Fine French

To those wary to welcome Edwins Leadership & Restaurant Institute — chef and restaurateur Brandon Chrostowski's Shaker Square restaurant staffed almost entirely by formerly incarcerated men and women — into Cleveland's fine restaurant fold, let us say: The only incident we witnessed at its grand opening Friday was a spilled water pitcher. It was, otherwise, a success.

The French restaurant welcomed more than 180 guests for its opening night, according to the host, who checked our coats and sat us at an intimate two-top clothed in simple white linens and topped with a glowing tea light. The dining room was filled with patrons at 9 p.m., who talked over booming jazz music and marveled at the room's painted murals and comforting fireplace. By nearly 11:30 p.m., the space was still packed.

The menu — organized in a traditional French fashion, in which entrees are appetizers and plats are main courses — boasts a variety of mouthwatering options, from Provencal-style artichokes to sauteed scallops, but we started with what Chrostowski has built his reputation on: Wine and cheese.

 

A Rhone Valley Grenache ($12 per glass) was full and fruity, and paired well with four cheeses ($3 each), whittled down from more than 20 varieties by a server eager to share his new-found knowledge and love of creamy and stinky options. A triple-creme Delice de Bourgogne was a favorite — so gooey and delicate it dissolved on our tongues.

Main courses were less exciting than the cheeses, but still savory. The paupiettes de poisson du jour ($28) — grouper wrapped in thinly sliced potatoes and served over green beans — was simple but filling, while a duck confit and wild mushroom risotto ($23) was rich with a delightful texture.

The star of this show, for us, was not the food. It was the pleasant attitude of the staff, who went out of their way to ensure our comfort throughout the evening, and who excitedly discussed the menu and aided us in our choices. We also weren't rushed to get our check — a novelty for an American restaurant.

To get the story behind Edwins, read my profile on Chrostowski, "Food for Thought," which appeared in the October issue of Cleveland Magazine and can be found on our website. 

You Haven't Heard of Edwins...Yet

Lots of people go to prison. And they face serious obstacles once they get out when it comes to making their way, finding employment and establishing a normal life. The sad truth is that many end up back inside, caught in a cycle of recidivism that defines the rest of their lives. A small group of people in Cleveland led by Brandon Chrostowski, general manager, sommelier and fromager at L’Albatros, is doing something to change that story.

The project is called Edwins Leadership and Restaurant Institute. It’s a six-month foundational culinary industry education program for formerly incarcerated men and women. It will provide front and back of the house training and a working restaurant that is open to the public where on the job skills can be learned and practiced. The plan is to have an accomplished professional chef helming the kitchen. Participants will also do internships at other local restaurants. The non-profit group is taking a holistic approach: they’re partnering with a number of local agencies and organizations to integrate an array of support services such as counseling, financial coaching, transitional housing, literacy and medical care into the package. Specifics of what will be taught and details of all the other types of assistance offered are on the website.

The idea started in Chrostowski’s head and has been in development for almost ten years. Now he’s ready to go from concept to action. He and Matt Fieldman, who serves as Edwins’ President, and their board need are considering a location at 69th and Euclid in the MidTown neighborhood. The building is currently being renovated, and the restaurant build out wouldn’t happen until after that is completed. The goal is to open early next year. But reaching it depends on raising the necessary capital. According to Brandon and Matt nothing quite like this exists. There are, Matt told me, “re-entry cafes” in other cities that offer some minimal training. But this will be a fine dining establishment.

Edwins now needs friends and funds. At a kick-off event I attended earlier this summer, Chrostowski spoke eloquently to a crowd about his motivation and his dream. “This is about second chances,” he said. “I’ve made some mistakes in my life, and I was able to recover from them. The restaurant business taught me about teamwork, respect, and humility- things that made me the successful person I am today. This is a chance for me to give back, to provide mentors and opportunities, and to help people get back on their feet.”

Later in the evening Judge Dan Polster said a few words on behalf of Edwins that touched me deeply. “In the American system of justice the idea is “do the crime, do the time, then move on.” But unfortunately that’s not always what happens. Many are not able to move on.” He noted that with a job, the odds of staying out of jail are much much better than without one, and went on to explain that in his Jewish tradition, the highest level of righteousness is not give charity but to give people the tools they need to be self-sufficient. “This program aims to do that, to give an individual back their dignity and a way to succeed.”

This is a noble and important effort. It deserves this community’s support. And there are many ways to step up from writing a check and letting potential donors know about this effort to introducing the Edwins team to possible sponsors and collaborators. If we all do a little, a lot can happen.

A Cheesy Gift Idea

What do you buy for the cheese lover who has everything? Brandon Chrostowski, sommelier and fromager at L’Albatros, recommends sending your friend on a trip to cheese heaven via the restaurant’s new Cheese of the Month program.

Club membership (available on a monthly basis) provides a delivery of seasonal cheeses, each hand-selected by Chrostowski. The package includes three half-pound pieces of cheese, accompanied by hand-written descriptions of the selection and suggested wine pairings.

Chrostowski’s established relationships with cheese mongers across the United States ensure that his clients get the best of the best.

“They’re giving me top wheels,” he says. “I’ve been working with these people five or ten years, some of them.”

The fromager is not new to the cheese scene himself, having worked in restaurants in Chicago, Paris and New York before accepting Zack Bruell’s offer to develop a cheese board at L’Albatros.

The club’s cheeses come from across the homeland and abroad. Recently featured were Rush Creek Reserve from Wisconsin and Mimolette from France, both of which were delectable enough that Chrostowski sent them to club members without a second thought.

The selection offered through Cheese of the Month is at times similar to the restaurant’s cheese board but often features unique and hard-to-get wheels. Discerning members can request a specific type of cheese, but less certain members can rest assured that they’re in good hands.

“You’re going to get three great pieces of cheese that are seasonally perfect and ripe,” Chrostowski says. “It’s a little taste of heaven every 30 days.”

The Cheese of the Month club is $60 per month plus shipping. To sign up or send a membership as a gift, call L’Albatros: 216-791-7880.