King of the (Bar Food) Jungle

Motivated by a combination of three things – proximity, hunger, and the buzz about this unusual spot – four of us decided to do a spontaneous drop-in at the Lion on Lorain.

Here’s what we knew: it was on the west side, (127th and Lorain Road), and so were we; it was open (on a Sunday); we craved bar food and had heard that what they did here was way better than average; we didn’t have to dress up and wouldn’t spend a lot of money which was exactly the kind of evening out this group had in mind. What we found was even better than what we expected and guaranteed that we’d all be returning, soon and often.

Jason Wagner took over the former shot and beer venue after it had been shuttered for four years and reopened it last July. The place defies categories and cannot be easily pigeonholed. Is it a watering hole for sports fans, a bikers welcome hang out, a neighborhood tavern or a gastropub? It is no one of these but a bit of all of them, a surprising and welcoming hybrid with a nothing-fancy look, paper lined plastic baskets instead of china, and a kick ass menu of stuffed and stacked sandwiches, inventive burgers and dogs, tacos, and fried potatoes at prices that were astonishing for the quality and quantity.

We started off with some trikes, three smoked rib bones and sauce, and a basket of onion rings to share, both delicious, plus beers— the selection’s outstanding and full of interesting craft brews. We agonized over what versions of meat-in-bread to order because just about everyone was appealing. Final choices were:
- The Mississippi, a smoked and barbequed pork panini with cheese sauce and a fried egg
-The Irishman, a burger with smoked corned beef, crispy potato, cole slaw and Swiss cheese
-The Cuban, slow roasted pork loin, ham Swiss, pickles, bacon, house mustard
-The West Park, the corned beef and crispy potato with jalapeno slaw, Swiss, and fried egg

These are mostly big, man vs. food sized monsters requiring two hands and some mouth stretching to get a full top to bottom bite. And they are so so good. Wagner deserves the credit for coming up with these crazy combos. But they’re even better because he recently partnered up with Walter Hyde and Scott Slagle, the guys from Fat Casual BBQ in Macedonia(much as management at ROC Bar did- I wrote about that in May. These two do the slow cooking and smoking out there and haul their most excellent meat into town. Hyde’s two sons, Ryan and Devin are now manning the Lion kitchen so the two independent businesses have become, according to Wagner, one big and very happy family.

I’d been told the sweet potato tots were not to be missed. Sadly, they were out of them by the time we arrived. I was planning to get them next time but Jason told me they’ll likely be gone. “When we started with that idea nobody around here was doing anything like them. Now they’re everywhere so I have to dream up something really new and different.” No doubt he will.

Update. Just found out three things: The Lion's now serving Sunday brunch; they're throwing themselves a one year anniversary party, with live music, July 19; and Wagner just got word that an executive producer with the Travel Channel is planning to stop by in August.

Meat Up in the Flats

I haven’t found myself on the East Bank of the Flats in quite a while. But the promise of some amazing food had me driving down the steep hill that is W. St. Clair and onto Old River Road last Wednesday afternoon. Roc Bar, a six year old music venue and as of now the only operating entertainment venue on this stretch, has partnered with the Walter Hyde and Scott Slagle, the guys behind Fat Casual BBQ out in Macedonia, and from now until the fall you can reinvent lunch and dinner with some seriously delicious smoked meats and poultry.

I’d been hearing about the great food these two were making for the past year and am embarrassed to admit I just hadn’t set aside time to do the 46 mile round trip yet. So I was pretty pleased when I learned that I didn’t have to. This is a trial run to gauge interest. If the response is good, the arrangement could become permanent.

Roc Bar doesn’t have much of a kitchen. Put one cook in it and the little room's crowded. Equipment is limited, though Walter does hope to fire-up an outdoor grill during the summer. So for now at least only a selection of items from the Macedonia menu are available. The beef, pork, and chicken get their hard wood smoke on out there and are driven in, along with all the house made sauces and sides. Final prep is done to order.

Seating inside and out is limited. They expect much of the food will be ordered for take-out. But when I showed up the sun was shining, the temperature was mild, and my spot on the deck was a perfect place for a finger licking, sauce dripping, three napkin feast. My tour d’taste, courtesy of Walter, included a slab of ribs, slices of Texas brisket, a pile of Carolina style vinegared pulled pork, and samples of smoked chicken salad, mac & cheese, and chili. It was all fantastic, the spicing was spot on. These dishes were clearly the work of people who pursue flavor with a passion and know a thing or two about what it takes the rule the pit.

The presentation is uber casual, featuring disposable utensils and dishware. But what’s being served is prepared with all the care and finesse of an upscale restaurant. So I thought it was funny when two young man-you know the type, t-shirts, baseball caps on backwards, shades at the back of neck- at the next table weighed in loudly with their personal “review.” Taking in the scene-the river view, blue sky, and swooping seagulls- and the frosty beers and huge sandwiches in front of them, one says to the other, “Dude, now this is what I call FINE dining.” His buddy, who already had his mouth wrapped around that loaded bun, could only nod in agreement.