Taste of the Past

photo by Barney Taxel

Cleveland has become quite the ice cream town. There's Honey Hut, Mitchells and a few new players on the frozen scene I've blogged about — among them Sweetie Fry in Cleveland Heights and Mason's Creamery. But only a handful of shops offer places to sit and savor the sweets indoors. One of my favorite such places is Sweet Moses on Detroit Road in the Gordon Square Arts District.

The shop recreates ice cream parlors of the past. The double storefront space contains a candy case; marble counter lined with tall, round stools; wood polished to a high shine; gleaming silver spigots; round tables surrounded by vintage wrought iron chairs; and a restored work-of-art cash register. The behind-the-counter servers wear white shirts and aprons, and the menu includes classic sundaes made with house-churned flavors and real whipped cream, milk shakes, malts, pies and popcorn. It's hot fudge heaven with a cherry on top.

There used to be more places like this across town, typically inside a pharmacy. Why? That's an interesting tidbit of food history. Allow me to indulge my culinary geekiness for a few sentences. In late 1800s and early 1900s, mixing carbonated mineral water with sweetened flavored syrups was a common way to mask the taste of liquid medicines and render them palatable. By 1911, there were more than 100,000 such "soda fountains" around the country. The fizzy drinks, sans quinine, iron and other "drugs," were incredibly popular with young and old alike, offering an alternative hang out to the corner saloon. Soda jerk became a job title.

photo by Barney Taxel

You can't buy liniment or tooth powder at Sweet Moses, but you can get a traditional phosphate. I was in there recently with my family and had one of the chilled bubbly drinks with a slightly tart, acidic tang. There are 18 syrups to chose from (mostly fruit flavored, but the shop also offers others such as ginger and cinnamon). I went with peach and it was wonderful and refreshing — all the things I like about soda without any of the cloying sweetness that I hate. Just the thing to clear the palate after consuming a tall glass of Salted French Caramel ice cream, an outstanding new addition to the shop's line-up, topped with salted pistachios and pecans. It was a grand way to get out of the heat, while away an hour and slip back in time. The long line snaking past our table suggested others feel the same.

Cool News

There are enough new places to get a scoop or three that I thought the subject warranted a round-up. I’m listing them here with a few descriptive and informative details. I’ve visited some but not all of them. Since this isn’t a review, that shouldn’t matter. Besides, when it comes to ice cream and gelato, individual tastes and preferences rule. I say indulge in what you love. That’s what I do. And given how serious and dedicated each of these dessert entrepreneurs is, I feel confident that every spot on the list is worth at least a try and likely multiple visits. If you’ve been, tell the rest of us what you got and what you liked. The information (here, and from those who add their comments) is sure to make the last few weeks of summer extra sweet.
photo by Barney Taxel, Taxel Image Group

-Ohio City Ice Cream Company (formerly Dari Delite), mentioned in the July issue of Cleveland Magazine, is in its second season. People have been walking up to the window at this stand for more than 50 years. You can still get a swirl of regular vanilla soft serve but since Bob Mino and his wife Nancy took over, things have gotten noticeably more creative. They’re making egg custards; exotic fruit sorbets; and dense, rich ice cream, liberally studded with goodies such as chocolate covered pretzels, candied kiwi, dried strawberries and bits of baklava. The ricotta fig, fruit soaked in Gewurtztraminer, is pure genius. West 44th Street and Bridge

-Sweet Moses is a recreation of an old-fashioned soda fountain in the Gordon Square Arts District complete with restored wrought-iron chairs and a marble counter. The ice cream for sundaes, scoops, cones, floats, shakes, malts and phosphates is churned in-house. The waffle cones and hot fudge sauce come out of the same kitchen. Hand-packed pints are available for take-home. 6800 Detroit Ave.

-Rosso Gelato brings the look and taste of Italy to Rocky River. A modern minimalist interior is the backdrop for Charles Bartell’s traditional northern style gelato. The cooler usually holds a dozen different flavors. Crowd favorites are salted caramel, stracciatella (vanilla cream with ribbons of chocolate) and chocolate hazelnut. He also makes twelvee water-based, dairy free sorbettos. The most popular are nero (chocolate) and four-berry fruit of the forest. Staff will blast-freeze your pints, so they arrive home in perfect condition. It takes twenty minutes, so call ahead or be willing to wait. 19056 Old Detroit Road, Rocky River photo courtesy of Nancy Bartell

-The Sweet Spot, across from the Beck Center, describes itself as an American gelateria with a twist. Owner Celeste Blau kicked off her first season in July. She’s using Ohio milk, local seasonal fruit when she can get it, and mostly organic and natural ingredients. The Lineup includes some out-of-the-ordinary flavors like carrot cake, smoked s'mores and chocolate mint cayenne. 17806 Detroit Ave., Lakewood

-Lilly Handmade Chocolates is now making small-batch ice creams and sorbets, changing flavors, Amanda Montague tells me, as often as she changes her hair color. She and husband Josh expanded into the space next door this year, so you can sit down for dessert. Among the more unique options are beer floats and a "Choc-cuterie Board," a spread of sugared and decadent mousses, "pates," ganaches and frozen confections. 761 Starkweather Ave.

-Jeni’s, dipping and waffle cone stacking since April, this is an outpost of the Columbus-based company known for using Ohio cream and making a rich, super-premium product. Flavors take you on a trip around the world and into territory where ice cream has never gone before: Bangkok Peanut, Ugandan Vanilla Bean, Sweet Corn and Black Raspberries, and Goat Cheese with Red Cherries. Tables inside. 67 N. Main St., Chagrin Falls

Bass drums, burgers and bands at Rock Hall's Chef Jam

Burgers were served up on bass drums, vegetarian sushi lined the polished face of a cymbal and a Beatles tribute band belted out "She Loves You" to the dancing crowd. From barbecued duck to fried Twinkies, the Rock Hall's Chef Jam 2011 indulged in the delicacies of Cleveland's best chefs.

Donning wigs, face paint and outfits from generations past, various chefs from Cleveland restaurants dressed up as their favorite musicians. My favorite costume: Melt Bar and Grilled's Matt Fish as Eric Singer of KISS (pictured).

However, I was a little disappointed that Melt was not passing out their famous grilled cheese sandwiches, but fried Twinkies instead. (Twinkies, really?)

For me, Sweet Moses' vanilla bean ice cream, drizzled in bourbon caramel sauce, topped all the dishes in the Rock Hall. Hearing someone list off the soda fountain and treat shop's ten different homemade ice cream flavors was music to my taste buds.

Also present were chefs from B Spot, Deagan's, Pier W, Melange, Greenhouse Tavern and others, including Food Network star Anne Burrell, host of Secrets of a Restaurant Chef, and one very close to naked cowboy from Naked Cowboy Oyster. Proceeds from the charity event supported Ohio City Farm and the Rock Hall's education programs.