Debt of Gratitude

Photo courtesy This Is Cleveland

This was the headline and subhead of a recent piece posted on citylab.com: "Restaurants Really Can Determine the Fate of Cities and Neighborhoods — A new survey shows how much food influences the vibrance of urban centers." We've experienced this firsthand in Cleveland. Just think about what's happened over the past few years in Ohio City, Tremont, Gordon Square, Flats East Bank, East Fourth Street, and Shaker Square and Lee Road in Cleveland Heights. And I think it would be appropriate to offer a loud, energetic communal thanks to all the visionary chefs, entrepreneurs and investors who made commitments to these areas that helped bring about their revival and resurgence.

 
Turns out, this is just the right moment to show appreciation. Cleveland Independents, an association of locally owned and operated non-chain, non-franchise restaurants — the true drivers of the culinary renaissance that has brought so much energy to both our food scene and and our communities — is celebrating its 10th anniversary. Now 90 members strong and spanning a geography that goes from Sandusky to Mentor and Canton, the organization sponsors year round efforts to get people's attention. There's Restaurant Week, the deck of discount cards for food purchases, and gift cards redeemable at any member restaurant. Promotions such as these are good for business and good for the neighborhood.

Almost half of those urban residents questioned for the above mentioned study revealed that new restaurants are a top reason for exploring different parts of their city. A whopping 82 percent included restaurants among the main things they appreciate about where they live and a majority cited food and restaurants when talking about the cities they love to visit. These numbers confirm what we've been learning here ever since Carl Quagliata brought dining to the Warehouse District and Michael Symon made it trendy to go to Professor Street to eat.

Cleveland's on the upswing and I believe a large portion of credit should go to our culinary community. A round of social media applause would be nice. Showing support by going out to their restaurants — even better.

A Cleveland Classic

Sitting alone in Prosperity Social Club waiting for a friend to arrive, I had time to pose myself a question: What do I love about this place? Quite simply — everything. But for those who'd prefer a more detailed catalog of particulars that make this Tremont bar and restaurant appealing, here's the list I jotted down until my companion showed up:

- The genuine, scuffed-up, been-here-a-long-time authenticity that no interior designer can create.
- The vintage beer signs and the recreation room-style paneled walls they hang on.
- The worn and well-used wooden chairs.
- The long bar rubbed to a sheen by countless elbows and even more swipes with a damp cloth.
- The funky arcade games.
- The unpretentious mix of people that tend to congregate here — though there are always those who work hard at appearing hip, there are more that just work hard.
- The good things to eat and drink, with options that can be healthy or not, comfort or creative, heavy or light.
- Its house-made potato chips, build-your-own mac 'n' cheese, stuffed cabbage and pierogies.
- The friendly greetings that don't include the servers name. (Establishments that train their people to come to the table and interrupt your conversation with a, "Hi, my name is Ashley and I'll be your server tonight," should rethink this silly practice. It always makes me want to say, "Hi, I'm Laura and I'll be your customer.")
- Its great happy hour deals.

 
Once there were two of us, I gave up musing on the assets and focused on enjoying them. We had a really outstanding summer cocktail — a combination of Pimms and ginger beer — a Greek salad, roasted vegetable empanadas, and a pound of mussels in a buttery, garlicky white wine broth so good that it was necessary to get a second order. There were no leftovers.

In a perfect world, Prosperity would be on the East Side, closer to where I live. Otherwise I wouldn't change a thing about this spot, where drafts have been pulled and shots have been tossed back since 1938.

Hidden in Plain Sight

Tony's Southside is out in the open. There's even a big sign. But you're not likely to find it unless you know what to look for. The exterior of this tiny Tremont restaurant and bar, located at 2193 Professor Ave., gives no hint of what's on the other side of the door. The place has no website, and doesn't have an active Facebook page. Owners Anthony Tuleta and his wife, Eleny, intentionally keep a very low profile. People hear about it, like I did, from someone who's been there. And yet, it has a cult following.

On a Friday or Saturday night, the only two days of the week the restaurant welcomes guests, you can't be sure to get a table without reservations, and there are precious few of those available as the restaurant seats just 25 to 30 people. But be forewarned — when you call to make one (216-771-0515), you'll likely have to leave a voicemail message and wait patiently for a call back to find out if they can accommodate you. It's all part of its off-the-beaten-path, speakeasy, hideaway allure. And one other low-tech aspect of what they do — no credit cards are accepted, so come prepared to pay with cash.

 
The back story for this spot is as charming as the interior, all polished wood and soft lighting like a library in a posh, old mansion. The Tuleta's grew up in the neighborhood and his parents operated a a classic red and white checkered tablecloth pizza and spaghetti joint out of this location in the 80's. They passed on, and Tony's was closed for a number of years. But in 2009, the couple decided to revive the family business, doing an extensive remodel and rethinking of its concept.

It's still Italian food with a nod to Eleny's Greek heritage but more upscale. Tony Tuleta does all the cooking, making long simmering sauces and letting the dough, used for the diminutive personal pizzas, rise and rest for three days. One of his sisters will likely be your server, and his wife tends the bar, mixing up craft cocktails with as much care as a grandma at her stove.

They restaurant keeps late hours, until 1 a.m., and will stay open even later if you phone to say you're coming. There's no special knock or password to get in, but this hidden local gem still has the romance of a secret.

Leap of Faith with Food

  I've written about a number of newly minted culinary entrepreneurs this year, and now there's another one to report on. His name is Mike Griffin and he opened Crust on Kenilworth in Tremont nine weeks ago (and lost one of them to the power outage courtesy of Hurricane Sandy). It's strictly take-out and the menu offers only pizza, subs, salads, gnocchi. But this is not ordinary meal-in-a-box fare. Dough, bread, and pasta are made on site from scratch and by hand. Ingredients are high end and local when possible. Sauces, toppings, and combinations are inventive and thoughtful. Chef Jeff Fisher, formerly at Touch Supper Club, has been serving as a consultant and hands on adviser and his professional influence is evident. (No surprise that Griffen wants to convince him to make the arrangement permanent). This is upscale restaurant style food, at bargain prices, for dining at home feasts.

   I "discovered" Crust recently when doing a book signing for Cleveland's West Side Market: 100 Years & Still Cooking at Visible Voice across the street. A woman bought a copy then went to over to pick up some dinner for herself. She came back about 15 minutes later with a container of roasted tomato ricotta gnocchi in a Parmesan broth for me, courtesy of Fisher, who I've known for years. Apparently while waiting for her order, she talked about the book and mentioned that I was in the store. He wanted me to get a taste of what they're doing and she very kindly I offered to handle delivery. It was superb, full of the flavor of garlic and fresh basil, white wine, and a hint of lemon. The gnocchi struck just the right balance between airiness and density, somehow being both light and yet substantial.    

   Went over later to say thank you and have a look. The space is really just a big kitchen with a counter, and a couple of tables and stools where customers can wait fro their orders. I met Griffin, who left the computer field to start this business. It's not entirely unprecedented- he has some history working at Deanatella's in Valley View, an old school, family run Italian deli.When his cousin,who owns Visible Voice, told him about  the vacant storefront, he decided it was time to take the leap. He loves having the West Side Market just minutes away and is a regular at the Tremont Farmer's Market.

  Though I've only tried one dish, I know just by reading what goes on the pies, in the sandwiches and over the pasta- lemon rosemary chicken, Tuscan fennel salami, chorizo, roasted garlic mayo, baby arugula, smoked mozzarella, sage and butternut squash, pancetta, balsamic reduction, caramelized onions, Parmesan cream, white truffle oil...that this is stuff I want to eat. I'll have to drive from east to west and back again to make that happen, but I'm highly motivated by Griffin's commitment to serve up the best. "I come in at 6:30 every morning to bake the bread. Making our pizza dough is a two day process.This is a neighborhood with so much great food," he says. "I have to bring my A-game."

Live Long and Prosper[ity]

I like the Prosperity Social Club in Tremont. A lot. It’s my kind of place from the neighborhood tavern vibe and well worn vintage furnishings to the drinkable, modestly priced wines on the little list and the really good food. I like the way upscale and its opposite come together seamlessly here, and I feel at ease amongst the clientele. a mixed bag of ages and attitudes . But I don’t go there often, in large part because I live on the other side of town. So I was so pleased when an old friend I hadn't seen in a long time suggested this as our meetup spot for some kicking back and catching up.

It was still Happy Hour when we settled in on bar stools so I was able to get a big glass of sangria for just $4.50, which led to a second. The mussels were just $3 a dozen. Hummus, stuffed grape leaves, potato pancakes and empanadas could all be had for a fiver until the clock struck 7 pm. It was also a Wednesday, and on Wednesdays Prosperity offers what they call Recession Relief, knocking $3 off the price of every entrée. Makes me hungry just thinking about this deal. Other nights have their own special perks: $5 cheeseburgers on Tuesdays and on Thursdays the $15.50 strip steak is just $10. Kitchen’s open late too.

And did I mention the game room? Oh, and the live music two nights a week? What it all adds up to is an affordable way to get out and socialize.

Photos by Jesse Kramer

Far East on the Near West [Side]

Chef Zack Bruell invited me to come sample some dishes on the new fall menu at Parallax. Continuing to express his fascination with Pacific Rim cuisines, he’s put together a freshened line-up of Thai, Korean, Vietnamese, and Japanese inflected dishes. I was wowed by the spot-on balance of flavors in everything I tasted: the flawless meeting and mating of sweet with sour, the just-right saltiness, the richness of meat and seafood offset with spice, vinegar, and citrus. One word describes Bruell’s culinary concepts, the ability of his kitchen team to execute them, and my experience last Friday night: impeccable.

I let the in-house experts choose glass pours to go with each dish and the selections- white with meat, red with fish- surprised and pleased. The pours, based on sauces and seasonings, rather then the traditional paradigm, really brought out the best in the food.

Here’s what I ate and drank:
-lettuce wraps filled with slow roasted pork, served with spicy Korean kimchee and pickled onions and peppers
2007 Von Buhl Armand Riesling Kabinett
-braised short rib pot stickers
2008 Hiedler Grüner Veltliner
-roasted beet and ginger salad with curried cashews
2006 Soave Classico Inama
-seared scallops with pickled plum sauce and coconut rice
2004 Maison Faively Pinot Noir
- fennel-coriander crusted seared tuna with pickled shiitakes and red ver jus
2006 Castello Sonnino Chianti di Montespertoli

Tried two desserts, both outstanding and noteworthy for a light hand with the sugar: lemongrass crème brulee and ginger cheesecake with grapefruit almond crust.

Lunch is also now available at the W.11th Street spot. Dine Asian on sushi, a Vietnamese sub, and Japanese fried chicken or stick to more all American- though definitely scaled up- fare like a cobb salad, chili dog, or walleye sandwich.

If you haven't ever been to Parallax, or haven't been there in a while, I'd say now's the time.

Tremont traffic gripe

This morning in my e-mail inbox, I got this report from the Tremont West Development Corp.:

As many of you are aware, the W. 14th Street entrance ramp to I-90 eastbound was closed to traffic in late May 2008 after Ohio Department of Transportation (ODOT) inspectors noted abnormal movement in the connection between the ramp and the I-90 Innerbelt Bridge.

The Department expects an updated, 3-Dimensional inspection report in mid-September which will help the agency to better understand the problems between the ramp connection and the Innerbelt Bridge as a whole and determine a solution to the problem. The ramp will remain closed indefinitely as this high-tech inspection report is reviewed, evaluated and possible repair or replacement methods are conceptualized.

OK, I have dealt with city/county/state governments for a long time. I know how long this junk takes. But four months to get a report? Then who knows how long to draft a plan, secure funding, get permits, and so on and son on? When you live in Tremont and have friends on the east side off the bus route, this ranks pretty high on the pain-in-the-ass list.

And one more note: Their suggested detour is ridiculous.

Motorists may detour west via Abbey Ave., on to W. 20th Street north, east over the Lorain-Carnegie Bridge, north on E. 18th St. and east on Prospect Ave. to I-90 eastbound.

Any Tremonter knows to hop on 490 to 77 North to 90 East. Wind through downtown? Come on.

Tremont's Sweet Spot

I just met Lilly, aka Amanda Montague, Cleveland’s own Cocoa Queen, the Czarina of Confectionary, the Duchess of Decadent Delights. And she has hot pink hair. It matches the walls of her new Tremont shop on Starkweather, where she sells her own handmade chocolates. The place is without a doubt, a grown-up Candy Land. That’s because Mis Lil likes to spike her sweet creations with spirits and adult flavors. There’s the Redhead made with vintage port and dark chocolate; the Southern Gentleman that pairs Makers Mark bourbon with buttered pecans and milk chocolate; and a little oh-my-god good round of dark chocolate filled with cherries soaked in kirsch brandy she calls BoozieSuzies. “I’m not shy,” she tells me, “and neither is my chocolate.” She also stocks a selection of wine, beer, and bubbly that complement it.

The self taught chocolatier uses espresso ganache in a confection she christened Breakfast (I love the concept of a start the day chocolate); black mission figs in the Chomp Monster, and masala chai tea in the Raja. The girl has a way with words as well as roasted hazelnuts and caramel. How can you not want a treat called Sweet Cheeks? A real neighborhood booster she's named some things after local culinary achievers: the Rocco, for Fahrenheit’s big man, features black truffle infused honey; the Heather, in honor of her neighbor next door at Lucky’s Café, is spiked with cayenne; and the Mike, a Symon spectacular that combines milk chocolate and bacon. Her stuff is pretty too, coated with gold specks and lavender dust, or topped with colorful designs and intricate transfer patterns.

I spent five minutes with the woman and realized she’s got a seriously playful streak. So I wasn’t surprised when Lilly told me she’s hosting a reservations only Pajama Party at the store this Saturday, Aug 30, from7:30-9:30 pm. Appropriate dress required if you want to attend and sample her version Rolos, Poprocks, and Chunkies.

761 Starkweather, 216.771.3333 www.lillytremont.com

*Cleveland Magazine food writer Laura Taxel blogs here every Wednesday.