Good Match

Back in 1999, Chef Donna Chriszt was drawing on world flavors for the food she prepared at Jeso, her highly regarded Clifton Boulevard restaurant, and J Cafe on the East Side. Now she's at it again, this time in the kitchen of Table 45 in the InterContinental Hotel Cleveland, a Zack Bruell concept. It was defined by his modern interpretations of global cuisine and a series of Chef de Cuisine have done their best to execute that since it opened in 2007. Chriszt, with 30 years experience under her apron, is more than up to the task and — based on dishes I sampled at a private tasting of her new summer menu last week — is making it very much her own.

"I've always been inspired by culinary traditions," she says, "as a way to get beyond basic meat-and-potato cooking. But I like to get creative and put my personal twist on ethnic authenticity."

And that's exactly what she does in a fantastic banana leaf smoked trout entree ($23), plated with smashed yucca and sweet potatoes, jicama slaw and a tomatillo vinaigrette. Cultures combine, but don't clash, to delicious effect in the Thai duck breast ($29) — the bird has red curry crust and is served beside coconut risotto, korean kim chee slaw and baby bok choy.
 
Other things I ate and enjoyed on our international tour included Moroccan spiced lamb and beef kebabs (based on a staff member's "secret" family recipe) with a North African salsa, naan and tzatziki  sauce ($15); spicy Spanish shrimp and chorizo ($13); a Middle Eastern fattoush salad ($11); and a flat iron steak grilled and presented with an Argentine chimichurri sauce ($32).

Our small group dined at the private chef's table in the kitchen, which seats eight and can be reserved in advance. With the flair of a natural artist, Chriszt delivered courses with plenty of eye appeal as well as tasty and nuanced seasoning. It's no wonder she was something of a national celebrity before there were star chefs on every corner. She was heralded in Food and Wine, Gourmet, and Food Arts, and invited to cook at the James Beard House before many other Clevelanders. She's been laboring out of the limelight for awhile. But she's in her element now. "I come to work happy every day," she says.

Overflowing Praise for Fountain

She had me with the invitation. It arrived by mail, rolled up like a scroll with a cork in the center and tied with raffia bow in a rectangular box lined with orange tissue paper and a toss of roasted coffee beans. I was impressed by the creative effort, curious about the meaning of these pieces and parts, and eager to know more. So I instantly RSVP’d yes to the grand opening event for Fountain, a European-inspired café and gastro-lounge (proprietor Iris Wheeler’s descriptive tag for her new venture). After spending a couple of hours at the Moreland Hills spot last Wednesday night, I came to understand that the package I’d received was full of cues and clues revealing what this place is all about, the imaginative thinking behind it, and the extra effort they’re putting into everything.

Fountain — and there are two actual ones, a classic version on the patio and the other, a modernist cascading wall of water — is coffee shop and lunch stop by day, a wine bar serving small and shareable plates and desserts until late (midnight Monday to Wednesday, 1 a.m. Thursday through Saturday). When I first heard about the concept, it made no sense. I couldn’t visualize such a multi-purpose kind of a place. There’s a reason for that: we don’t have anything else like it around here. Now that I’ve had a look and met the vivacious German-born Iris, the idea makes perfect, lovely sense. What ties the various functions together is her vision of a sophisticated gathering place with a morning, noon and night selection of refined, high quality food and drink.

The front of the big room, where you step up to counter to order a pot of French press, a fruit smoothie, a scoop of gelato, or something from the pastry case, is flooded with natural light. But a few steps further in and things get pleasantly dark — damask drapes frame the windows; the walls are a deep warm terra cotta, and the lighting is low. Beyond a long wooden bar, the space opens up and is furnished with comfortable couches and chairs, not restaurant tables, arranged in small groups. Each seating area represents a specific European country — black and white photos of famous landmarks let you know whether you’re sitting in Austria, Spain, Italy or the Benelux (Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg). There are some nooks and private corners perfect for tête-a-têting and even an area to dance when the DJ’s in the house.

Donna Chriszt, an accomplished chef and fine dining veteran, is in the driver’s seat when it comes to the kitchen. She’ll be curing salmon, making her own rillettes and terrines, and beefing up sandwiches and salads with house made spreads, dressings, and condiments. Sweet and savory crepes will be a specialty. I tasted some absolutely wonderful things during the party that are on her menu — patés, shrimp with a chorizo dipping sauce, truffled egg custard, and vegetables in aspic, along with some of the cheeses and charcuterie that will be available on platters and boards.

Attention to detail is in evidence everywhere. The menu books include a magnifying glass and a light. Bartenders have a handheld aerator for filling a glass with red wine. George, the pro who poured for the husband and I, was as smooth and charming (and knowledgeable) as they come. The lists of imported beers and wines are large and eclectic with short but quite helpful descriptions of flavor attached to each selection. I sipped on a splendid dry Riesling-Selbach-Oster Weissburgunder Trocken (2008).

Writing this has me eager to get back, bring friends, taste more and spend some leisurely time soaking up the chic civilized ambiance.