Prog [gress] on Detroit

True to the spirit behind its name, Prog (as in the post psychedelic British music sub genre) Gastro Lounge is all about pushing boundaries and staking out new ground. In this case it’s food- bar food to be precise- rather than rock-n-roll that’s being elevated and expanded beyond the standards. Instead of choosing to be either a restaurant or a watering hole, owners Steven and Amy Bodek, who opened the place in May, decided to be both.

First impression walking into the dark space is that this is a drinking establishment, a place where locals and regulars come to toss back some cold ones with friends. There’s a long bar, some hi-top tables, and a chalkboard list of specialty beers.

But settle down in a booth on the opposite side of the room and read over the menu and it becomes clear that there’s more going on here. The selection features small and sharing sized plates of creative, eclectic globally inspired fare that just might get foodies punching the address into their GPS. There are meat-on-a stick satays, kebabs, and tacos with unconventional fillings. For those who like burning bites, the grilled jalapeno poppers are off the charts hot. Shrimp bon bons were my favorite- think deep fried macaroon- especially nice with a pour of the house made pineapple mango infused vodka. I also became an instant fan of the corn fritters with a sweet/spicy sauce.

The décor is as fun and funky as the eats, a sort vintage elegance meets tree lawn treasures. The couple applied a lot of elbow grease and vision to restore and remodel the former grill and concert club. Just bringing back the beautiful old tile floor required Herculean effort and much scrubbing. And the work is not done yet- there’s actually a second room with a stage in back that they hope to refurbish soon.

Amy grew up in Parma but left town after high school and only recently returned here, by way of New York and Mexico, with her husband. In addition to their two kids, they brought an entrepreneurial spirit and their own kind of cosmopolitan coolness. Let’s give them a real Cleveland welcome and show support for their venture. All you have to do is pick a night, head on over to Detroit Avenue on the Lakewood side of the border, and enjoy yourself .

Yum Me

Matt Mytro likes to mess around with food, taking ingredients and diners to places they’ve never been before. Sure he can do straight up cooking- his resume includes chef time at Boulevard Blue, Paladar, and currently a temporary gig at Touch. But he’s driven to color outside the lines and take us Clevelanders off the eaten path. That kind of thinking has led to a series of numbered events that combine culinary experimentation with a party vibe.

I went to Yumm 1.2 in June. Using dry ice, liquid nitrogen, agar-agar and other components and techniques from the molecular gastronomy toolbox, Mytro and his minions worked their magic, “poaching” ice cream that burned the tongue if consumed before cooling, turning coconut and jalapenos into bubbles, and dishing up futuristic mojitos that looked like jello shots.

Behind the bar Mike Gulley was also pouring his maple bacon Old Fashioned (breakfast bourbon anyone?), now being served at Dragonfly where he shakes and mixes most nights of the week.

Yumm 1.3 is scheduled for July 12. Like all the other food happenings Mytro’s been cooking up lately its presented by Stove Monkeys- the company he founded with partner Anthony Lynch to market their cool cooking inspired t-shirts. Show up at The Mercury Lounge on West 6th Street in downtown Cleveland between & 11 PM to sample corn on a stick, “jellied” ravioli, tomato basil and mozzarella salad candy, vodka encased in meringue and other surprises. Tickets are $7 in advance, $10 at the door. (Drinks are priced separately at $3 each).

And that’s not all. Mytro’s also taking would-be gastronauts flavor tripping on July 19 at the B-Side Lounge. Guests pop some Miracle Fruit (don’t worry- it’s safe and legal) that temporarily changes taste perceptions.. What is usually experienced as bitter, tart or sour seems sweet, smooth, and pleasant. The berries come from plants indigenous to West Africa and eating under the influence has been all the rage in cities on both coasts for a couple of years. If this kind of night out is your kind of catnip, make reservations online at Stove Monkeys or by calling 216-394-8706. Bon Apetit!

Vegging Out

2010 is the 8th year for Veggie U’s annual Food and Wine Celebration. The gourmet extravaganza is a fundraiser for the nonprofit group’s educational programs that help fourth-graders understand the field-to-fork concept and foster healthy eating habits. It takes place at the Culinary Vegetable Institute in Milan, Ohio, on July 17 from 5-9 p.m.

A sort of “tent city” springs up in a meadow outside the 11,000-square-foot facility, surrounded by fields, carefully manicured gardens and a fringe of woodlands. It’s a beautiful spot to enjoy food prepared by acclaimed chefs and wines from a variety of vintners. Everything’s presented station-style, so you can make your way from one table to the next sampling the entire spread over the course of the evening. Cooking demos, wine seminars and a silent auction are also on the schedule.


I’ve been attending since 2005. There was a chef cook-off back then, and I was a judge that year and for a few more after that. The job had its perks — tasting the fabulous creations of the competitors — and its downside — not eating or drinking much of what was on offer under the “the big top,” so I wouldn’t be too full or too snockered to fulfill my official responsibilities. But the real challenge, especially the first time, was mastering the fear that I’d make dumb choices and, thus, reveal that I had no business being a food writing professional. My fellow judges were always heavy hitters in the field, among them someone from Gourmet, a longtime and recently retired restaurant critic for a major newspaper, the associate editor of Food Arts Magazine, a hot NYC restaurateur … you get the idea. The questions that gnawed at me were these: What if I gave high points to a dish they all thought was sub-par or dubbed something a loser that they deemed number one. Happily this never ever happened. But the worry that it would added an angsty edge to being there for me.

Last year I was relieved of those responsibilities and was able to relax and graze. But my husband, photographer Barney Taxel, was working instead. He’d been asked to document the event, and some of his images appear here. This time around we’re both just guests and plan to do nothing but enjoy ourselves. You can too.


Grand Tasting tickets are $175 per person. Spend more, and you get more including VIP access to the pre-party and an after-party. Buy tickets online or call 419-499-7500.
Be sure to come hungry.

The Opposite of Eating

I use this space to celebrate Cleveland’s food community and all the wonderful things it has to offer. Week after week I write about new restaurants, events where food takes the spotlight, places to find the best of everything edible, our chefs’ accomplishments and all sorts of other culinary-themed stories. So it’s no wonder my Wednesday posts appear under the heading Feast!

But there’s another aspect to the topic, a dark side that most of us rarely consider: hunger. For all of us who eat well and regularly, it’s important to remember that it is a privilege not afforded to all.

A recent national study revealed a 46 percent increase in the number of people receiving emergency food aid from food banks and the agencies they work with since the last survey in 2006. That disturbing uptick translates into more than 37 million people, or one in eight Americans, at risk of not having enough to eat. Many of them live right here in northeast Ohio.

The Cleveland Foodbank, one of 185 food banks around the country that participated in the study, serves residents in six counties. They’ll feed an estimated 223,000 people over the course of this year. That’s a 23 percent increase over past years. Halfway through 2010, the organization is on track to distribute 30 million pounds of food to those who desperately need it.

On June 24, from 7–8 p.m., Mary O’Shea, Advocacy & Public Education Manager for the Cleveland Foodbank, will give a talk entitled “Hunger In America 2010.” It’s part of the Summer Lecture Series at Lucky Penny Creamery in Kent. Cost to attend is $5 per person, and all who buy a ticket receive a $5 Lucky Penny Creamery credit. Visit Abbe Turner’s Creamery again, and you can use it toward the purchase of the goat cheese she makes there. 632 Temple Avenue, Kent, 330-572-7550, abbe@luckypennyfarm.com

Going to Extremes

As eaters, most of us have a split personality. We’re comfortable consuming hamburgers, despite the reality-which we rarely consider- that what we’re putting in our mouths is dead cow- ground up muscle meat, to be exact from the steer’s chest, shoulder, and stomach. The lovely pink slices on a ham sandwich are sourced from the pig’s rear end, and American carnivores are okay with that. But start talking about plates of parts or critters not commonly consumed here, though they are popular fare in other places, and the majority gets seriously squeamish and downright disgusted. It makes no sense and a pair of professional local cooks- brothers Lanny and David Chin who chef together at an eastside restaurant- have decided to offer some behavioral therapy to all who are brave enough to face their crazy contradictions.

On Monday June 21st the guys, aka Food Warriors, are preparing and serving some snacks that will push your eating envelope…and maybe your panic button: hissing cockroaches, superworms, antelope spareribs, wild boar bacon and other unusual edibles are on the menu. Liquid courage will be available for purchase. Food and fun start at &pm at the Velvet Dog in the Warehouse District 7:00 pm. Tickets are $12 in advance, $15 at the door. For presale tickets email kim@ClearCutPromotions.com or go to Paypal, account name Info@Foodwarriors.com. Be sure to include your name and email address. They hope it will be the first in a series of events they’re calling Fearless.

If you’ve watched Andrew Zimmern (Bizarre Foods) or Tony Bourdain (No Reservations) on the Travel Channel and wondered what it would be like to eat they way they do-this is your chance to find out. But Lanny and David want attendees to look beyond the gross out factor and discover how other cultures define good eats. I'll be out of town for this one but I definitely plan to get my fearless on next time around.

Note: this a side project and totally their own idea, and has nothing to do with the place where they work.

Five Reasons to Eat Out

My in-box is fat with all kinds of good news from the restaurant world. Read on, then make plans and reservations.

“The Patios of Larchmere” is a neighborhood promotion that starts today, June 9th, and continues through Sunday, June 13 . The street is packed with interesting places to eat breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner. Menu 6, Felice, Vine and Bean, Flying Cranes, Larchmere Tavern and Acadmey Tavern, all with outdoor seating, are offering menu specials and deals for the next five days plus a chance to enter a raffle and win a $250 Larchmere Shopping Spree. I love this street and its unique mix of businesses and shops. If you don’t know it- this week is the perfect time to visit and explore.

More dining in the sun and under the stars at Chinato. The East 4th Street spot has just added sidewalk seating. For ideas about what to order, check out my review in this month’s Cleveland Magazine.

There’s also an addition to the downtown dining scene: Zinc Bistro, Bar and Bakery just opened. For now, the French inspired café created by Chef Tom Quick, is only serving dinner, but hours and options expand next month.

Chef Michael Annandono and his crew at Michaelangelo’s will be working harder beginning this week. The outstanding Little Italy restaurant has begun doing lunches Tuesday through Friday. When I heard a friend was getting married, I immediately booked a table for mid-day just us girls celebration.

The folks at Moxie, The Restaurant want to know what people think of their new small, medium and large plate menu. (For the record- I think it’s wonderful). You get a reward for sharing- your thoughts that is, not your food. Go there, eat, then send them a message at moxietherestaurant@gmail.com with your feedback- praise, critiques, favorite dishes, and suggestions all welcome. Be sure to include your name, complete mailing address, email. You’ll automatically be entered in a weekly drawing for a $100 Moxie gift card. There’s also a monthly drawing for wine dinner for two. This is one of those can’t lose propositions so you definitely want to take a shot. At the very least you’ll get to enjoy Chef Jonathan Bennett’s great cooking.

Salt Smarts

Salt has been making headlines lately, and not for its positive culinary qualities. Linked to a variety of health problems, it’s taking the place of sugar and fat as the new dietary demon. But this is not a simple black and white issue. We need salt to survive, and chefs know that it is invaluable seasoning that enhances flavor. It is over consumption that’s the real the issue, along with the unconscionable amounts used by manufacturers of processed and packaged foods. Stop eating that stuff and there’s nothing to worry about.

Another important fact to understand is that not all salt is the same. That became clear to me last week at a short salt seminar given by Candace Berthold to our local Les Dames D’Escoffier International chapter. She’s the proprietor of The Olive and the Grape, a gourmet store specializing in oils, vinegars, seasonings and sea salts, with locations in Mentor, Tower City, and the Westside Market. I learned- and tasted- a few things during her fascinating presentation.


It’s the sodium in salt and not the salt itself that is what should give us cause for concern. Common table salt is uber-refined and lacks most of the natural trace elements that are essential for our well-being. Ounce for ounce, she explained, sea salt has less much less sodium and more nutrients. A little goes a long way, and each variety has a distinctive character.

Like wine, salt reflects both the place it comes from (terroir) and the way its harvested and handled.


We sampled salts from Portugal, Italy, France, Greece, and Hawaii; salts flavored with herbs, espresso, merlot, and smoke; and salts colored snowy white, black, pink, and green. Coarsely ground or flaked, they’re meant to be spooned, crumbled and sprinkled never shaken.



I was surprised by how many kinds are available- Berthold stocks 54 at last count- and the differences between them. Until now I’ve been satisfied with my box of Morton’s Kosher, but no longer. I’m ready to become a student of salt, stocking my cupboard with a selection so I can experiment. It promises to be a long, and delicious, study.

Chefs on Exhibit

There’s nothing new about our local chefs showing up to help other organizations. They are the backbone of benefits, generous contributors to every kind of charity gig, and the reason that many are willing to purchase tickets and attend these events. But it’s the food rather than the inspired, conceptual thinking behind it that usually gets all the attention. But it was quite a different story last Saturday night in the galleries at the Palate/Palette fundraiser for MOCA Cleveland.

The artistry of five chefs was the centerpiece of the evening rather than the backdrop. Each had chosen one of the five senses to express and fashioned a unique presentation environment for their dishes. Instead of just grazing mindlessly, we encountered intentionally designed sensory worlds that awakened and heightened perceptions, challenged assumptions, and engaged the mind in the act of eating. All the chefs seemed thrilled with the opportunity and clearly had fun with it. “Creating experiences and stimulating the senses is what we do,” Brandt Evans told me. “It’s wonderful to see that being celebrated.”

I was totally taken with the idea and wowed by the execution. Here’s a brief chef by chef recap of their food-meets-art offerings.

Brandt Evans, Blue Canyon, Sight:
Knowing that we eat with our eyes first, Evans hung big food photos behind his table, cuing up anticipation by adding a word to each image: luminosity; lush: stimulating. Big glass vessels willed with asparagus, limes, and basil decorated he staging area. So we were primed and ready for his scallop ceviche with lime and ginger. There was a kind of visual trick to it- the burst of flavor, full of exciting unexpected elements, was so much more than the sum of what could be seen.

Karen Small, The Flying Fig, Smell:
We entered a small windowless dimly lit room with seating for 20, 25 people at tables arranged in a squared-off u-shape. Each place was set with two small cups: in one a ricotta dumpling with onions, chives, and scallions; in the other slivers of grass fed beef short ribs and mushrooms. As we watched, steaming broth was poured on top- smoked pork for the meat, something gingery for the dumpling. Small urges us to inhale deeply before we open our mouth or pick up a spoon. It is a revelation- so much information coming in through the nose.

Jonathon Sawyer, The Greenhouse Tavern, Touch:
We filed in eight at a time, sat down, removed our shoes, and stepped up to the bar, as instructed, positioning ourselves on a marble square. Heat flowed up through the soles of our feet as Sawyer passed us a bowl of warm miso based broth. We cupped it in our hands and drank. Then we moved to the other side and stood on icy cold stones to sip chilled ramp vichyssoise. For both, Sawyer told us to close our eyes. It was like kissing- blocking out visual impressions intensified what the body felt.

Sergio Abramof, Sergio’s and Sarava, Sound:
He’s got a passion for percussion, so Abramof brought some drumming pals in to create beats to back up his Brazilian shrimp and rice. But instead of their usual selection of instruments, these pros pounded out rhythms using kitchen equipment: whisks, spoons, pots, strainers, skillets. It was impossible to hold still. Sergio was swaying and sautéing, people waiting to snag a plate looked like an impromptu conga line. The dish had a mouth music of its own- together they made a dance party.

Doug Katz, fire food and drink, Taste:
His chocolate truffles were the good bye gift. Four were packed in a clear box divided into sections with a paper insert featuring a different photo to accompany the list of primary ingredients and character descriptions for each bite. It was fun, clever, inventive. Like what the best chefs do. The candies were equally original- bittersweet chocolate peppercorn; white chocolate tarragon; milk chocolate rhubarb; and my personal favorite unsweetened chocolate laced with sea salt.

The event looked like a financial success. There was a nice sized crowd that paid $250 per ticket and big bucks were bid for original artwork during the live auction. But staying true to its mission of exploring contemporary culture, looking beyond the conventional and acceptable, and showcasing originality, MOCA is to be commended for also using their fundraiser as a vehicle for raising awareness of the exceptional talent in our culinary community.

Hiking for Winers

Forget mowing the lawn or running errands this Saturday morning. Instead rise, shine, hike and drink. Sounds like my kind of good time. The unlikely pairing of activities is organized by The Ohio Wine Producers Association and the Cleveland Museum of Natural History. The two organizations are sponsoring a series of guided explorations of nature preserves and forests not open to the general public followed by visits to nearby wineries.

Meet up at 10 AM for the May 22 outing at the North Kingsville Sand Barrens, about a half mile from Lake Erie in Ashtabula County. The protected area is what’s known as a fossil beach, and I hear that this time of year its rolling savannah and surrounding swamp forest are alive with migratory birds and blooming wildflowers, including purple lupine.

After two hours of walking, everyone will caravan to MarkkoVineyard for lunch, a talk by winemaker Arnie Esterer, and a sampling of the Chardonnay, Riesling, and Cabernet Sauvignon that he produces.

Cost is $35 per person, and you must be registered to participate. Sign up here or call 216-231-1177. Once you're on the list, you'll get directions and details. Space is limited. If you like the concept but get shut out or are unable to clear your calendar for this weekend, three more trips planned for July, September and October.

Winemaker Arnie Esterer

Rockin' Cooks

Super successful chefs are often described as rock stars these days. But a surprising number have admitted- in public and privately to me- that they have musician alter egos, or confessed that next time around they’d choose to come back as real rock-n-rollers. Some limit their licks to air guitars or drumming out rhythms on tabletops, but others actually get out there and play.

You can catch a few of them serving up their music June 13 for Chef Jam 2010 at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum. Bands made up of local chefs and restaurant staff from Melange, Happy Dog, and Greenhouse Tavern will take the stage, and Crop's Cream of the Crop will do a star turn with Todd Rundgren. (Rumor has it that they are actually rehearsing for this gig in an attempt to nail down a few key Todd tunes).

A Cleveland Food Rocks event and fundraiser, this is not your typical benefit graze. Each restaurant- 26 have signed on to date- is drawing culinary inspiration from a particular band, performer, or musical genre. Karen Small says that The Flying Fig is going with Delta Blues- think Robert Johnson, John Lee Hooker, and Muddy Waters. So she and her crew will do Southern country cooking. Momocho’s Eric Williams is going all literal, making braised wild boar tacos with pickled jalapeno mustard in homage to Satan Gave Me a Taco. No doubt his will be much better than the ones in Beck’s song! Steve Schimoler of Crop is Grateful for the chance to let his inner Deadhead out. He might do Jerry's Jubilee, but isn't ready to commit. "Since they were the quintessential jam band," he says, "we're gonna improvise."

But that’s not all. For this gig, the chefs are also playing dress-up. They’re supposed to look like the musicians they’re celebrating. Initially it struck me as a goofy bordering on lame idea. Then I started to consider the possibilities.

Brandt Evans of Blue Canyon is drawing his cues from the Jamaican reggae group Burning Spear (so don’t be surprised if he’s spooning goat curry onto your plate). The thought of see the big man sporting dreadlocks like the band's lead singer Winston Rodney is too delicious.

Michael Herschman of Menu 6 told me he’s going on a psychedelic trip, doing wild mushroom rolls with scallion chili dipping sauce and 'strawberry fields forever'-strawberry gelle, melon mint puree & marcona almond praline mascarpone. So I expect him to show up in bell bottoms, tie-dye, and love beads.

Questions abound. Will Jonathan Bennett don a shaggy haired wig and set aside his usual clean white jacket for something a bit more flowery? I think there’s a chance since the Moxie chef has decided to celebrate Pink Floyd with some Dark Side of the Moon Pies.

Tickets went on sale to the public Monday. $50 lets you sample all the food, wine and beer, plus explore the Museum. Click here to buy yours and see the list of participating restaurants. Proceeds go to education programs at the Rock Hall and towards a Culinary Arts scholarship for a Tri-C student. The price is a bargain, especially considering that there’s a chance to catch the usually dapper Zack Bruell in full rocker drag.

Stories of People and Produce

Maury Feren is not your typical 94 year old. He’s as engaged, busy, and productive as when I first met him. That was 1993 and I interviewed him for a story that appeared in the Plain Dealer Sunday Magazine (remember when the PD had a real Sunday mag?). I admired his energy then, and I am even more in awe of it now. The guy’s had multiple careers and been successful at all of them. He spent thirty years as a wholesale produce merchant, started and ran a fruit basket company, published a guide to fruits and vegetables, and appeared regularly on radio and TV, eventually hosting his own shows. Not content to call it a day, Feren, nicknamed Cleveland’s Produce King, just self-published his autobiography.

Called Wheeling and Dealing in My World, (Windjammer Adventure Publishing, $15.95) it is the classic American story of a self-made man and a true Cleveland tale. He talks about neighborhood life as the child of immigrant parents in the early years of the 20th century, the Depression, and his service in World War II. It’s sure to evoke memories for others who grew up here around the same time and those who like him went off to fight in Europe. But the heart of the book is the collection of behind the scene stories from the produce business and the characters that populated the Northeast Ohio Food Terminal where he worked. It was a tough world filled with rough men willing to sweat- and fight- for every dollar. The last section of the book reprises his anise to watercress primer with tips on selecting, storing, and using fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs.

The book is intensely personal and idiosyncratic; a sort of extended conversation with the man and the voice is pure Feren. What he’s written is a memory collection, a love note to his wife, and a long thanks to mentors, friends, and all who helped him along the way. The author will be signing copies of his book this Sunday, May 9 at Miles Farmer’s Market from noon to 4 PM, and on Tuesday, May 11, at Joseph-Beth Booksellers, at 7 PM.

New York Cleveland Connection

I was in New York recently, and the highlight of my visit was dinner at Locanda Verde, an Italian-inspired taverna in TriBeCa. I’d been promising myself a visit, ever since the restaurant opened last spring. That’s because I’ve been following the career of chef and owner Andrew Carmellini since I learned he is from Cleveland. I like to track culinary success stories with a local link. I’d read about the great things he did at A Voce, interviewed him for The Fabulous Food Show two years ago (read it here), and given his cookbook, Urban Italian a rave review. So I was eager for a chance to taste what he was cooking now.

I was not disappointed. The meal was pure pleasure in every way. I was especially taken with the sheep’s milk ricotta starter. It was sprinkled with sea salt and herbs and splashed with olive oil. Spread thickly on pieces of toasted bread, it was just heaven - simple, straightforward and incredibly delicious. Could say the same about lamb meatball sliders, a plate of grilled sardines, gigantone - a chunky pasta shape I’d never had before - in what he calls Sunday night ragu, and a duck and sausage entree.

Carmellini’s kitchen is turning out unpretentious and deeply satisfying rustic dishes rooted in regional styles and the family fare traditionally made and served at home. This is food that’s easy to love, hearty but not heavy, full of flavor but without any of the self-referential flamboyance that so many chefs indulge in. I’m not the only one that thinks so. The May issue of Food and Wine gives the restaurant a nod on their list of 100 Best New Food and Drink Experiences. Our own Chef Paul Minnillo, a man who knows more than most about good food in general and Italian cooking in particular, told me he was there shortly after it opened and loved what Carmellini was doing. In fact he’s planning to go back soon.

I’m not surprised. Locanda Verde has more than just the menu going for it. It’s informal and reasonably priced with a really appealing café kind of ambiance. The big room is divided into discreet sections and cozy niches so even when it’s filled with bodies and conversational buzz, as it was at 10:30 on a Friday night when I was there, it doesn’t feel too crowded or loud. Many tables offer a view of the open kitchen and wood-burning oven.

Put the place on your NYC to-do list. It’s popular, so reservations are a must. If you’re also in need of somewhere to lay your head, the restaurant is connected to the not so affordable but very luxe and lovely Greenwich Hotel. Makes it so convenient to return to Locanda Verde for breakfast or brunch.

A Grape Story

It was 11 AM and I’d already been drinking for half an hour. Yes, that IS rather early, and no, I don’t have an alcohol problem. I was sipping chardonnay and cabernet professionally, a participant in a seminar led by Georg Riedel. His family company, Riedel Glas Austria, makes wine glasses, but these are not conventional stemware. These “vessels," as he calls them are varietal specific: one shape and size for Pinot Noir, something quite different for Zinfandel. Glasses, he tells the audience, are tools for transforming the perception of what’s in them. His goal was to demonstrate that wines drank from the appropriate glass taste better.

I started out a skeptic and finished a true believer. It was an absolutely mind blowing experience – and not because I was intoxicated. This was physics at work and the intentional engineering of the interaction between molecules and senses.

We sniffed then sampled a dry Ohio Riesling made by Debonné Vineyards from a plastic cup. It was okay, nothing special. Then we pour it into Riedel’s Riesling glass and try it again. I would not have believed this was the same wine if I hadn’t transferred it from one to the other myself. A heady aroma of white peaches, apricots and a hint of honeysuckle was pronounced. The flavor was beautiful- stone fruits, acidity balanced by minerality Then we poured it into a quality generic glass (also made by Riedel). The wine went a bit flat, losing much of its intensity on the nose and the palate.

We repeated the experiment with other wines and the results were always the same. The Riedel glasses helped the wine express itself and enhanced my ability to distinguish all the nuances of taste and aroma that form its distinctive character. I can’t afford to go out and buy multiple sets but I’m thinking that I’d like to slowly acquire a few for our favored varietals. And I definitely have a new respect for restaurants and winery tasting rooms that use them.

The session was part of a conference sponsored by The Ohio Wine Producers Association that was held last week in Geneva (as in nearby “on-the-Lake”, not Switzerland.). Representatives from twenty wine producing states between the East Coast and the Rockies showed up to swap ideas and show off their products. I tried lots of red and whites from many lesser known American wine producing regions and two varietals new to me - Traminette from Indiana, and Missouri Norton. I also learned about some destination wine trails around Ohio and in New York, Maryland and Iowa, and met many passionate promoters and vintners.

I also picked up information about a local event scheduled for Saturday, April 24th. Around the World in the Grand River Valley Wine Region is a progressive, drive-yourself, eat and drink fundraiser for area foodbanks. Five wineries within 10 minutes of each other, and just a short drive from Cleveland, will be offering their European style wines paired with hearty appetizers. Sounds like a delightful way to while away a few Saturday afternoon hours.

Grand River Cellars, Madison

Say Cheese

I’ve been eating cheese all my life but last week I had a chance to learn how to taste it and talk about the experience. My host and teacher was Jean Mackenzie. She’s a goat cheese maker and she’d invited me, along with some other people, to her farm in Hiram to giver her feedback about her chevre.

The group of volunteer samplers included Karen Small, chef/owner of The Flying Fig in Ohio City; Shannon Welsh, the Cheese, Wine and Beer Merchandiser for Heinen’s; Geoff Stout of Euro-USA, a food importing and distributing company; Matthew Smith, chef/owner of Umami in Chagrin Falls, and two of Jean’s friends.

Mackenzie Creamery, her little artisan company, has gone from start-up to super successful in just three years. The fresh goat milk cheeses she produces have won prizes and are a favorite of local chefs and consumers. Jean had brought us together to act as an advisory board as she develops new flavors and varieties.

Telling her whether we liked or didn’t like what we tasted was important but it wasn’t enough. There’s a very precise language to describe the sensory properties of cheese, just as there is for wine. Jean had gotten some training in the method from the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese and she was our guide as we educated our palates and built a vocabulary for talking about our perceptions.

We did some blind tests, trying her cheese side by side with similar products from other sources, and were the first to try three new creations. We graded them on a numbered scale from strong to weak for sourness, bitterness, saltiness, and sweetness. We rated the texture and evaluated the overall appeal. Precision was essential. I found it surprisingly difficult to identify what was actually happening on my tongue, and so did everyone else at the table. But the intensity of the effort made for a really interesting and pleasurable couple of hours.

Jean collected the evaluation sheets she had us fill out and took notes during the lively discussions that followed each formal tasting. I can’t reveal what flavor she’ll soon be adding to her line, but I can say with some certainty that, based on what I had last Wednesday afternoon, it will be delicious.

Our group will meet again in the fall. That’s when Jean’s first batch of mold ripened goat milk cheeses will come out of the aging room that’s currently near completion. My mouth is already watering in anticipation.

Play Ball

Beer and baseball seem made for one another. An Indians pre-opening day party April 11th from 2-11 p.m. at the Greenhouse Tavern celebrates both with a limited edition ale created by Buckeye Brewing Company in collaboration with restaurant owner and chef Jonathon Sawyer specially for the occaision.

The label on the bottles is special too and I‘m proud to take some of the credit for that. Here’s why.

In January, Sawyer posted a picture on Facebook of a possible label for Saison de Maison, another joint project with his Lakewood brewing pals. He asked for comments on the image which featured an unclothed and buxom lass in all her busty glory. So I weighed in with this opinion: “Ditch the tits. So old, so done. How 'bout a nice tasteful full frontal of a guy?” Another person (a woman of course- the guys were, well- more universally uncritical and enthusiastic) added: “I'm with Laura. Jonathan, why don't you be the model? I'd BOOK back to Cleveland to have that beer.”

He didn’t respond online or any other way. I thought maybe my remark- half serious, half jokoing- had annoyed or offended him. And then I forgot about the whole thing. Imagine my surprise when Sawyer called me at the end of last week to tell me about the cool label for the latest Buckeye/Greenhouse suds. Turns out that he took my suggestion to heart.

The label you see here is the work of Kyle Roth of Epstein Design Partners. There was a rumor that Sawyer’s wife Amelia was prototype for the lovely lady on the Saison bottle. So I just had to ask Sawyer if he was the inspiration for the batter with the strategically placed foot. “Absolutely not,” he assured me. “It’s one of our bartenders.”

Whoever stepped up to the plate for this, did his part for gender equity. And my response is Ladies- this one’s for you!

Belly Up to the Bar

The evening featured creative cocktails and specialty beers but seating was at linen draped tables not barstools. The event was last week’s “Bar” Dinner at Melange in Beachwood. Co-executive chefs Adam Bostwick and Matt Creighton decided to riff on the wine-centric meals hosted by so many fine dining spots, by pairing spirits and brews with playful versions of standard pub and tavern fare. I was invited by the restaurant’s owner Andy Zelankofske, who wanted me to get acquainted with what his chefs can do. And I have to say that by the time I was done eating my way through the six course tasting menu I was impressed. These guys brought skill and inventiveness to the food, and infused the proceedings with an appealing sense of humor. They’ve been cooking under the radar, and I’d say it’s definitely time for them to get some well-deserved attention.

Here’s my course by course account of the experience.
1) Shot and a Beer: Thyme infused whiskey sour for sipping. A rich, creamy, lick the bowl good cheese soup for slurping made with Dead Guy Ale, Gouda, and caramelized onions. As soon as I was done I wanted more.

2) White Mary and Potato BLT: The seasonings for these pale Bloody Mary’s, made with Chopin Vodka and clear tomato water, were frozen Popsicle style. Stick was good for stirring. A slice of herb roasted potato was topped with some pork belly, bacon mayo, oven dried tomato and micro chives. Mmmmm.

3) Fish-n-Chops: Seared scallop crusted with shredded phyllo, plus shoestring pickle fries, dill dust, and malt vinegar “caviar” bubbles that burst in the mouth. It was a terrific combination set off by a sour German style ale made by Bruery, a California craft brewer.

4) Burger and a Beer: Short rib pavé made by braising meat, pulling it off the bone and pressing it into a cube and searing. It was served in room temperature tomato broth- that’s the “ketchup” element, with a bit of cheddar, a dab of mustard sauce and cornichon salsa (the stand in for pickle slices). Not much more than a bite like all the dishes so far, this one disappeared fast. I was slower downing the accompanying Chimay Blue Label.

5) Wings and Champagne: This was fun food. Flutes filled with Riondo pink prosecco and a plate of three chicken wings confited to crispy perfection in their own fat and coated with an effervescent hot sauce that added a seltzer-like buzz to the roasted chile burn, along with a spoonful of shaved celery salad spiked with bleu cheese powder. I maxed out and couldn’t eat the last piece. I wish I had it here right now.

6) Coffee and Dessert: They revved up the high test mocha java with espresso syrup, Sambuca, and Frangelica. A basket was brimming over with hazelnut biscotti, zucchini madelines, donut holes with lime curd filling, and planks of dangerously delicious peanut bacon brittle- full as I was I found it impossible to stop eating the stuff.

Bostwick and Creighton came out to describe every dish. I enjoyed putting faces with names and getting a sense of what these chefs are all about. You can have a chance to do that too. At the start of the evening Zelankofske had told me that if the event was a success, he’d plan another one. Apparently the consensus was two thumbs up because he just announced that Melange will be doing these "Not another wine dinners" every other month. Tentative date for the next reservation only bar dinner is May 18. Check the website for details.

Be Bizarre

I just read an article about culinary adventurers who search their city’s restaurants for the weirdest, wildest, most off-putting fare imaginable: seafood that’s still wriggling when it goes in the mouth, pig brains, bugs and duck embryos. In New York City they’ve formed a club, calling themselves Gastronauts, and their quest for unlikely foods takes them way beyond the organ meats and animal parts that scare off most ordinary diners.

I have no doubt that Cleveland chefs would have a hard time finding an audience for foods that exist at the extreme edges of edibility. But some are determined to get us to push our boundaries at least a little.

Brian Okin is one of them. At Verve, his restaurant on Carnegie Avenue, the reigning idea is to reinvent American comfort food, updating it with contemporary style and international flavors. He knows that our grandmothers used every anatomical bit a critter offered from gizzards to feet and it inspires him. I recently had dinner there and sampled two dishes rooted in this tradition.

For his cleverly named “Pigs in a Blanket” appetizer Okin makes fried croquettes from slow cooked trotter meat pulled from the bony foot and ankle that he coats in panko breading. The meat was moist but not fatty like the pork belly that’s showing up on menus everywhere, and some mostarda and pecorina chief set it off nicely. In “Liver and Onions” he plays with this old fashioned workingman’s staple by pairing slices of veal liver, which had the rich butteryness of fois, with scallions and rosemary mustard vinaigrette. I liked them both very much.

Next time I go, I’m planning on trying the Offal and Eggs: veal sweetbreads with a mushroom and sweet potato frittata. Or if it’s lunchtime I’ll go with the Offal burger, which stacks those same sweetbreads on a bun with speck, talleggio, and a smear of cinnamon aioli.

None of these would get those NYC Gastronauts excited — they hunger for much stranger stuff. But for a dining public that favors steaks and chops, a meal at Verve can be a deliciously dangerous walk on the wild side.

Movie Munchies

Every year I scan the Cleveland International Film Festival program book to see what’s cooking. Literally. Because there are usually at least a few food focused and culinary- themed movies plus others in which eating, cooking, or serving play a major or supporting role in the story. I star each one on my personal schedule- a long, complicated and aspirational list covering a broad swathe of the world and a wide range on interests that is subject to change- and try to see them all. The effort shapes the days and nights from March 18-March 28. I may not be able to get to each and every one- life, work, and pure visual exhaustion sometimes interfere- but I always intend to. And for me the hope that runs through the ten day stretch is half the fun.

I’ve carefully combed through the 100 plus pages of Films A-Z and found a veritable feast of thought provoking things to see.

-Bananas
a documentary from a Swedish director and producer, that explores the legal battle over Dole Food Company’s use of a harmful pesticide in Nicaragua. Sponsored by fire food and drink
March 27, 2:15 PM, March 28, 4:30 PM

-Colony
a partnership between two filmmakers one American the other Irish, the documentary is a look at the honeybee crisis and their importance to our food supply. Fest folks describe it as visually stunning
March 25, 9:35 PM, March 28, 7:20 PM

-Cooking History
a documentary comedy about war and food. Impossible to imagine and therefore essential to watch .
March 23, 7:15 PM, March 25, 2:25 PM

-Ingredients
a cinematic essay about the rise of the local food movement and the meaning of a sustainable food systems with an on screen appearance from Alice Waters
March 19, 4:50 PM, March 20, 2 PM followed by a discussion, March 21 11:45 AM

-Mid-August Lunch
an Italian movie so no matter what else it is about, the storyline, as the name suggests, really does include shopping, cooking, family gatherings around the table, and much drinking of wine
March 27, 7:30 PM, March 28, 12:10 PM

-What’s on Your Plate?
follows two kids as they learn where their food comes from so its no wonder the North Union Farmers Market is among of the sponsors
Match 27, 11:45 AM, March 28, 2 PM

Foodish
-A Matter of Size
one of those whoda thunk subjects- an overweight Israeli, whose mother complains about her fat sonbut fixes him food nonetheless, bands together with others of his size to form the country’s first sumo team that gets wrestling lessons from the owner of a sushi restaurant . how can i not see this?
March 20, 7:45 PM, March 21, 4:45 PM

-Villon’s Wife
based on a group of short stories. a Japanese woman takes a job at a pub to repay her n’er-do-well husband’s debt, thrives in this new life, and becomes empowered to change her relationship to him
March 23, 11:40 AM, March 25, 6:45 PM

TV TIME OUT

-Shifting from big screen fare to television, mark your calendars for Monday, March 22. Momocho will be featured on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives at 10pm on the Food Network. The viewing party is at Eric Williams' other place The Happy Dog on West 58th and Detroit. Fun begins at 8pm