The Wait for Michael Symon's Mabel's BBQ Continues

Unless you've been living under a rock, you've likely been part of the crowds trudging past the still-shuttered former La Strada storefront on East Fourth Street sniffing the air for a hint of barbecue.

Cleveland sweetheart chef Michael Symon claimed the empty restaurant next to Lola Bistro last year, promising to turn it into the go-to spot for Cleveland-style barbecue (and if that's not enough to warm your belly, you might like to know it's named for his late pooch, Mabel, a bullmastiff).

We reported in our July issue feature on Symon by managing editor Kim Schneider that Mabel's "coming soon" sign would be replaced with "now open" by the end of summer. In a recent press release, Symon confirmed the long-anticipated location will open its doors by fall.

According to Symon, who is famed for his love of all things four-legged, barbecue has its own regional flair, meaning brisket from Texas isn't quite like the mutton in Kentucky or the pulled pork sandwiches in North Carolina. His goal is to put Cleveland on the map, drawing out our local preferences for applewood smoke, ballpark mustard and maple syrup.

And we've been hearing about the scrumptious goodies to come ever since, but repeated delays have foiled our plans for smoked meats slathered in sauce, burnt ends and beans, trays toppling with brisket.

It's been a long wait, but we'll go to great lengths for Symon's signature carnivorous cuisine.

Five Stars and Full Stomachs

Talk about a gut-buster.

This weekend saw the year's biggest influx in culinary talent with the annual Five Star Sensation food and wine celebration on Saturday, June 27, held in three giant tents on the grounds of Tri-C Eastern Campus. A benefit for the University Hospitals Seidman Cancer Center (raising more than $2.3 million), this is perhaps the most exciting event for attendees since its inception in 1987, and among the busiest for restaurateurs. 

Guests waited as long as an hour to try
Symon's famous beef-cheek pierogies.

Hosted this year by Cleveland sweetheart Michael Symon (Lola), the event always draws lots of "oooohs" and "mmmms." But it's difficult to appreciate just how much work goes on behind the tents.

"There were [more than] 2,000 tickets sold," said Karen Small, chef and owner of the Flying Fig in Ohio City, who served burrata with caponata and garlic and jambon beurre (a delightfully rustic French ham sandwich). "We probably made too much."

About 2,300 people attended the 2015 Five Star Sensation.

Behind the smiles and crisp white chef jackets were rows upon rows of food warmers, portable ovens, stovetops and prep tables stacked with pans of every shape and size, and each chef came with an entourage to help grill, sauce, assemble and serve each meticulous plate.

Matthew Mytro and Paul Minnillo of Flour in Moreland Hills echoed Small's sentiments. Quickly, Mytro said over his shoulder, "It's been so busy. There are just so many people," as he continued to hand out his crispy-coated eggplant and zucchini meatballs.

Chef Douglas Katz's spring pea panna cotta
with smoked salmon, radish and pea tendrils

The star-studded event featured many of Cleveland's heavy-hitters — such as Rocco Whalen, Eric Williams, Douglas Katz and Jonathon Sawyer — but the event drew nearly 50 chefs in total, from Honolulu to Dallas to Boston, not to mention another three dozen vintners and importers of wine, Champagne and port. Know your stuff? Get ready for some name-dropping:

Traci Des Jardins (Jardiniere, San Francisco), Marc Forgione (American Cut, New York), Paul Kahan (The Publican, Chicago), Hubert Keller (Fleur by Hubert Keller, Las Vegas), Ken Oringer (Toro, Boston), Charles Pan (The Slanted Door, San Francisco), Aaron Sanchez (Paloma, Stamford, Connecticut), Francois Payard (Payard Patisserie & Bistro, New York), Daniel Skurnick (Buddakan, New York). The list goes on.

We're used to seeing the headliners milling about, directing their teams from afar, mingling with fellow chefs and trying some of the other dishes of the evening. Not so this night.

As the crowds thinned and the cook tents began packing up, Small took off her apron and looked around at all the tastes she'd missed. 

"The Slanted Door is probably one of my favorite places in the world, and I've traveled a lot," said Small, a little wistfully.

Hop to It: Easter Meals to Try

Step away from the stove. You deserve a holiday off kitchen duty. So taste something new at one of these culinary Easter meals that put a new twist on the standard ham and green beans fare.

DOWNTOWN

1890 Restaurant
420 Superior Ave., East, Cleveland, cleveland.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/1890restaurant.html, 216-776-4576,  $35, children under 12 $15, 10 a.m.-2:00 p.m.

Here, you can toast Easter Sunday with a glass of Champagne. Partake in the pecan- and maple-glazed smoked ham carving station, and save room for a dessert buffet. But if you’re cutting back on calories, try the farmers market options including Amish cheese boards. Reserve your seat online or call ahead.

InterContinental Hotel Cleveland

North Coast Cafe and Table 45, 9801 Carnegie Ave., Cleveland, 216-707-4045, hotelsclevelandclinic.com, tbl45.com, $50, children 6-10 $21, 11 a.m. -3 p.m.
A complimentary children’s egg hunt and mimosas make this brunch a no-brainer. Chefs Klaus Happel and Donna Chriszt offer a twists on favorite world cuisine dishes. Savor your gourmet brunch to the sounds of the Cleveland Institute of Music jazz trio.

Pickwick & Frolic
2035 E. Fourth St., Cleveland 216-241-7425 pickwickandfrolic.com/2015/03/easter-brunch-2, $34.95, children 3 and under free, 10:3 0a.m.-4 p.m.
With the Easter bunny hopping over to East Fourth Street for photo ops, your kiddies will love this one. Plus the more than 50 artfully prepared dishes will please parents too.

Sans Souci
24 Public Square, Cleveland, 216-902-4095, sanssoucicleveland.com, 6 -10 a.m. breakfast buffet, 10 a.m.- 3 p.m. full buffet
Moms, chef Michael Harp has got this one covered. An upscale carving station offers smoked espresso-crusted leg of lamb with quinoa and kale salad, and strawberry and black pepper nectar. Desserts include a crème brulee cheesecake and triple chocolate mousse. Reservations suggested.

The Spread Buffet
100 Public Square Cleveland, 216-297-4777, caesars.com/horseshoe-cleveland/restaurants/the-spread-buffet, Total Rewards members $29.99, non-member, $31.99, 8 a.m.-3 p.m.
Go global with cultural dishes from Italian and Asian stations that will make you feel like your taste buds hit the jackpot. There’s no need to make tough choices here; so sample it all from corned beef hash to Mongolian beef to spring vegetable risotto.

Urban Farmer
1325 E. Sixth St., Cleveland 216-771-7707, urbanfarmercleveland.com/happenings, $46, children under 12 $19, 8 a.m.-3 p.m.
The focus here is farm fresh and build your own. Try organic carved meats and omelets or get creative at the waffle bar or eggs Benedict bar. Wash it all down a concoction from the bloody mary bar. Reservations recommended.

WEST

100th Bomb Group
20920 Brookpark Road, Cleveland, 216-267-1010, 100thbgrestaurant.com, $40.95, $19.95, 9:30 a.m -4:30 p.m.
Take in historic memorabilia along with a view of the Cleveland Hopkins International Airport runway while sipping Champagne and indulging in gourmet delights from Easter kielbasa to seafood Norwegian pasta. The Easter bunny is expected to make an appearance. 

EAST

Flour
34205 Chagrin Blvd., Moreland Hills, 216-464-3700, flourrestaurant.com, $11-16, 10:30a.m. -3 p.m.
Bottomless mimosas will help deal with the inevitable family drama while a la carte eggs Benedict, shrimp and grits, and breakfast paninis will satisfy your tummy.

Moxie
3355 Richmond Road, Beachwood, 216-831-5599, moxietherestaurant.com, $34.50, children 4-12, $17.50, children 3 and under are free, 10:30a.m. -2:30p.m.
Traditional dishes get elevated here with options such as chef-carved ginger- and brown sugar-glazed ham, chef-carved black pepper- and herb roasted-prime rib with au jus and horseradish, and creme fraiche. Carrot cake and lemon pound cake with mixed berry compote make for a sweet ending.

Valenti’s Ristorante 
3365 Richmond Road, Suite 130, 216-464-4665, visitbeachwoodohio.com/events/valentis-ristorante-easter-brunch, $32.50, children 4-12 $16, 11:30 a.m.- 6 p.m., last seating at 4:45p.m. 
Taste unique culinary offerings such as blueberry sausage along with options from the carving station and antipasti station. Plus, if you are in the mood for Italian, chicken picatta is on the menu.


SOUTH

One Red Door

49 Village Way, Hudson, 330-342-3667, onereddoorhudson.com, 10 a.m. -3 p.m.
Lemon ricotta pancakes, breakfast pizza and house-made sausage provide a sweet and savory start to your holiday. The a la carte brunch goes beyond a.m. fare with pizzas, sandwiches and salads, but it also offers the most important element to a morning meal out: a make-your-own bloody mary bar.

Additional reporting by Aziza Doleh