Uptown's Asian Invasion

Photo courtesy of Barney Taxel

Ninja City Kitchen and Bar opened last month in University Circle. This Asian street food and fast food concept from Bac Nguyen, the owner of Bac, a bistro in Tremont, is a fun spot as long as you know a few things in advance. Ninja City a place for eating, not dining. Water is served in plastic cups and some dishes arrive in paper-lined baskets. The vibe skews toward youth in decor and style, which makes sense given the location on the fringes of the CWRU campus.

Photo courtesy of Barney Taxel 

The operation strikes me as a cross between two other local creations. To order, guests fill out a form a la Happy Dog (soon to be opening a second outpost in the former Euclid Tavern down the street), with options to customize your own plates and combos. The small menu itself is reminiscent of items available at Noodlecat downtown — reinvented versions of ramen, gyoza, edamame, steam buns and chicken wings. I enjoyed everything I tried. The BBQ pork buns were my favorite — light, airy rounds of dough to wrap around bits of roasted meat accompanied by pickled carrot and radish, a toss of scallions and cilantro, and topped with chili aioli. The cold spring roll noodle bowl didn't stray far from tradition but it was nicely done with a tasty sweet garlic vinaigrette. The Banh Mi sandwich was big, mostly because of thick slices of crusty bread, but the filling of sliced pork, ham,  and veggies held its own. The portions were generous and the prices reasonable. I noticed that dishes were flagged for being gluten free, vegetarian or available without animal protein.

Photo courtesy of Barney Taxel

There was something a bit too postmodern about the decor for my taste, a mix and match pastiche that strives a bit too hard to be hip. The comic book cute wall art is inspired by graphic novels. The chain link fence that fronts the mirror — for no obvious reason — metal ceiling fans, utilitarian tables and chairs and exposed ductwork have an urban industrial feel. But then there's weathered barn wood paneling opposite the bar and in parts of the upper level. I do like the fact that the front window is actually a garage door that can be raised in good weather, with access to a small patio on the sidewalk.
 
I don't think I'd make a special trip just for a meal here, but if I was hungry and in the neighborhood, Ninja City would definitely be on my list of possibilities.

First Look: Trentina

The Vibe: Bright white walls and a dark navy ceiling, mirrored tabletops, white leather chairs and gold accents make this tiny restaurant from chef Jonathon Sawyer sparkle. It feels clean and modern, grounded by trendy touches like vintage foiled wallpaper. We especially loved the flapper-era walls in the restaurant's high-tech unisex bathrooms (think heated seats, bidets and derriere dryers). Dress to impress: servers don black bow-ties, though management still mixes dress jeans with blazers and ties.

How Ready Are They: We spent four hours over our 15-course dinner, and there are two variations on each course to give diners "complementary experiences," according to Sawyer.

The first few courses flew a little too fast, with too-frequent check-ins from our servers leaving us feeling a little harried. After about the fourth course, though, the staff seemed to settle into a more natural rhythm. The dishes were immaculate, and the chef made regular visits to the table to explain dishes, at one point bearing a pair of gold scissors to snip open the parchment enveloping the Sable Fish al Cartoccio.

We Tried It: By unanimous agreement, our favorite taste of the evening was the sixth course, the Pasta alla Chitarra. My dish featured three super-long, thick, house-made noodles with a creamy, slightly citrusy sauce, foraged chicken of the woods mushrooms and shaved West Coast abalone.



The complementary dish had a similar sauce, though the noodles were diced, acini di pepe style, and topped with a beautifully runny Ohio farm egg. The experience was topped by a garnish of a burning ember, "for aromatics," according to the chef. Perfection.



What We'd Like To See: Dinner at Trentina is an experience unlike any currently available in Ohio. This is not a dinner-and-a-movie night out but an event unto itself. Still, the space is so inviting that we can't wait until a few a la carte items are added to the patio offerings.

If You Go: Trentina opens July 8. Tickets for the tasting menu are $100. 1903 Ford Drive, Cleveland, 216-421-2900, restauranttrentina.com

Mo' Mojo to radiate positivity at Hessler Street Fair

The Hessler Street Fair kicks off in University Circle this Saturday and Sunday. The fair, founded in 1969, has attracted body artists, drum circlers and positive vibes since its revival in 1995. Nineteen bands are expected to play this year, including the zydeco-cajun-blues outfit Mo’ Mojo. Frontwoman Jen Maurer spoke to us about how, on Sunday at 6:30, the band will jam in front of the sea of long hair and dresses for the first time in a few years. “I think we’re going to be the full eight band,” she says. “Eight members and quite a variety of instruments with fiddle and horns and rubboard and triangle and accordions and whatnot.”

CM: How did you guys come together?

JM: Well the band’s been together since ’95 in one formation or another, and everybody’s come differently. One of the guitar players, his dad was in the band, and now he’s in the band. And another guy caught my eye because he was dancing at one of our shows with my mother, and I thought that was really sweet so he ended up in the band. And another girl—her husband was in the band, and when they got divorced she stayed with the band when he left the band.

CM: You played the Hessler Street Fair before. What was that experience like?

JM: Oh, it was fun. Hessler’s a party. No doubt about it. Crazy party. It’s awesome.

CM: Do you know Carlos Jones? [Jones and his P.L.U.S. Band headline Sunday night at 7:30.]

JM: Yeah. I subbed in his band on bass. His guitar player, Dan, has been a sub for us before. Now we actually share a drummer. If there’s one frontman in all of Cleveland I think that I admire the most, it’s probably Carlos.

CM: So you released an album in 2010 and another one in 2012?

JM: We actually have one—I would say it’s about 70 percent done—that we’re hoping to do sometime this summer. Possibly we’re going to call it We All Got The Same. We like to have positive and fun songs, and so “We All Got The Same” kind of encapsulates the same sort of spirit as “Together In Love We Drown,” which is our second album—just that “we’re all connected” kind of thing.

Paris Connection

Owner and French-trained pastry chef Britt-Marie Culey has been wowing us with her sweet delights crafted from layers of genoise, almond paste, vanilla cream, pâte sucrée and chocolate ganache since she and her husband Shane moved to Cleveland in 2008. Her dessert creations were only available at the Shaker Square Farmers' Market, select area restaurants and by special order. But that is about to change.

Photo Courtesy of Stephen Cutri 

Coquette Patisserie, a pastry shop and cocktail lounge located on Euclid Avenue across from The Art Institute, is set to open next week, perhaps even as soon as this Saturday. Check the bakery's Facebook page for the most up-to-the-minute info on when they're ready for company.

I got a preview of this unique shop at an event celebrating the storefront's debut. The big-windowed space is charming — a quirky combination of salvage chic, artistic flair and a classy crystal chandelier. There's a small bar, communal table and two-tops opposite glass cases where Culey's cakes and tarts will be on display. The menu also includes some savory bites: chicken liver mousse eclairs; egg salad on a house made brioche with shrimp or cured salmon and herbed cream cheese; and crepes, oysters, and cheese and charcuterie plates. The shop ups its sophistication factor with craft beers on tap; bottles of red, white and sparkling wines; and an array of spirits, among them cognac, absinthe and Armagnac. Just the thought of sipping champagne while forking up bites of opera cake gives me a pleasurable little rush.

Photo courtesy of Stephen Cutri

At that pre-opening party, I asked Culey if she was excited. "That's not quite the word I'd use," she replied. "We've waited a long time for this. We spent five years looking for just the right place. And we've been working so hard to get it ready. It's almost surreal now that it's really happening.  What I feel is exhausted. And happy, really happy." I took a nibble of an orange truffle macaron and thought, me too! Good luck to her, and good news for us.

An Uptown Accent

I challenge anyone to walk into the Accent, Scott and Brenda Kim's new restaurant in University Circle, and not give a little gasp of amazement, especially after dark. The space is dramatic, ultra contemporary, and unique. The red and black color scheme is sophisticated and intense. Lighting has been used as a design element and after the sun sets the place simply glows. The cumulative effect simply wows the eyes and announce that this is something special.

photo by Barney Taxel

The food I tasted last week at a private pre-opening event confirmed that impression. Building on the possibilities offered by two innovative pieces of high-heat cooking equipment-a Robata grill and a Josper oven (I described both in a previous post), Kim and executive chef Michael Lyons have crafted a menu of exciting dishes. For me,a big part of the excitement lies in their concept of making dishes that are not only delicious but also healthy. Drawing inspiration from the many and varied cuisines of the Asian continent, they're employing cooking techniques that require less fat and are using whole grains in place of white rice and other good-for-you ingredients. I sampled mung bean pancakes, turkey "ribs" and slaw, edamame hummus with vegetable chips, kimchee flatbread, and three versions of donburi (rice bowl): beef, chicken and sashimi (raw fish). There isn't anything I wouldn't eat again with great pleasure, and the miso soup was some of the best I've had ever and anywhere. Vegetarians and vegans will definitely have options here.

photo by Barney Taxel

But don't imagine it will be any sort of sacrifice to dine here. The menu offers a wonderful selection: steaks, short ribs, scallops, roasted potatoes and rich desserts. I had the house version of smores and have no doubt I'll be back for some more.

Big windows face a pedestrian friendly plaza. There are plans for a patio equipped with a fireplace. It  promises to be a wonderful gathering place, inside and outside the restaurant, in all seasons. Other restaurants are planned for this urban hub. Accent, opening to the public Oct. 29, is the first, and it will launch Uptown as a true culinary district, much like East 4th Street. Both projects reflect the vision of the Maron family and their development company MRN Ltd. The patriarch Rick and his wife Judy were also at the Accent event, and when were introduced, I  felt compelled to thank him for the way he's investing in and helping to transform this city.

New MOCA readies for opening

The Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) Cleveland is finally set to open its new building in the Uptown neighborhood of University Circle, starting with a few events this weekend and the first official admission of the public this coming Monday.

Beginning with the HEX party on the evening of Saturday, Oct. 6 — which is being billed as a spellbinding, three-tiered VIP event — MOCA members will then be invited to check out the new digs from noon to 5 p.m. on Sunday, Oct. 7. The opening ceremonies then culminate with Free Public Day on Monday, Oct. 8, where admission will be free to all visitors from 1-6 p.m.

The museum looked very near full completion at a media tour this past Monday, with only minor things such as sweeping the floors, finishing up the entrances and getting a few things put away left to be done.

The initial exhibit, Inside Out and From the Ground Up, was largely in place on the museums fourth floor, including an incredible Henrique Oliveira creation that appears as if it’s tearing down a connected wall, while also allowing you to glance inside its structure.

Piece by artist Henrique Oliveira

The paintings by Jacqueline Humphries were impressive as well, their location just opposite the windows on the museum’s top floor allowing for striking interaction between the natural light and metallic, shiny composition of the pieces.

Pieces by artist Jacqueline Humphries

But ultimately, it is two aspects of the museum’s structure that figure to have people buzzing early on. The alternative/fire staircase (which the building was required to have) is actually built into and within the main staircase, giving it a hidden and confined quality. Enclosed all the way through, from top to bottom, the stairway and surrounding walls are painted a bright and vibrant yellow, giving you the feeling of navigating a winding maze inside of a giant lemon.

The building’s exterior, designed by architect Farshid Moussavi, is likely to illicit discussion as well. The smooth, reflective black glass of the exterior starts as hexagon at the base and expands towards the sky to a square roof. The veiled loading dock and blended entrances, not to mention it’s location at the corner of Euclid Avenue and Mayfield Road leaving it exposed on all sides, gives the structure what executive director Jill Snyder describes as a “James Bond, seamless quality.”

The new MOCA building

For an in-depth, behind-the-scenes look at everything the museum has to offer, be sure to pick up our October Best of Cleveland issue containing our MOCA feature package, or check out the piece online. Those involved are hoping the sleek and contemporary vibe of the building and neighborhood will help to attract visitors and reinvigorate the art scene. And if you’re going for cool, James Bond isn’t a bad place to start.

Uptown development opens with ribbon-cutting spectacle

As rush hour traffic bustled down Euclid last night, a man and woman clad from head to toe in blue spandex danced in fluid, slow motions atop black pedestals. They marked the entrance to the dedication and grand opening of a new home for restaurants and shops in University Circle, Uptown and Toby’s Plaza at Case Western Reserve University. In blue sweaters, suits and even berets, supporters of the project flowed into the event. Inside, blue lasers danced across the ceiling as servers circulated with neon blue beverages and hors d'oeuvres.

Amidst party-goers was Alan Glazen, part owner of ABC the Tavern in Ohio City and the new ABC in Uptown. “We’re neighborhood people," he said of himself and his partners. "We think this is a fine neighborhood and we want to serve the people in it.”

Major drivers of the development sat on a stage at the front of the tent. Among those were Ari Maron of MRN Ltd; CWRU president Barbara Snyder; Toby Devan Lewis, previous curator of Progressive Corporation's art collection and the plaza's namesake.

Mayor Frank Jackson put the excitement and work of those around him into words. “The best plan is the one you’re doing," he said. "Anything else is just a good conversation. Cleveland is in the process of executing plans, not just talking about them.”

After words from several others came the cutting of the ribbon. Two dancers from MorrisonDance who had previously welcomed guests took the stage, stood near each other and then slowly twirled apart, one dancer unwinding the ribbon from the waist of the other.  Several cuts later, fireworks boomed and the plaza was opened to the public for free samples and fun.

Through one of the many glass walls in the new Museum of Contemporary Art building, which opens next weekend, staff could be seen shelving items for display. Synthetic fireflies glowed in the trees of the plaza as the public enjoyed free samples from the plaza’s vendors. While the people who had dreamed of this were inside the tent, their collective visions came to life outside.

Things are Heating Up for Accent

I had lunch last Friday at a private, one time only pop-up along with my husband Barney and the Taxel Image Group crew. We were at Ace Fixtures on E. 61st Street and our hosts were Scott Kim and Michael Lyons. The occasion was a thank you for super-effort my husband and his team put into making photographs for Accent, the University Circle restaurant the pair are opening sometime in September, now up on the newly launched website.

It was also a chance for the Kim, who owns SASA Japanese Bistro on Shaker Square, and Lyons to continue experimenting with the Robata Grill and the Josper Oven. These two pieces of equipment will be the focal point of Accent’s kitchen and menu. They burn special low smoke hardwood charcoal, can be used indoors and get up to 1000 degrees. This intense high-heat dramatically changes the cooking process and the two chefs admit they are still learning about its potential…and problems. “This is our fourth practice run,” Mike told me. “The first time we crashed and burned, literally.” “We didn’t really understand the incredible power we had at our fingertips,” Scott adds.

We were the first “outsiders” to get a look at the three tiered grill and the ceramic lined oven, and to taste what they can do. It was quite a feast (with a sound track provided by guys at work and the hum of a motorized forklift). There were grilled Korean short ribs, steaks, mackerel fillets, green and yellow squash slices (plus an amazing sauce made with grilled tomatoes and red onions); roasted fingerlings, Brussels sprouts, corn brushed with a cilantro butter, chicken flavored with a spicy Asian bbq sauce, and Portobello mushroom caps stuffed with lamb (they’ve perfected a vegan version of this dish using tofu). The speed at which all this cooked was astonishing. But even more astounding was the texture and taste: vegetables browned and caramelized without being soft, watery or over cooked; meats, poultry and fish were lush, displaying that appealing combination of moist and juicy flesh beneath a crispy seared exterior.

These are the kinds of things they’ll be serving at Accent so my experience- without the warehouse ambiance- can be yours, soon. Scott believes Accent will be the first, and only restaurant in the country to have both the Robata Grill and Josper Oven. From my initial encounter I’d say they provide a powerful motivation to give this new place a try when it opens. Factor in the talents of Kim and Lyons, the fantastic location in the emerging Uptown development, and –based on the architects’’ renderings that I’ve seen- the fabulous setting this promises to be one of the most exciting places in Cleveland to eat.

photos by Barney Taxel

The ACCENT is on Euclid ... Or Will Be Soon

The good news just keeps on coming. Scott Kim, chef and owner of SASA on Shaker Square, called me last week to say that he and his wife, Brenda, have signed the lease for a second restaurant in University Circle. The building, part of the Uptown Development on Euclid Avenue at Mayfield, is still under construction, so it’s hard to pinpoint an exact opening date, but they’re hoping for late spring. I’ll keep you posted.

The Kims' restaurant will occupy the space adjacent to the Cleveland Institute of Art. Jonathon Sawyer, of Greenhouse Tavern and Noodlecat fame, has taken the opposite corner by MOCA. He’s keeping mum on his concept for it but had this to say: “I’m super excited to be neighbors with Scott. It’s going to be great.”

Kim, however, was more than ready to share. It is going to be a big place, about 300 seats inside and out, with a spacious bar the couple hopes will become a favorite happy hour gathering spot. The architect, Stanley Saitowitz, is designing a two-part interior: a playful lively lounge side with communal seating to encourage socializing and a quieter, more tranquil dining area.

The menu will be pan-Asian, reflecting Kim’s Korean heritage, his well-established expertise in Japanese cuisine, and his enthusiasm for Chinese and Thai food. But the talented chef doesn’t plan to let himself get boxed in by tradition or the quest to be authentic. The idea is to create original dishes that are inspired by this mix of styles and ingredients. The open kitchen will be outfitted with a high-tech version of robatayaki, popular in Japan, for charcoal grilling. Sushi won’t be available regularly, but he may offer some very unusual and original specials one night a week.

After wrestling long and hard with the question of what to call the restaurant, Scott settled on the name Accent. “I was inspired by the idea that we all come from someplace and everyone has their own way of speaking,” he explains. “The idea is that here, all people can come together, feel welcome, and get a better understanding of the food from these four different countries."

This is definitely going to be exciting for them ... and the rest of us!

Whoopee for Le Oui Oui

I’m so excited. Denajua, the original queen of Cleveland crepes, is back from Paris and back in business. The new incarnation of Le Oui Oui Crepe Café- there have been two other versions in Ohio City, both long gone - is now in University Circle (11309 Euclid Avenue, 216-231-2800). And that means I can once again enjoy her wonderful savory and sweet French pancakes.

I made my first foray on Monday. The place had been open just three weeks and two days. Had a great catch up chat with Denajua (she’s a one name phenomenon like Madonna or Prince) and sampled a crepe, made from her own scratch batter, that was filled with moist chunks of chicken and sharp chedder cheese set off with a smear of fruity chutney. Every bite was perfect. Next time it’ll be ham and double crème Brie. Or maybe one with chevre, spinach and tomato. She plans to add individual gratinees (quiche but more crème fraiche than eggs) to her menu soon, further complicating my choices. Then there’s dessert to consider- and some more tough decisions- the Nutella crepe (already very popular I hear with CWRU students) or the version made with apricot preserves and sliced almonds.

This is not a real restaurant per se. Orders are placed at the counter. Dishes and utensils are disposable. Much of the food is packed to go. But there are tables and chairs for eating in. The Cafe is part of a mini food court dubbed World Market. Still a work in progress, plans for the space include a sushi stand and a deli. The Galindo family, which runs Luchita Express in an adjoining room, is the landlord. A former costume designer and street performer with a flair for the fabulous, Denajua managed to create a little atmosphere with an old curved wooden bar, a miniature old-timey street lamp, the well-dressed rooster pictured here, and the requisite model of the Eiffel Tower on the wall.

She gave her helper instructions in French and called out Au ‘voir to her customers when they left. Her voice has a distinctive sexy growl, and a timbre that suggests too many Gauloises and late nights. I sat on my stool in the window, taking it all in along with forkfuls of a warm soft buttery crepe, and for a moment Cleveland on the Cuyahoga seemed like a kissing cousin to Paris on the Seine.

Le Oui Oui Crepe Café has no website site yet but there is Facebook page.

Branding "a nameless space into a nameable place"

In design school, there was always a group of hardcore designers that believed that good design could save the world. I am not as philosophical as my classmates, but as an art director, I am encouraged that design is playing an important role in bringing people to Cleveland.

Just 5 miles east of downtown a logo has given a circle a name. University Circle Inc. rebranded itself early last year. This new look gave the dozens of institutions and museums a face people could recognize and be proud of.

Print Magazine talked with UCI's in-house designer Bryan Evans and Epstein Design partner John Okal in this month's February issue. Evans says, "We're imprinting the idea of a place on the physical landscape."

This idea is evident by the numberous banners and signs that line every street of the Circle. Even their logo expresses this idea. The stripes in the logo represent culture, education and health care. Okal tells Print that "the logo reflects its (UCI's) vibrancy."


COMING UP > The University Circle Calendar of Events will be included in the April issue of Cleveland Magazine for all the things to do and see in the Circle this spring.

Smart Investing

Money’s tight these days for many people and I definitely count myself a member of that penny pinching group. But I’ve decided that this is no reason to go on a complete starvation diet when it comes to fun. Having a good meal, prepared, served, and cleaned up by people other than me, and enjoyed with family or friends plus something fermented or distilled, is a favorite way to play. Perhaps that’s because I’m still in recovery from cooking nightly for three sons- now grown and capable of fending for themselves- and a husband, all big guys with big appetites. No matter how often I do it, eating in a restaurant feels out of the ordinary, lifts me up and out of the day’s problems, and goes a long way towards turning any evening into an occasion.

One of the places that delivers a lot of pleasure for a small investment is Sergio’s in University Circle. The menu once leaned heavily towards Brazilian fare, but now has a Mediterranean bent. I come here to do what I think of as table traveling. Chef Ryan Alabaugh runs the kitchen and he’s made it his mission to source the best, most authentic imported products that really ramp up the flavor of everything he offers. I can go all Spanish by ordering a glass of garnet colored Tempranillo and tapas plates of chorizo sausage simmered in wine; scallops with Serrano ham in a zesty romesco sauce; crispy rodillo (artichokes and manchego cheese wrapped in more of that wonderful dry cured country ham); and a baked egg dish called huevos flamencos. Or do an Italian thing with an antipasto of Tuscan style Molinari pepperoni and salami, handmade pappardelle pasta in lemon pistachio pesto cream, and a bottle of Soave or Barbera.

And you never know what fantastic special the Chef and his crew will whip up. I once had the most amazing pheasant broth. Pictured here is chargrilled balsamic glazed beef tenderloin basilico"on a bed of mixed greens with feta. The selection of cheeses-served with fruit, nuts, and other tasty tidbits and condiments- is always changing and always spectacular. So yes- I am trying to spend carefully. But there’s no doubt in my mind that these relatively modest culinary indulgences are a good investment. After all, dining out makes for happy times and nice memories that are guaranteed not to lose value. And I can’t say the same for my house or my 401K

Euclid Ave. is open

At last, Euclid Avenue is open again, all the way from University Circle to downtown. I took it to work today for my first look at the all-but-finished Euclid Corridor project.

The street looks completely different from the wide, empty, forlorn, tired road of a couple years ago. One lane of car traffic in each direction weaves between a bike lane, left-turn lanes, bus lanes, medians with bus stops. It all looks sleek and silvery. Even the industrial no-man's land just east of E. 55th is spruced up a little, with a banner mural and a new wood fence decorating a derelict building.

We'll see if the $168 million cost was worth it: if businesses do redevelop along the new streetscape, if the electric buses and faster bus commute attract more riders who use it as a link between downtown and the hospitals. Also, some bugs have to be worked out (such as better signs for left turns at intersections such as E. 55th -- I got stuck behind a guy who didn't figure this out.)

But as a driving experience, I like the new Euclid Avenue. Our long-barren Main Street looks attractive and cosmopolitan again. My 12-minute drive, from Mayfield to E. 14th, showed off some of the city at its best, from the fountain-filled plaza between the new Cleveland Clinic buildings to the straight-on view of the downtown skyline, opening like towering gates at Playhouse Square.