Eat, Drink, Learn

In his long and successful career chef Paul Minnillo has always been ahead of the culinary curve. He  was interested in the wines from Napa long before it was stylish and his relationships with some of the region's premier producers have deep roots. He celebrates one of those connections with a Burgess Cellars wine dinner on November  5 at Flour, his Italian inspired restaurant in Moreland Hills. Winery founder Tom Burgess and Minnillo go way back- both attended Miami of Ohio and before he relocated to the west coast, Tom worked for an Akron based company. His son Steve has taken over the label now that his father is retired and will host the five course pairing. 

The 2008 vintages will be featured including  Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah. Grapes come from the slopes of Howell Mountain, where the soil and exposure bring out the best in these red varietals. No doubt the menu Minnillo and Chef Matt Mytro create to accompany these wines, along with sparkling rose. an chardonnay to get things started, will be superb. The Monday night meal runs from 6:30-8:30 PM. The cost is $85 plus tax and gratuity and reservations are required.

Another event at Flour you might want to book is the brining class the two chefs are leading on Sunday, November 11, from 11 AM-1 PM. Using this technique is a near guarantee that your holiday turkey (pork roast and chicken too) will emerge from the oven moist and flavorful (unless you overcook it). Sip wine, snack and pick up some pointers from the experts. $75 per person. Call to reserve your seat.

And while you're in a reservation making mode, don't forget it's Cleveland Restaurant Week Nov 5- 19. Participating establishments offer prix fixe 3 course menus for $33, and you can see them online. It's always a great opportunity to support local independent restaurants. Think of it as your civic duty. So get out there and eat- you're sure to find bargains and you just might discover a new place that becomes a favorite.

Minnillo and Mytro Making Magic at Flour

Like the perfect couple, Paul Minnillo and Matt Mytro bring out the best in each other. The two chefs discovered they have great chemistry in the kitchen when Paul hired the younger guy last fall to fill the exec chef spot at Flour, his 9-month-old Moreland Hills restaurant. Evidence for what a good match-up this has proven to be is on the plates they’re sending out. Since the pair started cooking up a storm together, the hours have been extended to include lunch service, and I finally got there last week to sample some of what the new midday winter menu has to offer. If you’re short of time and don’t intend to read all the following paragraphs, let me give you the nutshell summary: Hurry up and go! The food’s marvelous.

The gray day was considerably brighter after the cara cara citrus salad arrived at the table. The mix of juicy red tinged slices of orange, slivers of white fennel and bright green pea tendrils dressed in a smoked tomato vinaigrette tasted as good as it looked. Same with a small skillet of sweet, meaty chorizo-stuffed dates wrapped in pancetta and surrounded by a smooth, thick roasted red pepper sauce. I loved the dried olives that dotted the chop salad and the choice of Moody blue, a delicate, lightly smoked cheese.

Manila clams and mussels are cooked in the pizza oven, and something wonderful happens to the shellfish in there. They come floating in a parmesan broth with bits of sausage and pickled fennel. It's really an outstanding dish, served with flat bread to soak up all the liquid. Another excellent and season-hearty dish is the Calabrian stew, made with Italian sausage, perfectly tender white beans, parsnips and braised pork shoulder. A paste made from Calabrian chiles, a small spicy pepper from the region, gives a slight and welcome bit of kick.

And then there are the paninis: warm sandwiches that are elevated to something extra special because of what goes into them. Pickled red onions interact deliciously with Minnillo’s sausage and smoked mozzarella. Italian mustard is a nice touch with the housemade mortadella.

But the version that truly had me sighing with pleasure was one made with shredded short ribs. They’re slow simmered, Mytro told me, in chocolate milk (really). He explained that the sugars caramelize as it tenderizes the meat. The result is ridiculously good. Then they tuck it between slices of toasted bread with pancetta, a fried egg and arugula. Bites. Of. Bliss.

I'm happy to report that for those unlikely to visit the restaurant during the day, a number of these items also make an appearance on the dinner menu. But some, like the paninis are lunch-only options. My advice: Take a sick day. It's not a lie. Because no doubt you'll leave Flour feeling much better than when you arrived.
photos by Lisa Minnillo

Flour Time

It’s always a pleasure to report on the launch of the latest local restaurant. So I’m happy to start spreading the word that Flour, a rustic Italian eatery in Moreland Hills, is now serving dinner. In the hyper competitive restaurant industry where the rate of failure is high, this place has all the ingredients for success, most notably chef/owners with lots of experience, business smarts, and real culinary talent.

Chef Paul Minnillo is the Big Daddy here. He’s earned many awards and accolades over the course of a long career defined by creativity, high standards, and a European sensibility for the pleasures of eating. He’s also had a major -and positive- influence on the Cleveland dining scene and the people who make it happen. One of those people is his partner in this venture Chris DiLisi. The young chef cooked with him at Baricelli Inn. Flour reflects their shared vision for a place that’s so welcoming, reasonably priced, and appealing that the public will drop by often and regularly; early, late and in between; for a glass of wine-there will be around 30 sold by the pour- and a cheese or salumi board at the bar, or a full on antipasti to entrée feast.

The menu, which will likely be tweaked in the coming weeks and months, has a mix of starters and salads that work equally well as small plates for snacking and sharing; pasta in half and whole portions; and a small selection of heartier secondi-two fish and one each of chicken, beef, pork , and veal. And then there are the pizzas: the 10 inch rounds are baked in wood burning pizza oven, manned by an Ohio native who polished his skills as a pizzaiola in Turin.

The plan is that almost everything, from foccacia and ricotta salata to ice cream will be made in house, from scratch.

I’ve already been there twice, both visits before it opened to public. The first time was during the final, finishing stages of construction, a few weeks ago when the kitchens were still surgical suite clean. Tables and chairs weren’t in place yet and the polished concrete floor was awaiting one more coating. But there was no doubt that I was seeing a sophisticated, sexy space in the making, an impression that was confirmed when I returned eight days ago for a “friends and family meal.” I ran into Tony Anselmo that night. He’s co-owner of Premier Produce, a food purveyor that supplies most-if not all- of the best restaurants in town and an old friend of Minnillo’s. He was visibly proud of his pal and said to me, “How ‘bout this guy. At 61 he starts all over again, with a new concept and a new place. Now that’s a story.” I couldn’t agree more and I'm looking forward to the all the tasty ways this story will unfold.

Baricelli has a Big Birthday

Over the years, the Baricelli Inn has been the scene of so many celebrations. People have chosen the charming manor house setting to mark anniversaries and graduations, toast brides and grooms, honor achievements and milestones. But last week, the place itself turned twenty five and the event provided the prompt for a party. That kind of longevity in this industry is quite an accomplishment and a testament to chef and owner Paul Minnillo’s talent and determination. He was preparing extraordinary food long before guys in the kitchen had the cachet of rock stars. Many of Cleveland’s most prominent younger chefs, including Michael Symon, acknowledge his influence and the importance of his contributions to the local dining community.

Minnillo’s quarter century adventure began when he purchased the 19th century stone mansion on the corner of Cornell Road and Murray Hill in Little Italy from the Baricelli family estate. It had been empty for years and his son John, who now works with him as front of the house manager, told me it was in utter disrepair without functioning electrical or plumbing systems. The renovations required four years to complete. My twin sons were born the same month Paul opened the restaurant. I was thinking about both those new beginnings, and all that’s happened since then, while enjoying the wonderful birthday dinner he and his staff created for family, friends, and fans.

The menu and pairings were outstanding: lobster bisque/ Robert Foley Pinot Blanc 2007; duck sugo (a stewy sort of slow simmered sauce) on pappardelle/ Jos. Drouhin Chorey-les-Beaune 2006; braised lamb shank with celery root puree and wine reduction /Domain La Roquette Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005: artisanl cheese plate/ Chateau La Vielle Cure 2004; and pear tart tatin/ Warres 10 year Tawny Port.

This was without a doubt a very special occasion. But don’t wait for one of your own to visit. A couple of years ago, responding to changing preferences and economic realities, Minnillo retooled his approach, moving away from a purely fancy fine dining model to one that is includes more casual and moderately priced options. So any night’s the right night to enjoy what this landmark restaurant has to offer, no event or reason, other than a desire for something good to eat and drink- required.