Fundraising Food

   

Last month, Lucky's Cafe owner Heather Haviland threw a small party to honor her mother, Mary Lou Ferguson, who suffers from Alzheimer's disease. (My father also suffers from Alzheimer's, and I can attest it's a terrible disease that shreds the hearts of those who watch it slowly erase the person they know.)

The party raised money for the local Alzheimer's Foundation. Thanks to the efforts of friends — most notably Chef Ky-Wai Wong, a member of Cuyahoga Community College's Culinary Arts faculty — the party also generated funds to provide for Ferguson, a bright and endearing spirit called "mom" by all who know and love her.

Every seat was filled, and more people wanted to attend. So Wong — who was the beneficiary of a similar sort of fundraiser put together by Haviland years ago when one of his children was very ill — has organized another, larger benefit event on March 3. This Dinner in the Dark special edition will be hosted jointly by the Tri-C Hospitality Program and its executive director and chef Brandt Evans, who also owns Pura Vida. Proceeds will go to the Cleveland chapter of The Alzheimer's Foundation. Proceeds from a Chinese Auction will benefit the Haviland family.

Participating restaurants include Fahrenheit, Lola and Lolita, Fire, Amp 150, Cork and Cleaver, Pura Vida, Crust, Lucky's Cafe, Momocho, Spice Kitchen and Bar, Trentina (not yet open), Flying Fig and Nightwood (Chicago). Also participating are Premier Produce, Ahuja Hospital, Tri-C, SOW Food, The Cheese Shop (West Side Market) and Lilly Handmade Chocolates.

Food stations will be set-up throughout Tri-C's Management Center and Pura Vida. Grazing begins at 6:30 p.m.. Tickets are $75.05 each (valet parking included) and must be purchased in advance.

May Dinner in the Dark is an Amp 150 Homecoming

May’s Dinner in the Dark at Amp 150 featured dishes from Rocco Whalen, Michael Lyons and Matt Danko, pastry chef at The Greenhouse Tavern. But the big reveal was the homecoming of Dean Max, the Florida chef who opened Amp 150 in 2009.

Tempura Soft-Shell Crab

Max brought a little taste of Florida in the form of soft-shell crabs that he dipped in tempura batter and served with pickled vegetables, a puree of local ramps and asparagus, and a spicy Korean-inspired sauce on the side. The tempura batter added a welcomed crunch to the delicate crab and the puree was refreshing along with the pickled vegetables. 

Slow-Roasted Lamb Belly

After a blueberry acai sorbet palette cleanser from Jeff Jarrett, the Amp 150 chef who co-founded Dinner in the Dark, diners were treated Michael Lyons’ dish. He prepared lamb belly that was marinated for two days and then slow roasted and served with pureed sunchokes and a spring salad. 

Rehydrated Rye Bread Cake and Caramelized White Chocolate

Danko’s dessert was a rehydrated rye bread cake, caramelized white chocolate, an amoretti and honey crumble and sweet soy sauce. The rye bread cake was surprisingly moist and the sweetness of the white chocolate was offset by the soy sauce. It was a delectable ending to the evening’s menu.

Nate Fagnilli of Crosswinds Grille and Dan Hawrylak of Amp 150 also served up delicious dishes.

Ticket proceeds from this Dinner in the Dark will go to the Butterfly Memorial Gardens in Stow. For more information, visit their Facebook page.

Keep an eye on Dinner in the Dark's website for information on June’s event.

Shining a Light on Dinner in the Dark

How can you not love these people? They work on their day off for no pay. They prepare incredible food, giving guests a truly unique dining experience. And they donate the profits from the sale of tickets to a local charity. I’m talking about Dinner in the Dark, the roving meal events organized by Brian Okin of Luxe and Amp 150’s Jeffrey Jarrett, and the participating professionals. Each month a mixologist and six or more chefs come together at a selected restaurant and each one prepares a course. They’re free to color outside the lines, flex their creative muscles and cook whatever they wish. The roster’s always changing. I was a guest at the July dinner benefiting The AIDS Taskforce of Greater Cleveland held in Crop’s basement vault and was impressed from beginning to end both with what was served (as well as the wine pairings) and the spirit behind it all.

A welcome cocktail arrived moments after I was shown to my seat. Nathan Burdette (Crop), whipped up what he called a Sangrita Construct featuring aged Herradura Reposado tequila, flavored with Peychaud’s Bitters, lime, and a gelatin foam cap that made me think of whipped cream on jello. An ice cube made from tomato juice, orange juice, and orange cordial spiked with ancho chili powder, chipotle powder, onion powder and lime zest added character. The Amuse Bouche by host Steve Schimoler was an excellent crab salad with white truffle, fennel, and red onion on pain au lait.

Course #1 really knocked me out: smoked sturgeon done sous vide in bacon fat and smoked butter with red currant jam, smoked creme fraiche, chicken cracklins, fennel fronds, chile. The fish was just plush and I couldn’t get over how well all the flavors came together for a wholly original taste experience. Credit for it goes to Andrew Gorski, someone I knew nothing about even though he’s been cooking at the Tremont Tap House for the past 13 months. This Culinary Institute of America grad has some impressive names on his employment history including David Burke’s Modern American Cuisine, Thomas Keller’s Bouchon, and Alain Ducasse’s Mix. Came back to Cleveland, his hometown, to live near family. I have no doubt he’s a talent to watch.

Eric Williams (Momocho) did Course #2: chicken and turkey albondingas (meatballs), with a vibrant tomatillo mole that was lick the bowl delicious. Adam Lambert (Bar Cento) was responsible for Course #3, an intriguing presentation of twenty-six hour brined beef tongue accented with powdered caraway and pickled mustard seeds. Next up was a refreshing salad of homegrown mixed greens, ricotta salada, roasted Ohio peaches, pork cracklins from Mike Nowak who will soon open The Black Pig on W. 25th Street.
Nolan Konkoski (SOHO Kitchen & Bar) really showed what he could do with a Brunswick Stew of chicken, rabbit, duck, and vegetables in broth and finished with an egg yolk- the dish managed to be rich and nuanced while also feeling light and summery. The ending, courtesy of pastry chef Lindsey Auten (Crop), was delightful brown butter and blueberry financier (cake) with lemon cream cheese frosting, lemon curd, and blueberry coulis. No one in my line of sight left even a crumb on the plate. Every cook came out to tell us about his or her preparations, heralded by Schimoler banging on a pot with a spoon to get our attention.

Portions were just right- small enough so I didn’t get full too soon but enough so I could enjoy the dish and really experience what the chef intended. Some tables are full of couples and friends. Mine was mostly strangers but we introduced ourselves and came together with a starting toast to food and fun. In the three hours that followed the conversations never flagged. I didn't learn until the very end that I was seated near Andrew Gorski's dad Peter, who proudly presented his to me as we were saying our goodbyes. It was a memorable evening in every way and one I won’t soon forget. Tickets are already on sale for the next Dinner in the Dark, to be held at The Black Pig August 13th. Get yours now. I mean right now. Before it's sold out. You’ll be so glad you did.

All photos by Tom Noe, courtesy of Dinner in the Dark