Tucker says.

She says the store has provided her with a community of artists. They help each other out by saving items others use for art. Friends say her art gives them a motive to drink wine so they can give her the bottle. She even sees customers bring in items for artists to use.

McGee doesn’t plan to operate the shop full time, but she assures customers that Collective Upcycle will pop up again somewhere in the city in time for the holidays. Stay tuned.

Photo courtesy of Collective Upcycle

Park It

2011-06-22T08:00:00.008-04:00

Since word was that Cropicana was attracting huge crowds from Day 1, I was waiting for some of the hubbub to die down before making my maiden visit. From what I was hearing, that’s an exercise in futility: Unless it’s cold and raining, the place is pretty much packed every night. So I got myself down there recently for a look see with a few of my favorite beer swillers, margarita sippers and onion ring enthusiasts.

There’s an outdoor kitchen, equipped with a big smoker, and bar, plus another bar and small dining area indoors. We were lucky and snagged seats under the canopy. Those who didn’t filled picnic tables scattered around the grass adjacent to the dock. There were lots of folks in team-ware, on their way to and from volleyball games. Others came armed with Frisbees. Dogs, lots of them but all on leashes, greeted one another with friendly sniffs, seemingly absorbing the friendly, relaxed, be-and-let-be vibe of this spot. Kids scampered off to play on the slide. The soundtrack was either too loud or get-down perfect depending on your personal point of view. (Live music on the weekends: Check website for schedule.) We had a nice breeze, a glorious sunset over the lake and a few hours of highly entertaining people watching.

Steve and Jackie Schimoler are managing the seasonal county-owned Wendy Park venue at Whiskey Island Marina for the summer while the second iteration of their Warehouse District restaurant, Crop, is under construction in Ohio City. It’s definitely a step away from what they usually do. Food comes in paper-lined plastic baskets, and you eat it with plastic tableware. But they’ve clearly figured out how to make guests happy and make the casual, mostly self-serve waterside restaurant a destination.

The menu has the usual options for this kind of beach scene without any fancy flourishes, which is just how most folks like their hot dogs, hamburgers and french fries. But the Schimoler style shows up in other choices and daily specials such as chile lime popcorn, lamb tacos, smoked wings and cherry chipotle ribs.

The whole experience is more funky Caribbean island than Cleveland lakefront, a sort of tiki bar meets Camp O-Hi-O. The Schimolers' formula is proving so successful that there’s talk of building a pedestrian bridge that will make it easier to get there from Ohio City and the West Bank of the Flats. But that’s a story for another year. Right now, unless you have a boat, a car’s your best bet. Take the Shoreway, follow the signs for Whiskey Island, and wind along the access road until you arrive at what looks like a big party in progress.

Tower City turns up the heat as 'Hot in Cleveland' cast receives keys to the city

2011-06-16T16:50:00.005-04:00

"This show is a love letter to our region," Baiju Shah of Global Cleveland remarked to the anxious crowd inside Tower City Center, waiting to catch a glimpse of the Hot in Cleveland cast.

Mayor Frank Jackson presented Valerie Bertinelli, Jane Leeves, Wendie Malick and the much-loved Betty White with keys to the city today. Shah bestowed the title of Honorary Global Clevelander upon them.

"You guys are all co-stars of this show," Malick told the crowd after receiving her key. White smiled as she praised Cleveland for having one of the "best zoos" she's ever seen.

"Betty" chants echoed throughout Tower City, turning the event into a pep rally for the 89-year-old actress. Signs read "Thank you for being a friend" and "Who needs LeBron when Cleveland has Betty?" -- contrasting White's poise, charm and gratitude with, well, you know.

Leeves said she's always had a "strange warm and fuzzy feeling about Cleveland," though she'd never visited Ohio before. "It's the best kept secret in America," she said.

The event was part of a two-day celebration of Hot in Cleveland, which has painted a positive picture of the city in its two years on the air. Last night the four women toured the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum's Women Who Rock exhibit and attended a special viewing of the show's season premiere.

One source said the four women were off to spend the day around the city filming scenes for the show. Bertinelli will be staying in town an extra day with husband Tom Vitale, a native of Cuyahoga Falls. She'll be throwing the ceremonial first pitch before Friday night's Tribe game.

To read our January cover story about Hot in Cleveland, including Colleen Smitek's interviews with White, Bertinelli, Leeves and Malick on the set in Los Angeles, click here.

Cutlet Couture: Lady Gaga's Meat Dress Served Up at Rock Hall

2011-06-16T15:10:00.000-04:00

You watched in fascinated horror as she strutted down the red carpet wearing it at the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards. You chuckled as commentators and fans debated whether she'd finally gone too far. You thought it was going to be turned into jerky.

Now Lady Gaga’s infamous meat dress has arrived in Cleveland. The dress is on display at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum as part of its Women Who Rock: Vision, Passion, Power exhibit, on display through February 2012.

Created by designers Franc Fernandez and Nichola Formichetti, the hand-sewn dress is made of Argentinean beef. It's in good company, surrounded by artifacts from Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera, Rihanna and the material girl herself, Madonna.

The dress' journey to the Rock Hall began last year, when Lady Gaga was in town to perform and the museum invited her to visit. She couldn't come, but her father and members of her management team took up the invitation, and conversations began about including Gaga in the exhibit. Also on display are an Armani-designed outfit Gaga wore at the 2010 Grammy awards, childhood photos, sheet music and the singer’s first piano.

No need to fear exposure to rotten meat. A taxidermist in California has preserved the dress with bleach, detergent and a 10 percent formaldehyde solution. (Yum!) It's also been painted to look like it actually did when Lady Gaga wore it to the VMA’s, instead of preserved, dried meat.

“We realized that if we were going to have it, it couldn’t be fresh meat that was rotting,” says Jim Henke, the Rock Hall's chief curator, “because that would put other stuff in the museum in danger.”

Exhibits and humans included.

Photo: Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum/Ivor Karabatkovic

An Open Letter to Fabio Mota

2011-06-15T08:00:00.004-04:00

Dear Chef,
Thank you for having me in last week to get a first look at the newly opened Club Isabella and a taste of some dishes from the menu. Now, my question is: Fabio Mota, where have you been all my [professional] life? You say you’ve cooked at Johnny’s on Fulton, and the long-gone Johnny’s Café downtown, and most recently at the original Club Isabella, from 2004 until 2007 when it closed. But I never heard your name, saw your face, or knew anything about the guy behind my food. And now, suddenly here you are, bursting onto the dining scene with a gorgeous place of your own. You, along with your Cordon Bleu training in Paris, your serious attitude and original ideas, were something of a secret around here, but it appears your time behind the scenes is over. Based on what I’ve seen and tasted, I’m guessing that soon everyone’s going to be talking about you. I’m happy to get the buzz started.

Your space — a total and stunning renovation of a building on the fringes of Little Italy that began as a social club in the late 1930s and ended up as Goose Acres Folk Music Center in its last incarnation — is sleek, sexy and clearly a place for grownups. I can’t drive by the patio without wanting to stop and stay awhile, and I love the seamless segue from inside to outside thanks to those big sliding glass doors.

I’ve eaten much good food prepared by talented and skilled chefs in this town and around the country. So I know the difference between very good, good and everything else. You served me some very good dishes. For those reading this, here’s what I ate that really just knocked me out: fried sweet and spicy cuttlefish; a salad of Brussels sprout leaves, endive and Serrano ham in a lemon vinaigrette; calamari Bolognese; a croque monsier sandwich made with more of that ham, Gruyere cheese, avocado salad and a perfectly poached egg; and a roasted veal marrow bone with fleur de sel, toast brushed with clarified butter and a citrusy vinaigrette.

Sure you’ve got the pizzas, the steak, the burger — seems a prerequisite for survival these days. But you’re also being bold, working with some uncommon ingredients, doing dishes that are out of the ordinary and different from everybody else in Cleveland. I respect and applaud that.

Even the bar snacks — marinated, panko coated fried artichoke hearts in a kicky aioli, spiced and roasted nuts, a gardiniere of vegetables brined in house — were outstanding, which explains why they disappeared so fast. Kudos to your second in command, chef Rick Chandler: He did a great job explaining how things were prepared and what’s going to be happening in the kitchen. He’s also a great spokesperson for you and the restaurant, obviously excited about what you’re doing together there.

I don’t blame him. I am too, and I already see a serious contender for Best New Restaurant in 2011.
photos courtesy of Club Isabella and Pauline Lewis Photography

Bass drums, burgers and bands at Rock Hall's Chef Jam

2011-06-13T15:00:00.000-04:00

Burgers were served up on bass drums, vegetarian sushi lined the polished face of a cymbal and a Beatles tribute band belted out "She Loves You" to the dancing crowd. From barbecued duck to fried Twinkies, the Rock Hall's Chef Jam 2011 indulged in the delicacies of Cleveland's best chefs.

Donning wigs, face paint and outfits from generations past, various chefs from Cleveland restaurants dressed up as their favorite musicians. My favorite costume: Melt Bar and Grilled's Matt Fish as Eric Singer of KISS (pictured).

However, I was a little disappointed that Melt was not passing out their famous grilled cheese sandwiches, but fried Twinkies instead. (Twinkies, really?)

For me, Sweet Moses' vanilla bean ice cream, drizzled in bourbon caramel sauce, topped all the dishes in the Rock Hall. Hearing someone list off the soda fountain and treat shop's ten different homemade ice cream flavors was music to my taste buds.

Also present were chefs from B Spot, Deagan's, Pier W, Melange, Greenhouse Tavern and others, including Food Network star Anne Burrell, host of Secrets of a Restaurant Chef, and one very close to naked cowboy from Naked Cowboy Oyster. Proceeds from the charity event supported Ohio City Farm and the Rock Hall's education programs.

'Gravity' Pulls Bay Village's Kate Voegele Home for Cleveland Tour Date

2011-06-10T08:58:00.007-04:00

Much like pop star Kate Voegele, Cleveland rocks. Even more important, Voegele knows it.

After releasing her third album, Gravity Happens, in May, the Bay Village native had a small dilemma. Word got out to her fans that she wouldn't play any Ohio dates while on tour opening for Natasha Bedingfield. They did not take the news very well.

“People don’t know if you’re on Natasha’s tour, you have to go where Natasha goes,” Voegele says.

So Voegele added Ohio to the map herself. She performs at the House of Blues on June 14. The 24-year-old musician talked to us about her Cleveland roots and venturing into new waters to make Gravity Happens.

Cleveland Magazine: Are there places you like to go when you come back to Cleveland?
Kate Voegele: Yes, absolutely. I am a big fan of Coventry; it's an artistic and inspiring spot. I used to spend a lot of time there during high school. I'm also a big fan of Moosehead Saloon. It's like the best food on Earth.

CM: How is this album different from your first and your second?
KV: This album is definitely an evolution for me from the other ones. It's not a stark contrast in that I didn't go out there and make a hip-hop record, but it's more rootsy, more honest. It's much closer to who I really think I am as an artist.

CM: Is there anything different you wanted to do or try out with Gravity Happens that you hadn’t done with your previous albums?
KV: I think that what I wanted to do with this album is, in the lighter areas, go lighter, and in the darker areas, go darker. There's some fun, happy songs on this album, and I haven't really done as much of that as I'd like to in my first two albums. But then in the darker areas there are songs like "Burning the Harbor" and "Gravity Happens" that are really about the heavy things in life. I wanted to be more honest, vulnerable, and to make a record that was as human as I could possibly come up with.

CM: What is your favorite song to perform off of this album?
KV: "Sandcastles." It has this classic, rootsy feel and it's fun to sing, but it's probably one of the most honest songs on the album. The line in the chorus is, "I'd rather be making sandcastles instead of these wide-world decisions." It's something I hope a lot of people can relate to.

CM: How has your appearance on [The CW’s TV show] One Tree Hill and your character Mia helped you develop as a musician, singer and songwriter?
KV: I think that OTH has been a pretty cool piece of the puzzle for me. And getting in front of a camera as an actor taught me certain things about performing, being comfortable with myself and how to become more poised as a performer.

CM: Do you have any big plans for the near future?
KV: Later this summer I'll be releasing a signature pair of sunglasses that I designed with my sponsor, Oakley’s. What’s cool about these sunglasses is that they're tied to my new record. The artwork that's on the sunglasses is the same artwork that's on the CD cover. If you buy the sunglasses, you get a download card for the album, so you basically get the album for free.

First Sip: Market Garden Brewery

2011-06-09T09:09:00.015-04:00

As Market Garden Brewery gears up to open the first week of July, owner Sam McNulty invited us over for a sneak peak tasting last night. We sipped five handcrafted beers created by brewmaster Andy Tveekrem, formerly of Dogfish Head. In all, McNulty says there will be about a dozen house-crafted brews offered (10 will be regularly on tap with two to rotate seasonally). Plus expect nods to other local microbreweries such as The Brew Kettle and Thirsty Dog Brewing Co.

If the first five (which included ales, stouts and IPAs) are any indication of what's to come at Market Garden, then we can't wait for the taps to open — not a bad brew was sampled last night. Here are three of our favorites:

Test Market Ale: This is what we caught McNulty drinking last night, and for good reason. It's Market Garden's first brew, amber in color with a malt meets hops feel for a crisp finish.

St. Emeric Stout: Guinness drinkers (myself included) will love this stout. It's full bodied and dry but without a bitter finish. It goes down velvety smooth.

Wallace Tavern Scotch Ale: Light brown in color, it's got all the makings of a traditional Scotch ale with a malty caramel flavor and a bit of a roasted kick.

Jammed Up

2011-06-08T08:00:00.003-04:00

Like a dysfunctional love affair, it’s been an on again off again relationship for me and Chef Jam this year. The event, scheduled for Sunday, June 12, at 7 p.m., is a celebration of local culinary talent and a fundraiser. The 2011 beneficiaries are the Rock Hall’s educational programming and the Ohio City Farm. The orgy of food and music, part of the larger Cleveland Food Rocks branding campaign, will be held at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.

My personal saga began last month when I got a call inviting me to be one of the judges for the cook-off. Maker’s Mark is a presenter, as it was in 2010, and participating restaurants -- at last count there were 21 -- are asked to create a dish using the bourbon as an ingredient.

I judged last year, and let me tell you, it’s not an easy job. I had to battle the impulse to overeat, limiting myself to just a bite or two of some very good things, or run the risk of being unable to fulfill my tasting responsibilities, and I had to resist the temptation to overindulge in the spirits generously provided to us judges, or suffer the embarrassing comments and photos posted online the next day. And, of course, choosing just a single prize winner (while disappointing and perhaps even pissing off others) is no picnic.

Nonetheless, I agreed to do it. And I was excited to learn that I’d be joined by nationally recognized figures from the food world. Of course, I have to be honest, there’s a certain (embarrassing) thrill to being part of a group that includes famous and accomplished folk. But I was more tickled by the idea that it would be a great opportunity to showcase Cleveland's dining scene and help all our talented chefs build their reps outside the city. I felt honored to be included.

Then I got uninvited. It seemed that much to the organizers' surprise, all the celebrities that had been asked said yes. Suddenly Chef Jam had a glut of judges. Lacking star power, I did not make the cut. It didn’t feel exactly pleasant to get kicked to the curb, but I was genuinely happy that all these luminaries were not only willing to participate but willing to come on out here to do it.

Besides, I could still buy a $65 ticket and cruise the food stations, where chefs and staff offer creations inspired by their favorite band or musician (not to mention dress up like the rock stars they’re featuring -- the memory of Scott Kim, chef/owner of SaSa at Shaker Square, in a long ZZ Top beard is something I treasure from last year). I could also head-bounce, shoulder sway, and hip wiggle to English Beat, Naked Cowboy, the Cream of the Crop All Stars and Cleveland’s own Abbey Rodeo with special guest Jim Bonfanti of the Raspberries. You can too. I hear tickets are still available. Buy them here.

I was really OK with having no official role. It meant I could just enjoy myself like everybody else. Then last week, I got re-invited. Apparently a couple of the big names backed out, so I’m back in. The line-up now includes Food & Wine editor Daniel Gritzer; chef Koren Grieveson of Chicago’s avec restaurant; and the Food Network’s Iron Chef judge and food writer Akiko Katayama; plus Doug Trattner and me. Note, however, that my name doesn’t appear in the list of celebrity judges in the Rock Hall announcement (neither does Trattner’s). I’m known around town for sure, and I do have some fans in Pittsburgh, Chicago and San Francisco (though I should note that three of the eight are relatives). But clearly that doesn’t make me famous enough. Oh well. I still get to sit right beside all the heavy-hitters and give my opinions.

Come see us at the judges table. I’ll be the one with food in my mouth and the big Cleveland-proud grin on my face.

Photo: the 2010 winning dish -- Dante Bocuzzi's Maker's Mark poached lobster with gnocchi and asparagus

Sparks will fly at the Temple of Tesla concert Saturday

2011-06-07T09:00:00.008-04:00

The headliner at the Temple of Tesla concert this weekend isn’t an energetic pop star or hardcore rock band. It's a pair of 13-feet-high coils pulsing about 20 kilowatts of electrical currents to produce its own versions of tunes such as Girl Talk’s “This is the Remix.”

These coils and their mastermind, Ian Charnas, constitute the Tesla Orchestra. “We make musical lighting bolts,” says Charnas, the orchestra's project manager.

Saturday’s show at the Masonic Performing Arts Center will feature the coils pumping out music from the recent Open Spark Project and the orchestra’s 2010 world tour. Attendees can watch Charnas don a chainmail suit and dance with the 10-feet-long sparks. Daring audience members will be invited to sit inside a steel cage as lighting strikes around it. The Chicago-based Blue Ribbon Glee Club will open the show with a capella covers of punk rock songs.

Charnas, a 2005 Case Western Reserve University graduate, thought up the orchestra while watching a similar performance in Austin, Texas in 2007. “I thought, ‘That looks like fun. I want to do that,’” he says. He wanted to add theatrics and make it into a “sci-fi rock” performance.

Three years and $10,000 later, Charnas built twin Tesla coils with the help of CWRU students, graduates, faculty and staff. Building the coils was a “slow and painful” process, he admits, but it paid off when he could finally produce music by sending a signal through the coils to turn the sparks on and off. “Any noise that you can turn on and off, you can turn it into music,” he says.