Herschman in the Heights

Professionally, Michael Herschman is a rolling stone and you never know where will show up next. Since his former bosses at Menu6 didn’t seem to appreciate what this talented chef brought to the table, he moved on once again. He’s recently resurfaced as executive chef at Lopez on Lee and I stopped in for a first taste. My friend and I ordered four dishes — the line up is perfect for graze and share meals. Every one was a winner.

We had salmon ceviche-tiradito style which means it's almost like sashimi — with a crispy jalapeno pinon praline and some crema limon; sweet and sour calamari — the Asian influence is a Herschman signature — dusted with chile and cumin; and an eggroll stuffed with chipotle braised chicken that’s now been replaced with a lighter spring roll (he calls them cigars) featuring a vegetarian filling of smoked gouda, charred corn and black beans. The charred Caesar just might be the absolute best version of this ubiquitous salad I’ve ever had: he grills romaine hearts, dots with shavings of manchego, and replaces the croutons with anchovy masa corn fritters.

Lopez is a local dining institution, serving the community for 29 years. I’ve eaten there more times than I can count and can say with some authority and great confidence that Herschman has put together the most interesting, exciting and energized menu this restaurant has ever had. Never really a traditional Mexican or Tex-Mex place, Lopez calls itself a Southwestern food kitchen. He runs with that concept but ups the ante with a distinctly personal style, sense of imagination, antic humor (think chicken and masa-ball soup), and the kind of commitment to quality that means smoking bacon, brisket and tomatoes in-house.

He’s still tweaking the offerings, but it’s already clear that Herschman is reinventing Lopez as an exceptional dining destination. Some new additions that have me in a hurry to get back are beer braised ribs in a spicy mango mop; a bison burger with gaucho sauce and buttermilk onion rings; a Portobello and arugula taco; lobster enchiladas and a squash version made with pepitas; and a wet pulled pork burrito.

Lots of specials planned for Cinco de Mayo tomorrow night. If you’re a fan of margaritas, Tuesdays and Thursdays are always a good time to visit because tequila drinks are half price from 5-9 p.m. The bargain typically attracts a lively crowd. I predict Herschman's food will keep the place hopping every night of the week. And if warm weather and clear skies ever arrive again — and I’m starting to lose hope that will ever happen — the patio is a really nice spot to enjoy it.

Lights, Cameras, Party

We’ll be plugging in the twinkley lights, pulling corks, and welcoming guests on Thursday, February 3. Once again my husband, photographer Barney Taxel, and I are hosting a fundraiser for the Cleveland International Film Festival. Location is the same as always: our fabulous (and prop-filled) studio at 46th and Prospect in downtown Cleveland.

Photo by Mike Lembke ©Taxel Image Group, 2010

The event begins at 7 p.m. Each feast we’ve done features appearances and food by local culinary lights. The lineup this year is Ellis Cooley, executive chef for the highly acclaimed restaurant at the Airport Marriot, Amp 150, Chris Hodgson founder of the wildly popular Dim and Den Sum food truck (and a sit down restaurant under construction on West 25th Street), Michael Herschman, most recently at Menu 6 and currently working on a new (and top secret) restaurant project, and Kimberly McCune, the woman behind Vine and Dine, a personal chef and catering company. They’re preparing an array of signature appetizers and desserts. But their contribution includes more than cooking.

The four have also agreed to stick around and be part of the evening's entertainment. Don’t expect a white-coated chorus line or toqued up karaoke. What we are going to have is a culinary conversation. The chefs will talk about how the come up with ideas for new dishes, describing their personal process for going from concept to plate. It will be set up as an informal interactive panel discussion and members of the audience can jump in with questions. The profession attracts unique, quirky and intensely creative characters — this is a chance to get inside the heads of a few. I predict it will be an interesting place to spend time.

Help Barney and I support the International Film Festival. It is one thing (among so many) that makes living in Cleveland extremely desirable, despite our average snowfall, lack of a hockey team, and the saga of LeGone. (Take that you know-nothings at Forbes — we don’t need or want your pity, because we like our city). But this party maxes out at 75. My sources tell me there are still some tickets left — but not many. Get yours right now.

Great Out of the Gate

I spent a great evening with an old friend last week. We share February birthdays and always celebrate by going out together. We chose Menu6, the brand new restaurant helmed by Michael Herschman in the old Boulevard Blue location on Larchmere, for our annual- and belated- party of two. This would be my second visit- I’d come for the friends and family opening night the previous week and knew I wanted to return. The plan was to meet early for a drink and some apps. But one hour became almost four, nibbles turned into dinner, and the first glass of really good wine led to a second and …But who’s counting? I will however, drop some names: Chateau de Campuget (rosé); Gobelsburg (gruner veltliner); and Obsidian Ridge (cabernet sauvignon).

We ate our way through a spread of small plates: seared day boat scallops with cucumber noodles; the gravlax of the day- blue nose bass cured in sea salt and fennel seed; beef carpaccio with lemon grass infused scallion chili dipping sauce; cress salad with blood orange slices, Humboldt Fog cheese in a mustardy dressing; and Kentucky “foied” chicken (testament to Herschman’s quirky and irrepressible sense of humor) in truffled jus. Then we split an entrée steak sauced with an amazing foie bordelaise that had us begging for spoons. Oh, and there was some chocolate to end the meal- gelato, pot du crème- and madelaines. Hey- we were celebrating remember?

The place looks redone, though the actual changes are small. The walls have been painted a sooty slatey shade of gray that really appeals to me. Maybe it’s because I’ve lived with a photographer for 40 years: the color represents that nuanced and intriguing visual terrain between pure white and darkest black where so much of an image happens. Whatever the explanation, the room just felt good and my friend and I were in no hurry to leave.

Nice space, good food and drink, and excellent conversation- I was happy. The whole experience definitely took the edge off being another year older. The restaurant’s website is not up yet but you can get particulars on the Menu 6 Facebook page.