Good Fit, Close Quarters

Without planning on it, I seem to be on a tear about small spots. Last month I wrote about Tony's Southside in Tremont and Orale in Ohio City. Now I've got a third one, this time on the East Side. Gigi's on Fairmount opened in Cleveland Heights, a few doors down from On the Rise bakery, in late 2013. A labor of love for husband and wife Gia Ilijasic and Jim Patsch, who explain their new venture as the natural outgrowth of their personal enthusiasm for good food, good drink and good times, the pretty little place bills itself as a wine cafe. Based on how busy it was on a recent cold and blustery week night, it looks as though it's just what the neighborhood needed.

 My girlfriend and I found a nice, reasonably priced bottle of Italian red and shared an artisan cheese platter that included jam, dried fruit, nuts and — best of all — a pool of lavender honey. We also got a mix-n-match bruschetta board, selecting four toppings from a long list of options: white bean and kalamata olive tapenade, house-made trout pate, shredded roast pork flavored with lime and cilantro, and caponata made with lamb and feta. All were quite tasty. The kitchen also offers a daily soup or two, salads, overstuffed pannini, charcuterie and a couple of entree style specials nightly.

I really like Gigi's, but so do lots of other people and that's the problem. It was incredibly loud and 45 seats are crammed uncomfortably close together. It felt like we were sitting shoulder-to-shoulder with the people on either side of us. Private conversation was not possible and by the time we left my throat was sore from shouting over the din. I'm looking forward to the warm weather when they'll expand to the sidewalk out front.

Hidden in Plain Sight

Tony's Southside is out in the open. There's even a big sign. But you're not likely to find it unless you know what to look for. The exterior of this tiny Tremont restaurant and bar, located at 2193 Professor Ave., gives no hint of what's on the other side of the door. The place has no website, and doesn't have an active Facebook page. Owners Anthony Tuleta and his wife, Eleny, intentionally keep a very low profile. People hear about it, like I did, from someone who's been there. And yet, it has a cult following.

On a Friday or Saturday night, the only two days of the week the restaurant welcomes guests, you can't be sure to get a table without reservations, and there are precious few of those available as the restaurant seats just 25 to 30 people. But be forewarned — when you call to make one (216-771-0515), you'll likely have to leave a voicemail message and wait patiently for a call back to find out if they can accommodate you. It's all part of its off-the-beaten-path, speakeasy, hideaway allure. And one other low-tech aspect of what they do — no credit cards are accepted, so come prepared to pay with cash.

 
The back story for this spot is as charming as the interior, all polished wood and soft lighting like a library in a posh, old mansion. The Tuleta's grew up in the neighborhood and his parents operated a a classic red and white checkered tablecloth pizza and spaghetti joint out of this location in the 80's. They passed on, and Tony's was closed for a number of years. But in 2009, the couple decided to revive the family business, doing an extensive remodel and rethinking of its concept.

It's still Italian food with a nod to Eleny's Greek heritage but more upscale. Tony Tuleta does all the cooking, making long simmering sauces and letting the dough, used for the diminutive personal pizzas, rise and rest for three days. One of his sisters will likely be your server, and his wife tends the bar, mixing up craft cocktails with as much care as a grandma at her stove.

They restaurant keeps late hours, until 1 a.m., and will stay open even later if you phone to say you're coming. There's no special knock or password to get in, but this hidden local gem still has the romance of a secret.