Rockin' It at Rockefellers

Chef Jill Vedaa's food got my husband and I into Rockefellers, while the restaurant's cover-free, live music kept us there for three delightful hours. We sat at a lounge area for a view of Grammy Award-winning trumpeter Kenny Davis, and crooner and keyboard man Harry Bacharach. 
Our pick from the wine list — 2009 Howling Moon Old Vine Zinfandel from Lodi, California, chosen because we visited there and enjoy this varietal — turned out to be quite good, and a steal $20 for the bottle. It was expertly decanted by our server, a sommelier-in-training.

We decided to take a grazing approach to dinner. By the time the check came, my husband and I had shared and sampled our way through a bowl of mussels; a plate of grilled bread with garlic-laden white bean puree and green olive tapenade to spread on it; mini mahi and avocado tacos in soft corn tortillas with pickled jalapeno, tomatilla salsa and citrus crema; and a vegetable tart with pickled ramps and fig jam. All was excellent.

Vedaa came out to chat, and I found out two important things. First, there's a new and very competent manager on board. And second, Vedaa has redone her menu for fall and winter. It just launched yesterday, but I got a sneak peak of what she'll be cooking.

photos by Shelley Pike Polewchak,
MultipleXposure Photography

There isn't a single dish on the new menu that I don't want to try. She's changing up the white wine and lemon mussels we had to a version done with roasted tomatoes and herbs. Bruschetta will be topped with butternut squash and truffle honey — a divine combination — plus shaved Parmesan and pecan dust. I'm especially lusting after the chicken livers with apple ginger chutney, pancetta and arugula. And those are just her starters. She's offering an intriguing salad composed of bibb lettuce, grapefruit, shaved fennel and house-smoked trout in a coriander vinaigrette. The entrees include duck legs, a pork chop with caramelized cabbage, swordfish with edamame puree and cucumber sesame slaw. I was happy to find that Vedaa's signature coconut milk glazed fried calamari with cilantro remains on the menu.

Whether you're a first-timer, someone who had a less than stellar experience here in the past, or a regular, there are plenty of reasons to come have dinner at Rockefellers now.

Rockin' It at Rockefeller's

A new Cleveland Heights restaurant has just opened in what just might be the grandest space this side of the Cuyahoga. It’s called Rockefeller’s, in honor of the building’s name and the property’s original owners and developers. The sprawling second floor room was designed to look like the hall of a medieval castle, and much of that remains: dramatic arches, a huge stone hearth, iron chandeliers, and coffered ceiling with hand painted beams.

Though it was most recently an event center, I used to go there to make deposits and withdrawals. Signs that it was once a bank are still in evidence: the vault door opens into the kitchen and a raised seating area is set off by the half wall and grill work that delineated the tellers’ booths.

Together all these unusual architectural details create a truly unique backdrop for eating, drinking and socializing. Turn left at the top of the stairs and you’re in a spacious dining area. Go right for a lounge outfitted with couches, banquettes, hi-top tables and a bar.

Owner Mike Adams, a lawyer by training, is manager and schmoozer in chief. Jill Vedaa, a talented young chef I’ve been following since I discovered her in 2006 at Saucy Bistro, is in charge of everything related to food and beverages. I am so excited to see what she’ll do now that she has a chance to run the show.

photos courtesy of Cleveland Memory collection

I’ve only had the opportunity to try selections from the lounge side menu, and I liked every bite and sip I sampled. The husband and I shared bruschetta topped with roasted squash, fried sage, and shaved parmesan. It’s a winning combo and taste was great-my only gripe was that the toppings fell off in the trip from plate to mouth- maybe those cubes of squash should be smashed into a spread. Homemade ketchup made an order of sea-salted fries disappear fast. We gave the ribeye carpaccio with blue cheese wasabi cream and a scoop potato salad the same treatment. But best of all was a bowl of mussels and chick peas in tomato fennel broth, served with crostini made from Stone Oven’s olive bread. I’d like to mention the excellent glass of malbec I had and the two unusual microbrews my partner downed, but we were having such a good time that I neglected to note down the requisite info- a serious professional lapse for which I apologize. But let it suffice to say that there are some great choices on the beer and wine lists.

The regular menu promises adventuresome Latin/Asian inspired fare, suitable for grazing or full on feasting; duck confit taquitos with ancho lime cream; shrimp fritters with sriracha tartar; short ribs chimichurri; cumin crusted pork chop; hanger steakand malanga mash.

Adams and Vedaa what Rockefeller’s to be the kind of a place come often and regularly, early and late. I think they’ve got all the right ingredients to pull it off. I know I want to head back there soon and I predict other’s will feel the same after a first visit. No website yet. But here’s what you need to know: 3099 Mayfield Road, Cleveland Heights, 216-321-0477. Tuesday-Saturday dinner only. Tuesday-Thursday dining room 4-10 PM, lounge till 11, Friday and Saturday dinning room till 11 and lounge till 12.